How to centre rear wheels? Would this work?

[Paul Y]

Morning all!

Apologies for the lack of activity but... well yeah...that...

Anyway, currently planning the first in the major changes to Woody, one of which is to upgrade the suspension front and rear.

So, whilst I have the big spanners out, how have you gone about centring the rear wheels in the arch?



The fact they are not central really bugs me!

Does flipping the control arm mount push the wheels back and if so is it enough?

Or... My though is to machine a spacer to fit between the control arm mount and the cross member if flipping the bracket is not enough.

Also... How far does it have to go back by?

Appreciate a few questions but want to reduce the down time as much as possible so if I need to make or acquire parts want to do so whilst still mobile.

Thanks,

P.

[PGSigns]

Working this issue on my 65. Here is my plan so far. Going to use an aftermarket trailing arm crossmember to move the entire setup back about 2" when I install it (looking at porterbuilt). Use the shock relocators like No Limit has that move them to the outside. That gets them out of the way for the exhaust. Use a panhard bar from Porterbuilt that bolts to the frame on the drivers side so it can be shifted aft as well. Bag mounts and notch placed as needed. Will require a new drive shaft but I don't have one now so not an issue.
Jimmy

[Paul Y]

Thanks Jimmy.

I have the No Limit adjustable Panhard rod, will be relocating the shocks to the outside of the frame and am also using Robs front and rear anti roll bars (sway bars).

Have a notch kit I am throwing in there as well for future stuff.

Not really in the market for an after-market cross member.

Having said that if I need to move the cross member back 2" to center the wheels then can that not be done by moving the original back?

Has anybody flipped the control arm mounts and measured the how far back this pushes the wheels?

All very interesting.

P.

[frankslagoon]

When we lower the trks with different springs the rear end swings forward in the wheel well. I think the guys are usen a spacer between the control arms and the rearend. that would set the rear end up straight off the control arms instead of swinging it forward. does that make sense ?

[PGSigns]

Lowering the truck will move the rear a tad bit back as the trailing arms get closer to 0 angle in the arc of travel. Adding blocks moves it a bit forward. You don't gain much of anything by flipping the brackets on the trailing arm cross member except an improvement in pinion angle. You can move the stock trailing arm cross member back and redrill it. The big reason for me going to an aftermarket cross member is the added space to run the exhaust. You can mod the stock cross member but with all the other work done to the truck its just a nice looking piece to add to what I have.
Jimmy

[DLW]

I too went with the PB cross member and trailing arms. The nice thing about the cross member is it gives you several different mounting points to choose to correct suspension geometry and pinion angle. The arms themselves have adjustable ends to center the rear.

[vin63]

Yep, when you lower the rear of the truck, the trailing arm geometry of the arch pulls the axle centerline forward. This is what I did to address the aesthetics. Since I am running a 31" tall tire, I sectioned the area in front of the wheel opening and stretched it 3.5 inches forward. The vertical reference line above the wheel opening was the original axle centerline.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by DLW

I too went with the PB cross member and trailing arms. The nice thing about the cross member is it gives you several different mounting points to choose to correct suspension geometry and pinion angle. The arms themselves have adjustable ends to center the rear.

I just looked at those, Nice. Did you have to move the spring or shock mounts?
Also it says:
"Note:
This crossmember uses a late model carrier bearing (PN HB88107A), and will not work with the factory carriers bearing. The placement of the carrier bearing mount, is moved forward, and a stock driveshaft will NOT work. It would require it being modified to work with the new carrier bearing location."
Carrier Bearing? What does that mean? Is that the driveshaft support bearing?

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Have a notch kit I am throwing in there as well for future stuff.
P.

The notch kit is probably set up for the stock rear axle location. Just something to think about.

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by Slow Build

The notch kit is probably set up for the stock rear axle location. Just something to think about.

Good point!

Will be looking to st t work in a few weekends time, still pondering if just putting 2" spacers between the crossmember and brackets will achieve what i am looking for.

P.

[chevy_mike]

If you move the mounts back 2", everything behind it will not line up correctly. Spring mounts and panhard bar will all be in a bind, if they fit at all. Even the wheel wells will be located wrong and you'll likely get tire rub.

[vin63]

^^^ This is why I modified and sectioned the sheet metal/bed side. Physically moving the axle centerline back (either by moving the trailing arm cross member, extending the trailing arms, etc.) involves a lot more engineering consideration and structural work.

[jonzcustomshop]

what about stepsides? it seems to me that the axle sits about 2 inches too far to the rear?

on my 61 short step the tire is centered similar to the ones in this pic.

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

what about stepsides? it seems to me that the axle sits about 2 inches too far to the rear?

on my 61 short step the tire is centered similar to the ones in this pic.

Looking at the pics of those steppers and the fleet, it seems the wheel opening is shaped differently and is located closer to the cab. Be interesting to get a measurement between the two styles.

[Gooker928]

I don't know if I'm understanding the O Ps question but I lowered my rear 4 inches and I used captainfabs brackets to add disc brakes. The brake kit widened the rear a couple inches and the lowering made the rear biased toward the passenger side about an inch.
I hooked straps up going from my driver side wheel to the frame on the passenger side.
I tightened the straps until both sides measured the same and I adjusted the panhard bar to fit and tightened. When I released the tension on the straps it was all good.

[Paul Y]

Planning on taking the bed off in a few weeks time to repair the damage to the b pillar and front edge of the bed. Will look at the various options including moving the arches. Thak you all for your thought and experience.

P.

[DLW]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I just looked at those, Nice. Did you have to move the spring or shock mounts?
Also it says:
"Note:
This crossmember uses a late model carrier bearing (PN HB88107A), and will not work with the factory carriers bearing. The placement of the carrier bearing mount, is moved forward, and a stock driveshaft will NOT work. It would require it being modified to work with the new carrier bearing location."
Carrier Bearing? What does that mean? Is that the driveshaft support bearing?

I used the PB level 2 kit which keeps everything lined up where it should be. I believe they are referring to the 2 piece driveshaft support bearing, I have a one piece DS.

[mookandairin]

I know I havent been here for a long time (nor would anyone even remember me) and this thread is as old as I am but I am right at this spot on my build. I have a 65 step and the rear is offset in the wheel well. I am just curious as to how you adjust it straight or even if it is adjustable? I havent been under there yet but it is going to be tackled as soon as I get my turbos, boost, A/F ratios ironed out. is it as easy as measuring/adjusting or is it going to be another can of worms lol. I cant tell you how many times I have had to put them back in the can after I opened that damn can up lmao

[Captainfab]

Are you talking about offset side to said or front to back?