Intermittent stall 1988 Suburban V20 350 TBI - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Silverbullet555 · 04-26-2015, 07:55 PM

I have a 1988 Suburban V20 with a 250TBI motor. About 175K miles on the clock. I do the regular maintenance and have owned it for 10 years or so. Fuel pump was replaced about 6 years ago, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc about 2 years ago. Doesn't get a lot of miles normally, but for the last 3 months, it has been a daily driver.

Driving today, filled it with gas and was heading to my next place. It just up and quit. No warning, no stutter, no nothing. I coasted to a stop and tried to get it to start. I got it to grab a time or two, but it immediately died. As I sat there pondering the issue, I beat on the fuel tank (worked when the last one went out), checked for loose wires, checked fuses, etc.

Pulled the air cleaner and noticed I was getting fuel when I tried to start it, but I could not for the life of me hear the fuel pump. A good samaritan and I tried to figure it out. He laid down next to the fuel tank when I put the key in run and shut it off and he could hear nothing. I found that odd. It seemed that I was getting fuel, but no spark.

90 minutes later and the tow truck had not arrived I got an idea. Wiggle the single wire connector on the sender (I think oil pressure), on the drivers side of the block between cylinders 1 and 3. It fired right up. It was fine all the way home.

I parked it in the garage and shut it off. I could hear the fuel pump. I tried disconnecting that wire before starting, disconnecting it after starting, wiggling it, etc, but could not replicate the stall. To my knowledge, that sender would cut off fuel pressure and not spark.

I'm going to do a tuneup because it's due. Cap, rotor, etc. I'm also changing the fuel pump relay as a prevention measure. I'll change the plug out to a clean one and likely change the oil pressure switch.

Anyone else have any ideas on what I should be looking it or why wiggling that wire would fix it if the engine was already getting fuel?

I know it's a shot in the dark to ask, but I thought I would throw it out.

04-26-2015, 07:55 PM	#1
Silverbullet555 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 25	Intermittent stall 1988 Suburban V20 350 TBI I have a 1988 Suburban V20 with a 250TBI motor. About 175K miles on the clock. I do the regular maintenance and have owned it for 10 years or so. Fuel pump was replaced about 6 years ago, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc about 2 years ago. Doesn't get a lot of miles normally, but for the last 3 months, it has been a daily driver. Driving today, filled it with gas and was heading to my next place. It just up and quit. No warning, no stutter, no nothing. I coasted to a stop and tried to get it to start. I got it to grab a time or two, but it immediately died. As I sat there pondering the issue, I beat on the fuel tank (worked when the last one went out), checked for loose wires, checked fuses, etc. Pulled the air cleaner and noticed I was getting fuel when I tried to start it, but I could not for the life of me hear the fuel pump. A good samaritan and I tried to figure it out. He laid down next to the fuel tank when I put the key in run and shut it off and he could hear nothing. I found that odd. It seemed that I was getting fuel, but no spark. 90 minutes later and the tow truck had not arrived I got an idea. Wiggle the single wire connector on the sender (I think oil pressure), on the drivers side of the block between cylinders 1 and 3. It fired right up. It was fine all the way home. I parked it in the garage and shut it off. I could hear the fuel pump. I tried disconnecting that wire before starting, disconnecting it after starting, wiggling it, etc, but could not replicate the stall. To my knowledge, that sender would cut off fuel pressure and not spark. I'm going to do a tuneup because it's due. Cap, rotor, etc. I'm also changing the fuel pump relay as a prevention measure. I'll change the plug out to a clean one and likely change the oil pressure switch. Anyone else have any ideas on what I should be looking it or why wiggling that wire would fix it if the engine was already getting fuel? I know it's a shot in the dark to ask, but I thought I would throw it out.



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