Which Radiator ? 2 or 3 row, Aluminum ?

[1970pelle]

My engine replacement has turned into a restoration than just a new crate engine. I keep finding parts either worn completely out or broken. I'm the type who doesn't put this off. I will update my engine thread later.

What I need input on is what size Radiator to buy. The one that came out of the truck looks to be OEM. And weights a ton, its plugged up. And the bottom half is soft. Its a three row also.
I'm looking at replacements and with the new Aluminum Radiators out there is it possible a two row will do the job of the old three row ?
Or stay with a three row ?

[nonstop]

It is possible the 2 row will work, but I like going overkill on the cooling system and would likely go with the 3 row for peace of mind.

[MountainGoat1966]

According to a very trusted radiator shop I have dealt with for close to 30 years, a three core aluminum is equal to a one core copper/brass for heat dissipation. He might be really close in his calculations.
I have two squarebodies, an 83 with a crate 350 and a one row aluminum cools it nicely, the stroker engine in my 84 that dumps more heat required a two core aluminum to run at the proper temperature.
I agree with the overkill theory, heat will kill an engine so use a bigger radiator.

[tucsonjwt]

Larger 2 row OEM replacement from Ready Rad for my stock 83 454 runs very cool in the 110 degree desert heat - very low cost. Aluminum is not necessary.

[Bigstevex4]

My boss buys what's cheapest we have 7.3 ford e450s with 2 A/c And 2 alt running single cores No problem but we don't use them hard or get stuck stop and go traffic Black hills SD,

[Domer]

Im running a 3 row aluminum with dual electrics and shroud from ebay.. i think i paid like $380 to my door. And that is cooling my 355 with a 6-71 making just over 600hp in socal climate. never over heats.

[greg64]

I think it really depends on how you use your truck. I think over-heating takes two forms:

1. At idle while waiting in traffic. The kind of thing that could even happen to a trailer queen. This is where electric fans are really good. And mechanical fans with no shrouds are poor.

2. Under heavy towing loads for an extended period. There's a mountain pass about 100 miles from my house. The ascent to the peak is 20 miles long! The grade starts out at 6%, increases to 7%, and the last 5 miles are 8%. It takes at least 30 minutes to climb this. Everybody with a real load is running flat out. Overheating here is commonplace. In this environment, I'll take all the radiator I can get!

Oh, that combined grade climbs 4000 feet, vertically.

[1970pelle]

I'm going back with a 3 row, due to living in Florida. Plus the major traffic issue's around Jacksonville, seams like there's always a jam somewhere. I also have dual electric fans setup to run at high and low speeds.
Plus the OEM oil cooler and I have added a trans cooler. I have read about not needing a extra trans cooler. But after living down south for 20 years I have smelled my share of burnt trans fluid.

Ken

[Jay2Cor517]

I'm with you on this one, I believe more is better when it comes to radiators. Here's a little info from Super Chevy: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...n-engines.html

[philobeddoe]

Always go with a triple core...

[1970pelle]

I knew asking the question would make me sound like a dumb ass. Which I'm far from in my own little world . I was just thinking I may have not known of a newer style or latest & greatest thing in radiators. I just wanted the best for my truck with its new power plant. I have spent $3500.00 this engine replacement so far.
You ask how? I have found that if it wasn't worn out it was broken. So everything has been rebuilt or replaced. And all the stuff even the small items add up. Plus I'm VERY picky about how I do things. Everything has to be kitchen sink clean. And detailed, I feather sanded my P/S pump tin before priming it. Then I painted it with a hammer finish.

Ken

[greg64]

Ken, we need some pics of that new engine!

[1970pelle]

Originally Posted by greg64

Ken, we need some pics of that new engine!

I'll update my engine thread this weekend.

[philobeddoe]

Im the same way. Good job.
Posted via Mobile Device

[tucsonjwt]

i would say that the radiator is not the only factor in cooling - think water pump, fan, fan clutch, coolant level and condition, thermostat and operating condition, etc. Is is possible to run and engine "too cool?"

[greg64]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

Is is possible to run and engine "too cool?"

Yes it is. An engine that is too cold won't have the right clearances, increasing wear. Also, if the oil doesn't get up to the right temperature, it doesn't flow as expected. Further, cool oil won't boil off condensation in the oil, leading to increased oil contamination. All bad.

[tucsonjwt]

That's my problem - I am too cool.

[1970pelle]

That why it's important to run a thermostat in your engine. I remember years ago hearing the guys saying you don't need that thing, take it out.
It didn't take long to prove that line of thought wrong. The temp in thermostat I have ever gone is 180, that what I'll be using in this engine also.
Like I said before the traffic around here is unbelievable at times. And add outside temps of 95 and hot blacktop.

I have a small 8 inch electric fan that if it fit in front of all my coolers and condenser, radiator. I might wire it up on a manual switch for such situation. To help out the R12 A/C system that has been converted cool a little better in traffic.

[tucsonjwt]

My stock 454 with that 2 row Ready Rad copper/brass radiator and 180 degree thermostat shows a constant 165 degrees on the temp gauge when at operating temperature, regardless of load or idling in 110 degree ambient temperature in the summer.