Transmission cross member. Did I screw up?

[Rwalkup]

I got to looking on the site and I have the sneaking suspicion I may have put my crossmember in incorrectly. The pick up is a 1948 3100 series. I put it in this way thinking that I should not remove that existing crossmember underneath the transmission. What do you think guys, can I take that out? Then I would just go ahead and get a different crossmember for the transmission and redo it. Or is it okay just the way it is? Thank you in advance for any advice.

[Rwalkup]

not for sure why the pictures upside down.

[capnduane]

Can you get the pan off the trans with the stock crossmember there? I think it is a structural member and wouldn't want to go with out it.

[Rwalkup]

It's tight, but you can get the pan off.

[mr48chev]

I'd rather see that than one with the crossmember hacked out and the cab sagging after it twisted the frame rails. You probably could have cut a slice out of it under the trans and dropped the top piece down a bit and welded it back for more room but if it works to get the pan off every 20K that is all you need. Not much harder than changing the filter in the 350 trans I had in my 71 GMC that came that way from the factory.

[Rwalkup]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'd rather see that than one with the crossmember hacked out and the cab sagging after it twisted the frame rails. You probably could have cut a slice out of it under the trans and dropped the top piece down a bit and welded it back for more room but if it works to get the pan off every 20K that is all you need. Not much harder than changing the filter in the 350 trans I had in my 71 GMC that came that way from the factory.

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[solidaxel]

How much drive shaft angle do you have with the stock X member in place?
Are you able to fit the trans under the floor with out building a new cover?

[Rwalkup]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

How much drive shaft angle do you have with the stock X member in place?
Are you able to fit the trans under the floor with out building a new cover?

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[Rwalkup]

The tranny and the axle are parallel and the driveline is at 5 degrees. It looks like I will have to do a little work in the floor for the back end of the tranny.
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[capnduane]

My plan with my '55 2nd is to grind the heads off the rivets of the stock crossmember and replace them with bolts. That way when I need to remove the bellhousing to service the clutch, I can remove the crossmember. I have a '69 Pontiac V8 with a aluminum full circle bellhousing, no bottom cover to remove.... You might consider this, to be able to remove trans without lifting/moving engine?

[b.sharp]

I would have removed it and put it in the location of your new crossmember. No real need for both of them. It probably would not hurt the structural integrity to slide the crossmember back a foot to the new desired location. Just my opinion. I wouldn't want it in the way if I had to servicr or replace the tranny. You may have room with the cab off but what about when it's all back together, Can you get the whole tranny out without taking motor out as well?

[nvrdone]

looks like a beam axle front end. if so, leave that crossmember in the stock position to support the springs & so the frame doesn't sag

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'd rather see that than one with the crossmember hacked out and the cab sagging after it twisted the frame rails.

Originally Posted by nvrdone

looks like a beam axle front end. if so, leave that crossmember in the stock position to support the springs & so the frame doesn't sag

i agree with both of these comments.
that x-member supports the cab mounts and the rear shackles of the front springs
in my 58 i cut it out but went back in with a fully boxed frame and this x-member
i did a mustII ifs, didn't need to support the springs

[OrrieG]

I kept mine and have removed the trans pan twice and made a two part converter cover. I figure GM spent a lot of time and money on design and location to resist the rear spring shackle side loads and frame twisting that will rack the cab. The frames were designed to flex and twist, I have had mine cork screwed off road enough to pop the A-pillar to cab weld, surprised I did not blow out the windshield. My trans/transfer is supported by a separate crossmember in about the same location as yours.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by b.sharp

I would have removed it and put it in the location of your new crossmember. No real need for both of them. It probably would not hurt the structural integrity to slide the crossmember back a foot to the new desired location. Just my opinion. I wouldn't want it in the way if I had to servicr or replace the tranny. You may have room with the cab off but what about when it's all back together, Can you get the whole tranny out without taking motor out as well?

There is a very honest need for either the stock crossmember to remain there or the frame to be reinforced by boxing or another crossmember being built to support the frame where the cab pushes down on the cab supports.

If or when you have been around these trucks as long as I have you start to notice that a lot of them look like they are bent at the cowl and they have serious problems with the hoods fitting or lining up. That is because the cab sags by twisting the frame rails until the bottom of the cab lays on the top of the frame rail. First notice of it for most guys is that the park brake rod that runs over the frame binds up because the cab is setting on it.

I had this happen to my own truck with the original but modified frame under it. Plus I have seen it on dozens of others over the years. I'd have to dig out some photos of my truck from the 70's or 80's to be able to show it as I don't have an example photo handy at the moment and don't really want to show someone else's truck to point it out.

[Rwalkup]

Thank you guys for your recommendations and comments.