Anybody ever drill a hole through a leaf spring pack?

[Richs'55]

I need to move my axle forward 2 inches. I am trying to get out of cutting 2 inches out of the frame.
I am thinking of just drilling a new hole for the spring pack bolt when I flip the rear axle for the lowering of the body. That would move the axle forward.

I know I would still have to shorten the drive shaft.

So, First, can a leaf spring be drilled easy enough?
Other than also changing the angle of the shocks, does anybody see an issue with this?

[Donaldo]

Yes the springs can be drilled through - sharp drill bit and lots of cutting oil, and a drillpress. The springs I've drilled were done 1 spring at a time for heavy duty trailers.

[Bad Apache]

I've drilled and moved a few over the years. Never 2" worth, but I don't see where that would be a problem. I used a sharp drill bit, a drill press and lots of cutting fluid. You could probably even leave the original bolt in place with the 2" offset. Kind of as an added support to the spring pack.
On the task force trucks the shocks are at a bad angle anyhow. So I'd recommend mounting them straight up and down to maximize the shocks efficiency.

[1project2many]

Yep. I cut & drilled out the leaves of a 90 Chevy half ton so I could use them on a Yota 4X4. And I've drilled spring steel to use it as an engine mount. A masonry bit in a good drill press turning at very slow speed with plenty of cutting oil works very well. Unfortunately my drill press doesn't go down to "very slow" speed (the minimum on my drill press is about 900 RPM) so I had to take breaks to let the spring and the bit cool.

[OrrieG]

Moving the spring pad 2" should give you clearance around the original bolt. Then you could just drill a few (2-3) of the springs for a pin to locate the pad. The axle/pad will be bolted tight enough to the springs to avoid any movement under normal driving. If anythings does happen to shear the pin or move the axle, it probably would take a full bolt off too.

[Richs'55]

Thanks guys, This makes it alot easier than cutting the frame. Also a lot cheaper than ordering custom springs with an offset bolt. Eaton wanted $690 for a pair of custom springs compared to a little over $200 for a stock set.

[budi9]

problems maybe exist on the drive shaft.

[Russell Ashley]

If you are going to flip the axle you will have to weld on new spring pads on the bottom of the axle tube. Couldn't you get two inches of movement just by drilling new holes in the spring pads on the axle instead of drilling the springs? Two inches will put the hole at about the rear of the axle tube and the U-bolts will be clamping it at that point. I have moved an axle one inch by doing it this way. You will definitely need driveshaft mods either way.

[Dan in Pasadena]

What about an odd change in the rebound rate of the spring since the axle would be eccentrically mounted? Meaning NOT on the apex of the spring pack. Wouldn't this be an issue?

[NorCalGal]

Try swapping the rear of the leaf spring to the front, sometimes you get lucky and the hole is offset in the right direction.

[Richs'55]

Sorry guys, but I didn't exactly tell you the whole story. The frame for this rebuild is from a 1981 C-10. So the springs and axle are not exactly what you guys are thinking.

Originally Posted by budi9

problems maybe exist on the drive shaft.

Driveshaft was going to be cut anyway and was planning on that.

Originally Posted by NorCalGal

Try swapping the rear of the leaf spring to the front, sometimes you get lucky and the hole is offset in the right direction.

Because of the '81 chassis, definitely not changing the springs to the front.

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

If you are going to flip the axle you will have to weld on new spring pads on the bottom of the axle tube. Couldn't you get two inches of movement just by drilling new holes in the spring pads on the axle instead of drilling the springs? Two inches will put the hole at about the rear of the axle tube and the U-bolts will be clamping it at that point. I have moved an axle one inch by doing it this way. You will definitely need driveshaft mods either way.

Don't have to weld on new spring pads on a flip kit. Just use old parts with a new axle locator bracket.

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

What about an odd change in the rebound rate of the spring since the axle would be eccentrically mounted? Meaning NOT on the apex of the spring pack. Wouldn't this be an issue?

And about the rebound rate, I was concerned with that the axle will not be where it is intended to be in relationship to the spring. Be it only 2 inches, but wondered if that would be a potential weak spot in the spring, especially that there will be the original hole right where the new saddle plate and u-bolt is pulling up on the spring. This is my main concern, safety.

[mr48chev]

I doubt seriously if there would be enough difference with moving the axle forward 2 inches to ever notice unless you have a formula 1 racers butt to be able to tell the difference.

I'd do what Russel suggested in post 8 and that is drill new holes in the spring pad on the axle 2 inches off center and set the axle down on the spring bolts using new holes in the spring pads and you are done. No burning up a dozen drill bits trying to drill though spring steel and no screwing with it for a day and a half.

Those of us who run the 47/54 trucks and change from torque tube to open drive drill offset holes in the new spring mount pads all the time to get the axle positioned where we need it.