Can We Remount Stock Spring Hangers To Lower Truck?

[Gregski]

Considering lowering the '74 GMC 1/2 ton 2WD next month and not feeling the LMC Truck $150 bucks price tag for their spring hangers.

The goal is 2" drop in the front (via shorter springs) and a complementary 4" drop in the rear with new shackles and spring hangers, new shorter shocks all around, etc.

Since we need to cut off the rivets to get the factory spring hangers off, why can't we just drill some new holes in the frame and re mount them higher using some grade 8 bolts? It seems to me like there is room to move them up 2" easy?

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Considering lowering the '74 GMC 1/2 ton 2WD next month and not feeling the LMC Truck $150 bucks price tag for their spring hangers.

The goal is 2" drop in the front (via shorter springs) and a complementary 4" drop in the rear with new shackles and spring hangers, new shorter shocks all around, etc.

Since we need to cut off the rivets to get the factory spring hangers off, why can't we just drill some new holes in the frame and re mount them higher using some grade 8 bolts? It seems to me like there is room to move them up 2" easy?

When I get around to it that was my plan to drill out the rivets and remount the hangers up a couple of inches.

[Slammed84]

I dont see why you couldn't as long as there is room to without hitting the bed. Just make sure you get both sides the same or else youll have a mean gangsta lean...

[Keith Seymore]

Absolutely. I've done a dozen or so that way over the last 30 years.

For the rear spring hanger if you put the bottom hole of the hanger (what was) the top hole on the frame - that will be three inches. You will, however, need to add some support for the bottom of the hanger, which I do by shooting the spring shackle eye bolt all the way through the rail (with an appropriate length spacer).

The front hanger will need to come straight up even though the hanger is in a "V"configuration. Be careful here because any error fore/aft can result in a skewed rear axle and dogtracking.

K

[Keith Seymore]

Most of you may already know I followed my truck down the assembly line as it was being built.

I knew that a 3/8" grade 8 bolt was the factory repair for a miss hit or missing rivet; since I knew I was going to be lowering my truck by relocating the hangers I asked the guys on the line if they would use all bolts to put the hangers on.

They wouldn't do it....so I had to cut the rivets just like every time before.

I cussed 'em out with each rivet that I knocked loose.

K

[Katrina/10]

I'll bet you did!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Absolutely. I've done a dozen or so that way over the last 30 years.

For the rear spring hanger if you put the bottom hole of the hanger (what was) the top hole on the frame - that will be three inches. You will, however, need to add some support for the bottom of the hanger, which I do by shooting the spring shackle eye bolt all the way through the rail (with an appropriate length spacer).

The front hanger will need to come straight up even though the hanger is in a "V"configuration. Be careful here because any error fore/aft can result in a skewed rear axle and dogtracking.

K

Wow, Keith thank you so much, not only did you explain it well and show pics, but it's you man, The Factoryman, what a great resource you are, and I didn't even think of mounting the shackles higher, so thanks for the spacer tip

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

... I asked the guys on the line if they would use all bolts to put the hangers on.

They wouldn't do it....

Wow, sounds like you had as much pull as me at my job after 20 years, lol, good to see not much as changed in companies over the last quarter century (they don't listen to you but then come to you to fix it)

[bL.A.zer90045]

so this with a axle flip and say 3 leaves will net what?

[J Knight]

Originally Posted by bL.A.zer90045

so this with a axle flip and say 3 leaves will net what?

About 8in.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

On Ford F100's it is a common trick to flip the mount.

Be sure to use grade 8 hardware with lock washers, and nuts.

[87chevy.com]

if you want a factory lowering hanger... I recommend the solution I found while scouring the bone yard... ever found a lowering spring hanger for a suburban... that's cause there isn't one
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...8&postcount=97

[bL.A.zer90045]

^^^so with the suburban shackles do they mount in the c10 factory spots/position? is your truck posted in the pic running the springs above the axle,or with an axle flip?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by bL.A.zer90045

^^^so with the suburban shackles do they mount in the c10 factory spots/position? is your truck posted in the pic running the springs above the axle,or with an axle flip?

On his page Clint says "They dont bolt in, but you can use one of the factory holes, and drill the rest and add 3/8 grade 8 hardware."

My question is are they rivitted in on the 'Burbans or bolted on, I can't see myself grinding off rivets at Pick N Pull with a cordless angle grinder, so I'm hoping for bolts.

[87chevy.com]

nope they are riveted... its easy to cut off rivets. maybe 1-2 minutes of grinding per rivet plus a good metal chisel. all you need to do is cut an X on the head and knock off the remaining bits.. once that X is cut.. its relatively easy.
clint

[bL.A.zer90045]

^^^axle flip or no axle flip?