Front engine mount rubbers replacement - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Michel · 03-17-2015, 04:42 PM

Hi friends !

A friend of mine has just warn me to replace the front engine mounts rubbers as they are now starting to perish. I had not noticed until he shown me that the engine is no more secured tightly.
I have searched for replacement bushes (rubber) and found a set of them I need to order and wait for delivery, and I have studied the repair manual carefully. But, I have a doubt concerning the replacement steps as in the shop manual, they say to lift the engine enough to remove the bushes but it seems to me that I will need to lift the engine a lot and I am not sure that I have enought space to remove those bushes. More specially with the transmission.
Does anybody already replaced these bush as maintenance (as described in the shop manual) and can confirm me that it is possible.

Thank you again for all your help.

Michel

mr48chev · 03-17-2015, 06:38 PM

You should have mounts similar to these http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1955-57-...aa6e71&vxp=mtr that bolt to the front of the engine for the shaft with the bushings to go through. if you can't raise the engine high enough in front to clear you can unbolt those mounts from the engine and replace the pieces that need to be replaced.

OrrieG · 03-17-2015, 07:12 PM

You should probably loosen the rear bellhousing mounts to allow the engine to rotate upwards. Lifting from the top with a cherry picker or chain hoist, or bottom with a floor jack should get you enough clearance to R&R everything, there is lots of room under there. The car mounts are the same as truck and may be easier to find. Here is the FAM page on the mounts. Pay attention to the washer location and configuration.

_Ogre · 03-17-2015, 08:35 PM

these are after market versions of the front motor mounts
is this similar to what you have? this pic is actually the v8 version

the rubber donuts are available from classic parts for $60
as well as many other vendors

http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-...tinfo/79-011/#

mr48chev · 03-17-2015, 09:06 PM

That page you posted the link to in post 3 is worth a whole page of words.

It's not as hard a job as the instruction sheet makes it out to be.

Michel · 03-18-2015, 07:50 AM

Thank you all for your replies. I have just tried to unscrew the nuts. Succeed on the right side upper and lower, succeed on the left side lower but not on the upper side just under the dynamo. The nut is really tight. I will try again this evening. I just hope to don't destroy the stud...if I don't succeed, I will remove the bracket and work on the bench. Then order the parts, wait 10 to 15 days to receive them and reassembly...and drive again and again!
I didn't born on the right country pfff!

OrrieG · 03-18-2015, 12:28 PM

The bolts are fine thread and probably pretty crudded up and been painted over. I think the stock nuts might be self locking too which adds to the difficulty. Sometimes double nutting one end so the whole shafts acts like a bolt helps, you can wedge a wrench on the nut and apply more leverage to the other end...

qbeanie · 03-18-2015, 12:41 PM

Rock Auto has them at a very reasonable price.

Russell Ashley · 03-18-2015, 02:54 PM

There is a square part just under the top support where you can put a wrench to keep the rod from turning.

03-17-2015, 04:42 PM	#1
Michel Registered User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: France Posts: 63	Front engine mount rubbers replacement Hi friends ! A friend of mine has just warn me to replace the front engine mounts rubbers as they are now starting to perish. I had not noticed until he shown me that the engine is no more secured tightly. I have searched for replacement bushes (rubber) and found a set of them I need to order and wait for delivery, and I have studied the repair manual carefully. But, I have a doubt concerning the replacement steps as in the shop manual, they say to lift the engine enough to remove the bushes but it seems to me that I will need to lift the engine a lot and I am not sure that I have enought space to remove those bushes. More specially with the transmission. Does anybody already replaced these bush as maintenance (as described in the shop manual) and can confirm me that it is possible. Thank you again for all your help. Michel __________________ '55, Chevy 3600, 2nd serie, 3/4 ton, 235, 4 speed Muncie SM420, 4.57:1 rear axle

03-17-2015, 06:38 PM	#2
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,413	Re: Front engine mount rubbers replacement You should have mounts similar to these http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1955-57-...aa6e71&vxp=mtr that bolt to the front of the engine for the shaft with the bushings to go through. if you can't raise the engine high enough in front to clear you can unbolt those mounts from the engine and replace the pieces that need to be replaced. __________________ Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around.

03-17-2015, 08:35 PM	#4
_Ogre Registered User Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Motown Posts: 7,677	Re: Front engine mount rubbers replacement these are after market versions of the front motor mounts is this similar to what you have? this pic is actually the v8 version the rubber donuts are available from classic parts for $60 as well as many other vendors http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-...tinfo/79-011/# __________________ cool, an ogre smiley Ogre's 58 Truk build how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer

03-17-2015, 09:06 PM	#5
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,413	Re: Front engine mount rubbers replacement That page you posted the link to in post 3 is worth a whole page of words. It's not as hard a job as the instruction sheet makes it out to be. __________________ Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around.

03-18-2015, 07:50 AM	#6
Michel Registered User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: France Posts: 63	Re: Front engine mount rubbers replacement Thank you all for your replies. I have just tried to unscrew the nuts. Succeed on the right side upper and lower, succeed on the left side lower but not on the upper side just under the dynamo. The nut is really tight. I will try again this evening. I just hope to don't destroy the stud...if I don't succeed, I will remove the bracket and work on the bench. Then order the parts, wait 10 to 15 days to receive them and reassembly...and drive again and again! I didn't born on the right country pfff! __________________ '55, Chevy 3600, 2nd serie, 3/4 ton, 235, 4 speed Muncie SM420, 4.57:1 rear axle

03-18-2015, 12:28 PM	#7
OrrieG Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Idaho Posts: 8,800	Re: Front engine mount rubbers replacement The bolts are fine thread and probably pretty crudded up and been painted over. I think the stock nuts might be self locking too which adds to the difficulty. Sometimes double nutting one end so the whole shafts acts like a bolt helps, you can wedge a wrench on the nut and apply more leverage to the other end... __________________ 1959 Chevy Short Fleetside w/ 74 4WD drive train (current project) OrrieG Build Thread 1964 Chevelle Malibu w/ 355-350TH (daily driver) Helpful AD and TF Manual Site Old Car Manual Project

03-18-2015, 12:41 PM	#8
qbeanie Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Scottsdale, AZ Posts: 36	Re: Front engine mount rubbers replacement Rock Auto has them at a very reasonable price.

03-18-2015, 02:54 PM	#9
Russell Ashley Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lawrenceville, Ga Posts: 2,641	Re: Front engine mount rubbers replacement There is a square part just under the top support where you can put a wrench to keep the rod from turning.



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