How dangerous is it to grind off ball joint rivets?

[Malamute]

I just started with the first one and it's throwing enough sparks that I have some concerns. The inner fenders are removed, that's why I'm a little concerned.

Thanks.

[hugger6933]

Of course the main concern is that your eyes are protected, any time you hammer or grind. [oh also drill] The sparks are something to watch out for I use some cardboard to block them off from hitting anything I really don't want the sparkles[ grinder shaving] to hit. Also be forewarned that if those hit your glass they will embed themselves in the glass and later rust. I know these trucks have rust issues but we don't have to add to it by adding a rusting glass to the mix. So cover the glass as well the shavings can and will land on a pretty motor and like all bare metal things once after a very little time will rust so it is best to try to keep it off the best you can. Jim

[Boog]

Sparks wont hurt anything as long as there are no gas leaks and such and dont let the sparks hit the windshield. Hot sparks can bury into glass. And wear eye protection of coarse.

[michael bustamante]

also you can just cut a X into them and then chisel them off, alot less grinding

[Malamute]

Thanks for the tips. Eye protection for sure. Got the driver side off, gouged the control arm a little where I got the pickle fork in to separate it. If I grind it smooth I should be OK, right?

I am going to try cutting an X in the other side and see if that is easier. I appreciate the feedback guys.

[Malamute]

Other side was about the same. What a design.

The bushing on the passenger side has maybe 1/4" of play in it, I really don't want to replace the bushings. Once the spindles are in and everything is tied together I should be OK shouldn't I?

Thanks.

[lolife99]

You need to replace the bushing if you are talking about the control arm cross shaft bushings.

[Malamute]

Yes, the cross shaft bushing in the upper CA. I'll just do both sides. The lowers are tight. It looks like they have shims behind them as well. I'm guessing if I replace them the shims need to go back in the same way?

I should have just bought new control arms!

[lolife99]

Shims are for alignment purposes.
You will need to get a front end alignment when you are done with all of the suspension work.
Put the same amount of shims back in and it will be close enough to get you to the alignment shop.

[Malamute]

Yeah, I was planning on an alignment. I will note how the shims are and put them back with the new bushings. Thanks.

[Aruba1]

Changing non-broken parts is pure preference. I don't change anything is not broken, specially these days that most parts are no longer build like they used too. Those tight lower ball-joints may outlast new one, just saying.

[Malamute]

They were the originals and the boots weren't holding the grease. I figured I was there and they really needed to be replaced. The control arm shafts(bushings) are another story. I'd love to leave them but if they need to be replaced I'll do it.

This is what I found: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...del/c10-pickup

[snipescastle2]

you can always center punch first, the drill the heads off the rivets, the drive the rest out through the hole.... or use an air chisel....
Ben

[elf w/capital T]

Funny i ground the heas off the passenger side and then did the air gun and chiseled the drivers down, then drilled in the middle of the rivets and punched them through.. prefered to grind thhem down, sparks were directed away from motor... lowers ahhh originals were rusted in... using a 3 lb hammer and an axe...i finally popped those suckers out! Good luck!

[Malamute]

The lowers took me less than 5 minutes a side with a press. The uppers took me 20-30 minutes a side. I just need to clean up the upper CA now where I gouged the metal in a few spots getting them off.

Thanks for the help guys.