Crossmember gurus.. I have a ?

[N2TRUX]

This post is in attempt to keep the other threads on topic....

Ok, I am not new to trucks, suspension mods or going crazy "just because" you want to be different, so you don't need to explain all that.

I am curious what made you mod your own crossmember vs. buying a built one, like what Fatman or Jim Meyers or etc sells. I realize they aren't cheap, and it appears most of you guys prefer to "do it yourself". Is there anything else I am missing here?

There was a time when I did it all too, but those days are over. Now I have to bolt it in or have it done. I am trying to see what is the best route.

[SCOTI]

Ken, keep in mind this is for the 67.... I spoke w/JMeyer Racing about their crossmember & it hangs as low below the frame as a stock truck crossmember. The only benefit clearance wise is how the lower arms mount (usually on the sides of the c.member vs. under for the factory c.member).

Since there isn't much of a clearance benefit vs. cost, I got another c.member & thought I would try hacking on it.

I don't really care for the MII set-ups & the JMRacing uses heim-joint coated spherical bearings for the upper arms (but claim it doesn't affect ride quality??). Both require a R-n-P set-up which for me would might be a problem since my alt. is normally where the pwr. steering pump lives & I don't want to spend a wad of cash only to have to spend even more for new brackets to relocate accessories.

[fastbagged68]

I did mine stock because I wanted to be different then the Mustang II front end. I have also done alot of work on cars with Mustan II and I dont care for them. I also think its more work to do a mustang II or jim meyer one then a stock crossmember. You can buy a complete bolt in one from Bill Turner for proablay the same cost and his is a Bolt On. just my $.02

[68LSS1]

Fatman Stage III here. 1) Big drop without spindles (more drop if needed with). 2) Needed to lighten the front end up (stock cross member heavy) 3) Building every day driver-wanted power rack 4) It looks great, polished tubular a-arms, coilovers.

[JHickson6]

any pics 68LSS1? What's the track width of your suspension? thanks

[phantom dually]

I actually started my crossmember mod because it had hole in the member where I had hydraulics on it before. One thing led to another and then another etc etc !!!!

[70 Jimmy]

I'm doing mine because I can. I'm the kinda guy that needs to be learning about fabrication and mechanical stuff all the time or I go crazy! But, that said, I will probably go with a bolt in next time because I will want to spend MY time learning/doing something else to my rides.

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by SCOTI
..... Both require a R-n-P set-up which for me would might be a problem since my alt. is normally where the pwr. steering pump lives & I don't want to spend a wad of cash only to have to spend even more for new brackets to relocate accessories.

Ok Scoti, I can see where that would make sense. You are already pretty deep in what you have, and it makes sense to mod a stock CM rather than go aftermarket escpecially if it would mean making lots of counter productive changes...

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by fastbagged68
I did mine stock because I wanted to be different then the Mustang II front end. I have also done alot of work on cars with Mustan II and I dont care for them. I also think its more work to do a mustang II or jim meyer one then a stock crossmember. You can buy a complete bolt in one from Bill Turner for proablay the same cost and his is a Bolt On. just my $.02

Wow! I am surprised to hear someone not like the M-II front end. I don't mean the stock M-II of course, but the derivitive units that are on the market. Would you include the Fatman front end in that group too?

I don't have all the facts about the Bill Turner unit yet. Their website is down, and I haven't had time to call. I like the notched crossmember, and the tubular A-arms for sure. Does it require R&P steering, or is that just an option?

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by phantom dually
I actually started my crossmember mod because it had hole in the member where I had hydraulics on it before. One thing led to another and then another etc etc !!!!

Yeah, your reason for doing it doesn't count I can already tell it was a snowball for you.

I do like what you have done with it so far though. If you do decide to weld the A-arm bracket on, and blend it all together it will be sweet. I guess another option would be to add some titanium plates to the A-arms brackets for a nice light show...

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by 70 Jimmy
I'm doing mine because I can. I'm the kinda guy that needs to be learning about fabrication and mechanical stuff all the time or I go crazy! ....

I know who you are. You are the same guy I once was when I had time. Your the don't tell me I can't do it, because that just opens up a can of worms kinda guy. I'm pretty sure the rest of the guys in here are on that list too...

[N2TRUX]

Let me back track a bit here. Scoti knows me, but I'm the FNG to the rest of you. As you can see from my sig, I'm not new to trucks or the mod game. I have an 82 Blazer project that has been going on for longer than I care to discuss. Here's where I am at now.

I spent a lot of time ($$$) getting the fender liners and inner fenders modded so I could roll with 20's. Now 20's are almost common, and I am consider 22's. I don't want to start over on the fender and liners, so I'm trying to get as much ground clearence as I can. The modded CM with reloacted tubular A-arms looks like it might help.

Here's what it looks like now....

[68LSS1]

JHickson6 any pics 68LSS1? What's the track width of your suspension? thanks

I have 2 or 3 with everything just temp installed. Can email them to you if you want.

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by 68LSS1
I have 2 or 3 with everything just temp installed. Can email them to you if you want.

Send them to me too, if you don't mind....

[Captkaos]

drop me an email of the pics too chris.g.lucas@elpaso.com

[bagged78]

In my case I have the dropped spindles, bags and everything allready their, I just want to lay it out without cutting the body. Plus I am a cheep ass, and could use the money it would take to replace it all with a mustang 2 or meyer, or any other, on other parts that I need or want. Plus I have all the crap to do it, and after all is said and done, mine's built, not bought!!!
Most importantly, remember that I'm a cheep ass.....

[phantom dually]

You can run Turners member with the factory steering set up. Bill claims that some trucks clear great when set up and others dont. I kinda got screwed around on the X member with the u bolt deal. (dont ask). Anyhow he made me such a good deal on the upper and lower arms that I could not refuse. Then he gave me free upper cups for the bags and shock relocater brackets. Needless to say I have gotten to know Bill alot more than I wanted to. I could not count how many hours I have spent on the phone with him. Thank god for free Long distance calling. After the problem with the u bolts in the member he sent me I shipped the member back to him at my cost ($30) and he made the a arms fit cut the bottom plate out and notched the bottom up another 1 inch. He also set my rack and pinion up for free while he had it. The moral of this long story is that he has stuck by his product and WILL make it right. Give him a call and his website is back up I think!! www.turnerrodsntrucks.com

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by Captkaos
drop me an email of the pics too chris.g.lucas@elpaso.com

Chris, don't you just hate all this? Was it two, or three years ago that we first discussed the idea of modding a crossmember? Oh well. at least you did get started on yours. It's a few years later, and I'm still in the planning stages...

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by phantom dually
You can run Turners member with the factory steering set up. Bill claims that some trucks clear great when set up and others dont. I kinda got screwed around on the X member with the u bolt deal. (dont ask). Anyhow he made me such a good deal on the upper and lower arms that I could not refuse. .... www.turnerrodsntrucks.com

In the long run, I guess that's what matters. I don't think I want to go through the R&P conversion even though it looks sweet. I think I'll just see if the A-rams will work for sure, and clean the bottom up like you did. That should make a big difference alone. It might give me the extra 1-2" I need to roll with it all the way down....

[phantom dually]

I would think that you could notch the bottom of the member and pull the arms up into the member. Then take and smooth out a set of factory arms??

[N2TRUX]

That's an option too. I already trimmed the outer lip and boxed the bottom of the A-arm. I like the looks of the tubular arm so much better though....

[68LSS1]

I''ll get those pix out Sunday morning.

[68LSS1]

Captkaos/JHickson6, pix sent. N2TRUX send me your email and I'll get them to you also. BMWAP1@tampabay.rr.com

[N2TRUX]

It's on the way....

[Captkaos]

Originally posted by N2TRUX
Chris, don't you just hate all this? Was it two, or three years ago that we first discussed the idea of modding a crossmember? Oh well. at least you did get started on yours. It's a few years later, and I'm still in the planning stages...

Yeah, I guess that's what happens when you don't stay focused. Oh well, I ain't done yet!