Detailing Ron Burgundy - Trials and Tribulations of Restoring 40 Old Paint

[jb3t]

OK... I admit, this is a little bit of a ripoff of the "Restoring Rusty" thread. Sort of like "Joanie Loves Chachi" was a ripoff to "Happy Days".

Anyway... meet our 1978 Chevy C10 pickup. His name is Ron Burgundy. This is actually my teenage son's truck. We got lucky with Ron as he's a one owner from 1978 with little rust, all original, but boy is the paint faded, oxidized, and full of small scratches. From afar, good ole Ron looks decent but up close, you can see the poor dude's age.

During this thread, I am going to document the process I went through. Maybe it can help someone or maybe folks can shoot holes in by process. I can tell you this, I am half done and the truck looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor.

[jb3t]

Doing the Homework

I had some free time one night and broke out the Meguiars Ultimate Polish and a nice, soft rag and went to town on the tailgate. An hour later, after wax-on, wax-off by hand, I stood back and took a look. What did I see? A marginally better looking oxidized old truck. Needless to say, I was not super impressed after an hour of working the paint. Furthermore, I was alarmed a bit that some of my maroon paint was coming off on the towel. Am I doing damage? I have no clue. Time to do the research.

Firstly, I took to the pile of records I had on the truck and determined two things: 1) I am pretty sure I have single stage paint, which is paint with no clearcoat and 2) based on the records, it appears that some or all of the truck was repainted 25 years ago. So, I have a baseline.

Next, I took to the web and watched many a video and read many an article. There was one series of videos that, though seemingly longer than Rocky I through IV combined, where I really learned how to restore paint safely and effectively. This series of videos was put out by a guy named JUNKMAN2000. I followed his process TO THE "T" and, so far, the results have exceeded my expectations.

I spent several days watching these videos off and on... learning the process. After watching this, I have a whole new respect for paint restoration and upkeep.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP-eAddv2sk

[jb3t]

Acquiring the Tools for the Job

Based on all my research, but mostly what Junkman said, I went out and purchased they things I need to do this right. I probably dropped over $100 on everything. Maybe closer to $150. Im not too worried about the cost as I am going to use this same process to fix a ton of scratches in my 2009 Impala. These are my tools.

1. DA Polisher from Harbor Freight (the 6") model. Their price, I believe, was $69 and I had a 20% coupon. Final price was about $56. The higher end model is made by Porter Cable but I decided to go with the HF version as I dont plan on using it much. Reviews were good and I have no complaints so far.

2. DA Pads - I purchased several Hex Logic DA pads including two 5.5" WHITE PADS and two 5.5" ORANGE PADS. I also purchased a 4" pads and smaller backplate to reach hard to reach areas. Cost was about $8ea from Amazon Prime. I also bought a few cheapies from Harbor Freight.

3. CLAY BARS - I purchased a $14 clay bar kit (two clay bars and detail spray). This was a key part.

4. COMPOUND AND POLISH - I purchased Meguairs Mirror Glaze products. This included Meguiars M105 Ultra Cut Compound and M205 Ultra Finishing Polish. One was $30 and the other was $24. I found a 30% off coupon from Advance Auto and got them both for $37.

5. MICROFIBER TOWELS - I had a few microfiber towels that I used to wipe off the polish.

6. CAR WASH AND TWO BUCKETS - Good car wash and used two buckets to wash my car. I learned the two bucket method from the JunkMan. Little did I know that washing you car incorrectly causes a lit of your scratches.

Those were my tools...

[jb3t]

After a good wash, CLAY BAR THE VEHICLE

I obviously know what clay is, I used clay to make a volcano for my 9th grade science project. However, I have never used clay on a vehicle. Why clay? In short, it takes the gunk off your paint safely. Take a sandwich bag, put you hand in the bag, and run it across the paint. You will feel all kinds of bumps and other stuff on your paint. The clay takes that off. You need that gunk off to do this properly.

Claying the car takes a lot of elbow grease. In short, you pick an area, take the clay and some detail spray and start rubbing fast... up, down, sideways, circles, and any other way. Give a squirt of the spray every few seconds to keep it all lubricated. After a minute or two, you will notice the difference. Remold the clay as needed. Wipe it off with a microfiber. If the clay hits the ground, throw it out.

Here's a good video on the claying process -> https://youtu.be/900rjH-FKHA

[Gregski]

Truck Name = Money !!! best one I heard fer sure

[jb3t]

The Pilot Project

Ok... last post for the night.

I'm up on New England and we've had a horrid winter. Cold as a you-know-what. My son and I stare at the weather forecast waiting for a reasonable day to do a pilot project. Last week, we had a break and gave the process a whirl. We...

1. Washed the panel we were piloting on.

2. Did the sandwich bag trick to see how gritty the paint was.

3. Used the clay bar and detail spray to clay it. Did this in 5 min.

4. Broke out the DA POLISHER with the ORANGE pad and the M105 compound and used the Junkman's technique which is slow and steady. It's important to watch the video so you know just how much compound to use (3 pea-sized drops) and the technique (2x2 area, side-to-side slowly, then up-and-down slowly, a few passes like that, and wipe off). Did two passes.

5. Broke out the WHITE PAD with the M205 polish and two passes using the same technique as in video. BOY WHAT A DIFFERENCE.

6. Wiped off with micorfiber towel each time.

The technique I am talking about is in installment 4 of the video series -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0rbZOeNN4o

here's the results. Unfortunately, the picture does not do it justice. To the right of the tape = polished. To the left of the tape = the old clean oxidized paint.

Test = successful. Time to do the rest of the truck. The big challenge will be the hood, it is VERY VERY oxidized, faded, miscolored, etc.

More to come tomorrow

[gramps77]

watching this one for sure.
Paint looks great.

[jb3t]

Expanding the Pilot... We are going up the side

The weather up here in New England is driving me nuts. Can't seem to shake the high 40s, low 50s garbage. While there is nothing on the bottle saying you can't apply in cool temps, I'm trying for it to be at least 55 degrees out.... For my own sanity.

Anyway, I was able to expand my pilot project all the way up the side of the truck, following the exact process... wash, clay, compound, and polish. It turned out absolutely awesome. Nearly all scratches gone and a mirror-like shine. Looks like it just rolled off the assembly line.

I will tell you that, like the Junkman said in his videos, this process is NOT FAST. I'd say that it took 1.5-2 hours per panel. Doors may be a little quicker. Results are great so far.

During this process I did run into a few minor procedural issues. Namely that a) it's difficult to work the buffer in concave areas of the body, like along the rear fender where there's like a small valley. I had to do what I could to angle the DA pad to get max bufferage; and b) in some areas (front fender) the moulding starts getting close together so again, it's hard to get the buffer in there. Plus the same issue in the nooks and crannies around the mirror and such.

To alleviate the above, I dropped $10 on two 4inch pads. What I can't get with the DA, I will do by hand using the applicable buffer pad. as of this point, I'm 75% done. Bad lighting in the garage but here's the progress.

Hopefully tomorrow I can pull Ronny out of th garage and take a picture in the light. It's like a mirror.

[jb3t]

The Battle Royale

I decided to give the side a rest before I finalize it as I need those 4inch pads. The Amazon drone (more likely the UPS driver) should be dropping off those small pads tomorrow. So I turned my sights to the wide open spaces of my hood. Should be a piece of cake... NOT!

Let me tell you about my hood.... It's an oxidized mess. A patchwork of different flavors of red, sort of like that picnic blanket that Yogi Bear may have had to go with his picnic basket. This, by far, is the worst part of the truck. However, it's wide open and flat. Should be easy to bang out. Boy was I wrong.

Taking the exact same approach, I went to work. However, for some reason, the M105 compound on the Orange pad was leaving a seemingly baked-in haze into the paint. Like a contrail from a jet that does not dissipate. I started to get scared as I thought I was running the paint. Also, More red was showing on the pad.

I decided to switch to another orange pad and then my backup cheapo Harbor Freight pad. The HF pad actually worked better but still has a maasive haze. So, I used the microfiber to get it off and no go. The haze was baked in unless I really rubbed hard. I then sprayed some detail spray on the hood and rubbed again. With a little elbow grease, I rubbed the compound off and the SHINE CAME THROUGH.

Did my second pass with the compound and same thing... Fighting it all the way with the M105 compound. Haze city but came off with detail spray, microfiber, and elbow grease. All-in-all I think I had TWO HOURS into half of the hood.

After two passes (and 2 hours) into the M105 compound and the Orange pad, I was satisfied and turned to the M205 polish and the white pad. Applying the M205 was night and day compared to the M105. Easy on and easy off. Two passes, nice and slow, wiped right off and left a shine that was as good as a mirror. Incredible.

Why was it difficult? I have no clue. I think the hood may have been original paint. It seemed like a different texture and dry. Maybe it was because it was only 50 in the garage or maybe th heat of the engine baked it on. I was fighting it all the way but I prevailed. I may try a different combo in the other side like M205 on the Orange or M105 in the white. Or maybe I will go for it.

The picture does not quite capture the oxidation and multi toneness. Believe-you-me, it looks like a poison ivy rash after you've run through a field of pricker bushes.

[y5mgisi]

Subscribed!

[68Timber]

Yeah no doubt, I've been wondering how you guys are doing this. Also, nice to know the materials don't cost much to get into.

[Chaplain]

The Junkman is/was very well known name in the Corvette world. I have watched his videos and even exchange a few PMs with him. He seems to enjoy sharing knowledge.

I'm not to the point of polishing on my 79 yet but when I do I'm expecting to follow a similar process.

Keep up the good work.

[jb3t]

OK Boys and Girls. Took some snapshots of the first half of the hood inside my dark garage. Its rainy and raw out and I'm not rolling this puppy outside until it's dry. Once the sun decides to come out, I will take some real shots. Be here's some to wet your whistle.

This is after about 2 hours on half the hood. I think I can do the other side in an hour. Hopefully I will not have to fight it as much. Im beginning to think the M105 may be too much for the hood but the results are well beyond my expectations.

The shine is so bright and mirror-like, the wife could do her makeup by looking at the hood on the truck. YES... that is my garage door opener, ceiling strapping, and insulation in the reflection. That reminds me that I really need to put sheet rock up there.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Man that's great. I'm about to add a buffer to my detailing kit, thanks for the guide.

[jb3t]

lets just hope the paint does not run off when I hit the rain. It looks too good... im waiting for the other shoe to drop!

[MalibuSSwagon]

How do you like the harbor Freight buffer? I've been looking at the Porter Cable 7424 that everyone likes, but I won't be using it everyday like a pro would be, so maybe the cheaper one will be good for occasional use. I've anyways used normal buffers and not a random orbit one so that will be an adjustment anyways.

[Cape Codder]

Looks great, keep up the good work. When compounding try working an area about 2' at a time. You can overlap back into that area when you move to the next. I use a spray trigger bottle of water when compounding also. An old timer I worked for when I first started body work in the 70's showed me that. If the compound is drying out as your buffing just give a light mist of water to keep it fluid. It cleans the pad as you go too. I am a few miles so. of you and know what you mean about this weather,at least most of the snow is gone. When you get the truck where you are happy with it try the wax as you dry from eagle one. It is a quick way to maintain the shine and protection. This is my 98 with all original paint after restoring the finish about the same way as you are doing. I use a rotary buffer for compounding and a dual action for polish and wax.

[jb3t]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

How do you like the harbor Freight buffer? I've been looking at the Porter Cable 7424 that everyone likes, but I won't be using it everyday like a pro would be, so maybe the cheaper one will be good for occasional use. I've anyways used normal buffers and not a random orbit one so that will be an adjustment anyways.

I've only ever polished a vehicle by hand so I don't have much experience with different apparatus. I'm a noob. Based on my use, the HF seems to be working great but I dont have a point of reference. Sometimes the HF stops spinning (it still oscillates) when you hit a concave (dip) area. I think this is by design but I wonder if the PC does the same. That's the only Q I've had.

Based in HF reviews, people say they feel it's just like the PC. It got good ratings. Lots of good YouTube reviews too. If you go that route, remember to find a 20% off coupon to knock it down to $55. To me, it was a good gamble and you have time to return.

[jb3t]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Looks great, keep up the good work. When compounding try working an area about 2' at a time. You can overlap back into that area when you move to the next. I use a spray trigger bottle of water when compounding also. An old timer I worked for when I first started body work in the 70's showed me that. If the compound is drying out as your buffing just give a light mist of water to keep it fluid. It cleans the pad as you go too. I am a few miles so. of you and know what you mean about this weather,at least most of the snow is gone. When you get the truck where you are happy with it try the wax as you dry from eagle one. It is a quick way to maintain the shine and protection. This is my 98 with all original paint after restoring the finish about the same way as you are doing. I use a rotary buffer for compounding and a dual action for polish and wax.

Thanks... That looks great. I'm a total rookie but taking my time. I'm hoping if I'm doing something stupid that someone will tell me. I did not even think about wax yet. I was going to research that next.

My only concern so far was red paint on my pad but I hear this is typical for single stAge paint.

[Cape Codder]

Taking some paint off is what compound and polish does. Same with clearcoat you just can't see it. The random orbit polisher is a lot more forgiving for a beginner than a old school rotary buffer that will burn the paint off the edges till you learn how to handle them. I started body work in 1974 at a GMC dealer and worked on these when they were brand new.

[ultrahd4me]

jb the truck looks great. I used the same process on a dark blue truck with the exception of I wet sanded a few areas with 2000 grit paper. If you really want the paint to pop just repeat that same process with quality a polish then a wax. I spent about a week but the results were amazing. Good job.

[rajincajintj]

those are some marked improvements.

well done.

[Jeepwm69]

Nicely done. Tagged for future reference.

[TKCR]

Great job!!

[77c10]

Looks killer!