Manual to Power brakes question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

NJ C10 Guy · 05-17-2015, 09:49 PM

Quick question...

When swapping from manual to power brakes, do I need anything other than the following:

1. Pedal Assembly
2. Brake booster
3. Master cylinder

I'm thinking of changing out my setup now for vacuum assisted brakes. Will I run into needing any additional parts than the ones above? The brake lines and things of that sort that are already in place should be fine and bolt up to the MC, right?

Thanks in advance for the help!

**MikeB** · 05-18-2015, 12:02 AM

I suspect you'll need to fabricate or buy the lines that connect to the MC, because it will be moved farther forward by several inches.

So, the brake pedal setup is different? I guess the power version must have less mechanical leverage.

BTW, my 82 C10 has manual brakes and I am very pleased (almost shocked) at how well they work. Of course it's a relatively light, short wheelbase truck, and I've never hauled anything heavier than a few hundred pounds.

77c10 · 05-18-2015, 08:05 AM

I did this swap a few years ago and only changed the booster, master cylinder and the lines going to the master cylinder from the proportioning vavle. I was able to re-use the original brake pedal with some modification.

NJ C10 Guy · 05-18-2015, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeB

I suspect you'll need to fabricate or buy the lines that connect to the MC, because it will be moved farther forward by several inches.

So, the brake pedal setup is different? I guess the power version must have less mechanical leverage.

BTW, my 82 C10 has manual brakes and I am very pleased (almost shocked) at how well they work. Of course it's a relatively light, short wheelbase truck, and I've never hauled anything heavier than a few hundred pounds.

The manual brake pedal takes a different size pin for the pushrod than the power brake pedal. I really don't have a huge issue with the manual brakes, but power brakes are a nice add-on. I don't know if maybe I should just remove my clutch pedal and keep it as is. I think where the clutch MC goes into the cab through the firewall, there will be a hole left over if I remove it, and I really don't want to have to weld it up. I'm at a crossroads!

**1774btcrew** · 05-18-2015, 03:44 PM

I got your email and will respond. I like power brakes and have had c10 trucks with both. If you have only had manual brakes on one of these you really don't know what you are missing. Manual brakes ARE fine in most situations. I just like have power brakes. It seems to me you are at a good point to upgrade to them.

NJ C10 Guy · 05-18-2015, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1774btcrew

I got your email and will respond. I like power brakes and have had c10 trucks with both. If you have only had manual brakes on one of these you really don't know what you are missing. Manual brakes ARE fine in most situations. I just like have power brakes. It seems to me you are at a good point to upgrade to them.

Ok, thanks. I am at a good point in my build, I just don't want extra expense or additional work I'm not too experienced with like welding closed a hole in the firewall left by the clutch MC.

**1774btcrew** · 05-18-2015, 08:41 PM

The hole in the firewall doesn't have to be welded. Cut out a plate the shape of the mounting area of the clutch MC, drill two holes in it put a bead of silicone on the back and bolt it where the master cylinder bolted. I did something similar to this as my truck had a manual pedal assembly with the rod for the z bar going through the floor when I switch my truck to an auto trans. You can use nice button head allen bolts and it will look clean.

NJ C10 Guy · 05-18-2015, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1774btcrew

The hole in the firewall doesn't have to be welded. Cut out a plate the shape of the mounting area of the clutch MC, drill two holes in it put a bead of silicone on the back and bolt it where the master cylinder bolted. I did something similar to this as my truck had a manual pedal assembly with the rod for the z bar going through the floor when I switch my truck to an auto trans. You can use nice button head allen bolts and it will look clean.

That's a great idea. I made a deal with natedogg on the setup. I'll still have the hydraulic pedals, so keep in touch with me. I'm sure we'll be able to make something work.

NJ C10 Guy · 05-19-2015, 02:46 PM

I removed the hydraulic clutch reservoir, MC and slave cylinder today. To take out the pedal assembly I assume I am going to have to drop or remove the steering column? I also pulled a wire from the main harness. Not sure where it went into. It's yellow. Good thing I have a diagram or I'd be in for some real fun...

77c10 · 05-19-2015, 03:08 PM

Yep, you have to remove the column.

05-17-2015, 09:49 PM	#1
NJ C10 Guy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 437	Manual to Power brakes question Quick question... When swapping from manual to power brakes, do I need anything other than the following: 1. Pedal Assembly 2. Brake booster 3. Master cylinder I'm thinking of changing out my setup now for vacuum assisted brakes. Will I run into needing any additional parts than the ones above? The brake lines and things of that sort that are already in place should be fine and bolt up to the MC, right? Thanks in advance for the help!

05-18-2015, 12:02 AM	#2
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,663	Re: Manual to Power brakes question I suspect you'll need to fabricate or buy the lines that connect to the MC, because it will be moved farther forward by several inches. So, the brake pedal setup is different? I guess the power version must have less mechanical leverage. BTW, my 82 C10 has manual brakes and I am very pleased (almost shocked) at how well they work. Of course it's a relatively light, short wheelbase truck, and I've never hauled anything heavier than a few hundred pounds. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

05-18-2015, 08:05 AM	#3
77c10 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Gallatin, TN Posts: 782	Re: Manual to Power brakes question I did this swap a few years ago and only changed the booster, master cylinder and the lines going to the master cylinder from the proportioning vavle. I was able to re-use the original brake pedal with some modification. __________________ 77 C10, 6.0LS/4L80E, 3:73 12 bolt. Boss 338's 20" x 10" w/ 285/50/20 rear. 20" x 8.5" w/ 245/40/20 front. Vintage Air. Full Autometer gauges recessed in factory bezel (Thanks bigblock73!) Gm Storm Grey Metallic paint "Cool ain't ever cheap and cheap ain't ever cool"

05-18-2015, 03:44 PM	#5
1774btcrew Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 4,604	Re: Manual to Power brakes question I got your email and will respond. I like power brakes and have had c10 trucks with both. If you have only had manual brakes on one of these you really don't know what you are missing. Manual brakes ARE fine in most situations. I just like have power brakes. It seems to me you are at a good point to upgrade to them. __________________ AZPartsLocators on Instagram 1972 Cheyenne Super Short Bed big block "Blackie" 1977 Crew Cab GMC Short bed with 4BT Intercooled Cummins Diesel and a 4L80e "The Junkyard Dog" 1985 Crew Cab Chevy dually with 5.9 Cummins "The Big Dog" This is what my dad liked to be called by the grandkids before he passed so it seems fitting for his old truck.

05-18-2015, 08:41 PM	#7
1774btcrew Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 4,604	Re: Manual to Power brakes question The hole in the firewall doesn't have to be welded. Cut out a plate the shape of the mounting area of the clutch MC, drill two holes in it put a bead of silicone on the back and bolt it where the master cylinder bolted. I did something similar to this as my truck had a manual pedal assembly with the rod for the z bar going through the floor when I switch my truck to an auto trans. You can use nice button head allen bolts and it will look clean. __________________ AZPartsLocators on Instagram 1972 Cheyenne Super Short Bed big block "Blackie" 1977 Crew Cab GMC Short bed with 4BT Intercooled Cummins Diesel and a 4L80e "The Junkyard Dog" 1985 Crew Cab Chevy dually with 5.9 Cummins "The Big Dog" This is what my dad liked to be called by the grandkids before he passed so it seems fitting for his old truck.

05-19-2015, 02:46 PM	#9
NJ C10 Guy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 437	Re: Manual to Power brakes question I removed the hydraulic clutch reservoir, MC and slave cylinder today. To take out the pedal assembly I assume I am going to have to drop or remove the steering column? I also pulled a wire from the main harness. Not sure where it went into. It's yellow. Good thing I have a diagram or I'd be in for some real fun...

05-19-2015, 03:08 PM	#10
77c10 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Gallatin, TN Posts: 782	Re: Manual to Power brakes question Yep, you have to remove the column. __________________ 77 C10, 6.0LS/4L80E, 3:73 12 bolt. Boss 338's 20" x 10" w/ 285/50/20 rear. 20" x 8.5" w/ 245/40/20 front. Vintage Air. Full Autometer gauges recessed in factory bezel (Thanks bigblock73!) Gm Storm Grey Metallic paint "Cool ain't ever cheap and cheap ain't ever cool"



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