Considering a 9" Floating Axle for Autocross/Track/Street- Advice?

[theastronaut]

I've been looking into using a 9" floater axle for my '66 C10 build. I need something to keep axle end play to a minimum to prevent pad knock-back since I won't be using sliding calipers. The other plus would be easy gear changes. I don't know much about them though so what should I look for when ordering a housing or axle kit? I've seen some listed as centered or offset housing- I'm guessing that is to either keep the pinion centered or have matching axle lengths? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each? I'd also like to have about half to one degree of negative camber; do I need to get special hubs/axles to allow that or can normal hubs/axles handle that amount of camber?

Anything else I need to know before ordering?

This is one of the companies I've been looking at.

http://9inchfloater.com/CompleteRrEn...rEnd_28_31.htm

[BR3W CITY]

I don't see full float rear ends in street cars that much, since don't they require a wheel with a hub diameter much larger than normal for that bearing/hub assembly that holds the axle shaft and lugs? I don't know much about using circle track stuff like you linked to, so maybe they have a version that doesn't require huge hub holes in the wheel.

I thought floaters were an HD truck kinda thing for 4x4's and RV's and heavy stuff. Its cool since you can break an axle and still roll the car, but I can't recall seeing one setup in a performance-oriented street vehicle.


As for the offset, I also thought that was a 4x4 thing so you could have the shaft coming off your transfer case take a straight-shot to the rear end.

I'm not an authority on the HD stuff so maybe one of the other guys can step in, but in terms of drag/autox/etc I don't see them around.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

They are big money, but plenty of people swear by them.

Try a used NASCAR web site sometimes they pop up there much cheaper then new.

[Dan@Hotchkis]

I use one in my car for autocross and track events for the exact reason you listed. If you use conservative alignment settings it shouldn't be too much of an issue, but they do have a shorter service life span than a standard rear end. I have to grease my endplates every 500 miles and I pull the hubs completely apart every 1000-2000 miles for inspection and repacking. It's race car parts.
If you want a good, cheap idea...I like 8.8's out of ford explorers. Wide, disc brakes, LSD and cheap to service/rebuild.

[BR3W CITY]

Dan, does it require a different hub diameter on the wheels tho?

[Dan@Hotchkis]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Dan, does it require a different hub diameter on the wheels tho?

Depends on the rear and who makes it. Mine is pretty heavy duty so the Hub Register(what centers the wheel to the hub) was quite large. For mine the preferred bolt pattern is a 5 on 5, however I had them drill mine for 5 on 4.5, which means I have to RTV the two halves of the hub together instead of using an o-ring.