12 Bolt Rebuild

[Matthewjb]

I'm rebuilding the original 12 bolt in my 69 shortbed c10. I have a big block motor that will be used for street/strip (mainly just having fun, nothing serious) that has been dynoed at 540 hp and 550 lbs of torque. My question is this: Is what I bought enough to beef this 12 bolt up to handle that power. Here is what I have bought so far: everything listed is brand new

Alloy axles 30 spline
Eaton Differential
3.73 ring and pinion
Changed out bearings outter and inner
New c clips
New differential cover (b&M)

What are yalls thoughts?

[70']

I would suggest upgrading the internal clutch springs to the 800lb class if that's not what is in the new eaton unit. Don't overlook the brakes, takes a lot to stop that kind of power.

[Mike C]

The parts you bought will be fine if you run street tires. Even on sticky tires at the track they should be OK. Just don't let it wheel hop...

[Matthewjb]

Did forget to mention, I did upgrade to disc brakes on all 4 corners.

[Matthewjb]

Awesome, thanks for the input. This definitely helps!

[70cst]

That's a lot of hp... should be fun

[hugger6933]

Yeah, you'll be fine with that.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Matthewjb

I'm rebuilding the original 12 bolt in my 69 shortbed c10. I have a big block motor that will be used for street/strip (mainly just having fun, nothing serious) that has been dynoed at 540 hp and 550 lbs of torque. My question is this: Is what I bought enough to beef this 12 bolt up to handle that power. Here is what I have bought so far: everything listed is brand new

Alloy axles 30 spline
Eaton Differential
3.73 ring and pinion
Changed out bearings outter and inner
New c clips
New differential cover (b&M)

What are yalls thoughts?

I would look into putting press-on wheel bearing housing ends into it and getting rid of the C-clips. There are also oval track / street friendly C-clip eliminators now that use roller bearings and good seals instead of ball bearings and low drag seals like the older drag racing versions had.

The cost is about the same either way once you pay to have the housing ends installed but you can put the C-clip eliminators on yourself at home so that factor comes into play.

I broke a 30-spline aftermarket axle with slicks on my 70 Chevelle with a similar power output 454. The C-clip eliminators I put on kept the wheel from coming off.

For the piece of mind it is not that much extra money added to what you have already invested. Depending upon the way your caliper brackets mount you may not be able to run C-clip eliminators without modifying the brackets to mount from the back of the backing plate mount flange instead of the front like most disc conversion parts I have seen are done.

The press-on bearings will also make your axles last longer as the axle is no longer the inner bearing race and prone to wear as with stock style wheel bearings.