Dash Switch Question

[bowt1ed]

So as I'm planning out my dash, wondering how I can maintain the style of the chromed original switch knobs while updating the actual controlling switches (i.e. lights, wipers). I will likely maintain "dummy" choke and throttle knobs and also looking at one of the retro appearing new radios. Anyone care to share what they have done?

Cheers, Jim

[Stepside Jim]

I also wanted to maintain the original chrome knobs while changing some of the switches.

My way may be more difficult than others but what I did was ordered (1955-59) Wiper Knob-Chrome #29-111 from Classic parts. The center hole was around 5/16", I was able to thread it to 5/16" fine tread. With this size I was able to make a threaded bushing to fit this knob and fit the smaller thread of the couple of switches I purchased.

I also used this bezel #30-111. It has a 3/8" fine thread that seemed to fit the mounting threads of the switches I used.

By using these parts I was able achieve the clean original look I was looking for.

Good luck, Jim

[bowt1ed]

Thanks Jim. Got any pics of your dash handy?

[OrrieG]

I made three changes to my layout. I wanted to keep the stock layout of knobs, etc. I prefer the black to chrome. Radio is going under the seat so will have a radio plate and black knob blank outs. I put a small LED light bezel in the ignition switch hole (my switch is on column) see post 827 in my build thread. I modified the manual choke to run a momentary on pull switch for the wiper fluid motor (see post 845 in my build thread). I also got a 70's postal jeep light switch (simple dash mount off and two positions for on) to run future back up/bed lights, it went in the manual throttle hole, I think the stock knob fit the shaft using the set screw.

[bowt1ed]

So to clarify, my original light switch was pretty much toast - make that definitely toast. As I recall, I could control everything I needed from the original (back when it did work), i.e. parking lamps, lights, dome, and I believe dash dim (?). Is it wise to look for an aftermarket (or updated) switch, and rework to accept the original knob for these same functions or just purchase a new original one? I can't think of any other functions that a newer switch would offer than the original. Differences if I go halogen, etc.?

Thanks, Jim

[Russell Ashley]

If you are using the original style light switch you can buy the chrome knob with the shaft made on to it. You can buy a cigar lighter with the chrome knob, and you can also buy the vent cables with chrome knobs. The radio will come with chrome knobs if you purchase the one that fits the original dash opening. I only had to buy three chrome knobs with the set screw, one for my wipers, one for an emergency flasher switch that I installed, and an extra that I will use for something in that empty hole. I also used a 57 car ignition switch for a little different look and more chrome.

If you use an original style light switch plan on wiring in a relay for your halogens. I tried it without a relay but the bi-metal strip on the switch wasn't capable of running the brights.

[OrrieG]

I installed relays for the head lights and dome/added courtesy lights to take the load off the stock switch and brighten up the output. The stock switch is still available thru NAPA at cheaper price than the "classic" suppliers. I think its a Standard or Echlin brand.

[Stepside Jim]

bowt1ed, collectively with all the responses with Russell and OrrieG there is good information.

Russell did a good job on where the original chrome knobs will be already. I also used original vent cables, headlight switch and cigarette lighter. I also used an after market radio made to specifications, fit perfect and came with chrome knobs.

I know Russell is assisting his headlight switch with a relay, OrrieG mentioned it also and so do I. It should get us past the high amperage issues with the original switch usage.

I also am using a manual choke, I simply ordered the cable with chrome knob, done.

My aftermarket windshield motor cam with a proper slotted switch that I was able to use a chrome knob with the allen head set screw.

Last are two switches that I used NAPA push pull switches. One is a master switch for my toys (exhaust cutouts, line lock brake solenoid, ect).

My after market heater has a variable speed switch, it doesn't go well with the dash though. Here I also used a NAPA push pull/on/off switch. I will mount the variable speed switch under the dash mounted to the heater box. The push pull switch will power the variable speed switch. I figure I won't use the heater much, so this should work fine.

The bezel nuts I mentioned give a clean look. It was the push pull switches that I had to make the threaded adapters for the chrome knobs to fit.

So many choices, good luck bowt1ed, Jim

[OrrieG]

The chrome looks nice against the black, deep reds, etc. I stayed with the black because I think chrome get lost againsr the Pewter color I used. Really like the red stripe, sets off the unique dash configuration these have.

[bowt1ed]

Thanks much for all the info guys! Lots to go on here. Cheers, Jim

[Russell Ashley]

Those chrome knobs really pop against that black dash.

[Stepside Jim]

Thanks for the compliments.

Truth be told I struggled with dash colors for months. As you know, the truck is two tone Black and Silver.

The common thing to do would have been to paint the lower section of the dash silver to match the outside.

First issue was.... as OrrieG mentioned, the chrome would have blended with the silver too much and not "popped" as they do now.

The silver looks like gray without sunlight shinning on it, with it being inside the cab and I tinted the windows, I didn't want a gray looking lower dash.

I didn't want a solid black dash, so one red pinstripe was the answer.

Thanks again, Jim