Miss Daisy's RESTO

[nmeyer414]

I would like to start off by saying hello and I look forward to the knowledge you all have to offer.

I picked up a 78 K20 Camper Special about 3 weeks ago from a guy in ABQ. I have since got a few issues sorted out and have parts a plenty sitting in a squat hold position (yeah I am a combat arms guy about to retire from the US Army, so forgive some of the terms I use). all in all this thing is actually pretty clean for a 36 year old truck (3 tiny areas of surface cancer) and only a few minor issues.

my wife was the one that said she wanted to get out of her KIA and into a real vehicle. and I did not have a choice in what she named her as well as the plates.

here are a few pics of what she looks like.

[nmeyer414]

so here is what I am working with.

78 K20 Camper Special

dana 44 front

gm 14 bolt FF rear

NP 203-i do know that this has the chevy conversion done to it and not the dodge one

TB350 transmission-one of the PO's put a B&M deep pan on it

350 engine with a edelbrock 600cfm

the AC has been ripped out of it by a PO because the compressor bracket broke (it will get reinstalled)

it still has the 16.5 rims and tires

the RPO sheet in the glove box is almost perfect and intact.

issues:
the wiring is a pile of spilt fuuuck and its looking like I will have to put a complete new harness in

the speedometer is bouncing all over the place

no dash lights

the steering column has been destroyed and will have to be completely replace or rebuilt

the wipers don't work

the climate control panel does not work at all

I will have to figure out the gear ratio this weekend when I renew the entire rear axle

[flashed]

Welcome and what a nice one you found ,very few survived here .

[nmeyer414]

now here is the issue that I am having.

my speedometer is bouncing pretty darn good when I am driving down the road (as in not accurate at all). I took the speedometer cable off the back of the x-case and hooked it to my drill, gave it a little power and it is reading in the cab on the speedometer itself. it was some what constant and no where near the bounce as when its hooked up.

[nmeyer414]

I then took the speedometer holding nut (whatever its called) off, and pulled out the speedometer gear and this is what it all looks like.

as far as I can tell, it was a little dirty where the cable connects to the gear but nothing looked like it was getting chewed up? I guess the only way I will be able to see what the actual gear looks like in the case is to take it apart, not something I really want to do just yet.

[nmeyer414]

can somebody help me out here on whatever it is that I am missing, and maybe point me in the right direction. is the cable bad? is the odometer/speedometer gauge bad?

[nmeyer414]

here is what I have done so far:

replaced hood hinges
replaced hood
new battery tray

within the next few weeks:

complete rear axle rejuvenation

complete front axle rejuvenation

complete rear brake job

complete front brake job

complete replacement of all the steering components minus the gear box and pump

new shocks all the way around

new steering damper

[nonstop]

Might suggest pulling the cable out of the housing and checking it for damage. Next, check the ends and their fitment into the drive gears. Finally, lube the whole cable up and slide it back into the housing.

[Titomars]

A bouncing needle is always a cable core dragging. As it drags the spring core jumps as it frees from the drag. Which is generally lack of lube or a damaged casing. The correct lube for a speedo cable is graphite lube. Only use a very light amount.

[68Timber]

I haven't replaced one in a while, but they used to be cheap.

[nmeyer414]

ill bet yah this is why the speedometer is bouncing around?!

[nmeyer414]

time to go get a new one for $13.00 and see if that fix's the issue.

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by nmeyer414

ill bet yah this is why the speedometer is bouncing around?!

That looks like you found the cause. Replace the cable and housing assembly you should be golden.

[nmeyer414]

once it dries here I will get it installed and report back with my findings

[y5mgisi]

Subscribed.

[nmeyer414]

well, I now have a working speedometer.

I have also discovered that I have a pile of spilt boo boo for wiring behind the dash bezel. as well as just about everything broken and will have to replace ALL of it

[tucsonjwt]

I would check the pick and pulls for an instrument panel and all of the wiring harnesses. Most of the old squares (when you can find one) have intact harnesses - but they are mostly 81 and up - I think you can make those work. Unless you have many $$$ to spend, I would avoid new wiring. Also, don't forget the obvious - e.g. when my wipers did not work it turned out to be a bad connector at the pump and motor. When my A/C control worked intermittently it was again a bad connector at the heater control. Used parts would always be my first choice, especially since you are willing to do the labor yourself. You can always take the parts back to the junkyard for store credit if they don't work.

[tucsonjwt]

Also, if you don't already have a supplier listing, I would stick with GM OEM and AC Delco if you can find it - the cost is often comparable to aftermarket when you buy from an OEM vendor online. Here is my list of OEM suppliers - all have been good for me. (LMC and Classic Parts are specialists in old square parts but they are all aftermarket, and the quality has not been very good in my experience - others here will disagree.)

www.oehq.com
www.oewarehouse.com
www.gmpartsdirect.com
www.davesauto.com
www.rockauto.com

Rock auto is good for getting a GM OEM part number - then search google, ebay, amazon for a good price.

oewarehouse and oehq have low minimum purchase amount for free shipping.

gmpartsdirect (Flow Chevrolet in NC) has the lowest prices but their shipping is very high - best if you are buying a lot of OEM parts at once.

If your local GM dealer(s) are willing to be helpful, they can look up old obsolete part numbers and search the GM database for which dealer might have the part you are looking for. Also, you can post your part request here and somebody can usually give you the GM part number.

For door pins, if you replace them, use OEM GM - still available from dealer. Search this forum and you will find a couple tutorials, including one I did with a tip on how to support the door during the process.

Good luck.

[nmeyer414]

thank you for the links, those will come in handy.

unfortunately, all of the pick n pull places here are void of older vehicles. they are all owned and operated by illegals and just about anything of values has gone across the border to Juarez or has been scrapped. because of this area being the way it is and the high crime rate, joe public is not allowed to walk that yards anymore. I am sure its not too different over there in Tucson.

[y5mgisi]

Classic after market gauge dash hack.

[77K10Silverado]

Sweet truck Nate! Good luck with the build and thanks for the post!!

[nmeyer414]

no problem mike

[tucsonjwt]

We only have 3 pick an pulls in Tucson. Only one is well kept and has good prices - that one has on online posting of vehicles, so if you check their website a couple times a week you can get some good parts before the truck goes to the crusher. Parts of value do go quickly but if you are diligent you can get some good items.

Phoenix pick and pulls have prices 2-4 times higher than Tucson - I don't know why. Vehicles only stay on the lots about 3-4 weeks before being crushed. Many old vehicles go to the crusher which are mostly intact and some with bodies in very good shape - rust free.