Remove front a-arms/spring tension when frame only??

[JamieGallien]

I just ordered my suspension parts to redo the whole front end, but I'm running into a problem with dis-assembly. I can't find spring compressors to fit/work and I'm afraid I can't use the floor jack method because I have the thing stripped down to frame only...there's just not enough weight to compress the spring and let the a-arm down safely. You guys got any ideas? Surely someone else got down to frame only and decided that was a good time to do the front end? Am I stuck waiting until the truck is reassembled to do this? Thanks for the input!

[GVDobler]

I have the same problem.

I was thinking of metal pieces/bars across top and bottom. They sell threaded rods at hardware stores. By putting the metal bars with holes drilled, across the top and bottom, then threaded rods to hold them together. Make sure you would have enough threads to let out enough to take the pressure off the springs so they would fall out.

Warning:: this is not a tested method and I have no idea what I'm talking about.

[63burban]

Don't try to build something, there is a lot more pressure there than you can imagine. Most parts stores have spring compressors you can rent. I have a spring compressor and it works real good.

[KALAHEO]

Run a chain under the floor jack then over the frame. This will keep the frame from lifting up when you put pressure on the lower arm. I did mine the same way only I cut the springs with a plasma cutter.

[53Sparky]

Please be aware that there is a tremendous amount of potential energy in a compressed spring. If you design a device to compress it, make sure you are very careful with your safety precautions. I remember hearing about a spring that shot out of place when one of my dad's friends was working on his vehicle. According to the story, it narrowly missed taking his face off.

[JamieGallien]

Originally Posted by 53Sparky

Please be aware that there is a tremendous amount of potential energy in a compressed spring. If you design a device to compress it, make sure you are very careful with your safety precautions. I remember hearing about a spring that shot out of place when one of my dad's friends was working on his vehicle. According to the story, it narrowly missed taking his face off.

I'm well aware of that for sure. That's why I'm concerned with figuring out a safe way to do this.

Originally Posted by KALAHEO

Run a chain under the floor jack then over the frame. This will keep the frame from lifting up when you put pressure on the lower arm. I did mine the same way only I cut the springs with a plasma cutter.

THAT may be a workable idea. I'll look into that. Thanks!

Originally Posted by 63burban

Don't try to build something, there is a lot more pressure there than you can imagine. Most parts stores have spring compressors you can rent. I have a spring compressor and it works real good.

I have been unsuccessful in finding one that works in the small area of a 65 a-arm...

Originally Posted by GVDobler

I have the same problem.

I was thinking of metal pieces/bars across top and bottom. They sell threaded rods at hardware stores. By putting the metal bars with holes drilled, across the top and bottom, then threaded rods to hold them together. Make sure you would have enough threads to let out enough to take the pressure off the springs so they would fall out.

Warning:: this is not a tested method and I have no idea what I'm talking about.

I would be concerned about the bars slipping off. There's really nothing for them to seat against to keep them from moving. I considered a strong ratchet strap, but that would have the same potential problem of moving or tearing.

[The Rocknrod]

If you have a torch . . .

[62 Barnfind]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

If you have a torch . . .

Like he said. If you don't have one call a local welder to come out and cut it. It probably will be cheaper and safer in the long run.

[wbc409]

If you are going to be installing new springs I would heat up the old ones with a torch. You don't need to cut them. Just get them red hot and it will ruin the spring. The spring pressure will drop dramatically.

[pimpston65]

if you have an autozone or most autoparts store will rent them, thats what i did. when u take it back you get your money back!!!

[JamieGallien]

Thanks for the options guys. Still thinking... ;-)

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

If you have a torch . . .

That's exactly what I do. Just carefully reach in and torch a couple of the spring coils and all that stored energy is released. Then take off the spindle. No sweat.

[63longfleet]

another option for you is add weight. my truck currently has 8 bags of quickcreet stacked on the crossmember to simulate the weight of the motor/sheet metal for the exact same reason

[forestb]

remember if you are planning on putting a spring back in you will need the same weight to install the new ones unless you are going vary low and will not need to compress the spring or you are installing air bags.

[Captainfab]

Here is how I have done this. First remove the shock. Then remove the cotter pin on the lower ball joint and back off the nut, but leave the nut on by a couple of threads. Next break the fit between the balljoint and the spindle. I usually smack the side of the spindle near the balljoint with a 2-3# hammer until it 'pops'. Next stand on top of the suspension crossmember and start removing the nuts on the lower control arm shaft U-bolts. You can remove both nuts on one U-bolt and use a punch to drive it thru the crossmember. Then go to the other U-bolt and start removing the nuts, leaving both on by a couple of threads. Then little by little remove the nuts completely. You may or may not have to use a punch to drive the U-bolt out. Of course once the second U-bolt is released be prepared. The spring will slam the lower control arm to the ground, and depending on the working height, the spring may or may not come out from it's pocket. You just want to be sure to be on top of the suspension crossmember and not have your feet near the lower control arm. For an added safety measure, you could prior to starting, run a chain thru the spring and out the spring pocket hole in the LCA to secure the spring to the LCA.

[joedoh]

one way is a pair of long spring pliers, they look like giant pruners with claws on the end. the guy at the local hydraulics place had a 42" set just for compressing 1 ton springs to put in g bodys. you will need an extra pair of hands for these. otherwise:

I just did this on an s10, smaller truck but same thing. no body, not enough weight to compress the springs even an inch.

frame on jack stands, jack under lower balljoint so it JUST holds it off the stand on that side.
take out cotter pin in lower ball joint, back the nut off a couple threads, maybe to the top of the balljoint stem but dont remove it.
whack it around with a nice 10lb sledge, dont hit the nut or the balljoint, whack around on the spindle where it attaches. do not hit it like you are merely suggesting it come loose, hit it hard.
the spindle will come loose from the balljoint stem and take up the slack you gave it.
if it doesnt take up all the slack, you are golden, take the nut the rest of the way off and slowly lower the jack. if it does take up all the slack:

you still have the jack under the balljoint, jack it up a little higher off the jackstand to give yourself some compression room. get your wife or a second pair of hands to help. mine is petite and her lightweight frame did absolutely nothing, so I stood on the framerail instead. this will give you a little slack on the balljoint castle nut and your wife or friend can just spin the castle nut off.
step carefully off the framerail, and it will release the rest of the tension, not violently, just enough, my balljoint stem stayed in the spindle but no threads showing.

there is a lot of potential energy in a compressed spring but it is exponential to how much it is compressed. with no weight on the front end its not a lot, most bad things happen when the spring is compressed to ride height with a motor and front clip in there. In fact now that I think about it, I just took a second frame apart with no motor and no weight and undid the upper arms with a jack under the lower and peeled them off the upper mounts with a big crowbar, then let the lower down off the jack. not even a pop.

[IMG][/IMG]

[JamieGallien]

Thanks for the input guys. I plan to reuse the old spring, so I can't cut it or heat it. Capn and joedoh's method will work, but then I still have to get the spring compressed to re-install everything. I'm thinking that I will just have to put the cab back on and set the engine in so I can use the jack under the a-arm to put everything back anyway, so I might as well wait till I get to that point to remove them...I think....

[Crazy Rusty]

I think you all are over thinking this. Just cut the frame in half, get a new front end that's done, and weld it back together. BOOM, done...

I did this on my Chevelle and had to have a party so I could get a bunch of guys to stand on the frame while I compressed the spring with a chain around it (wrapped/bolted around the frame).

[forestb]

There was someone on this sight that used a huge amount of zip ties to keep his spring compressed while installing it. I guess he used a spring compressor and then attached the ties and then took off the spring compressor so that the spring would fit. I guess bailing wire could work for that also. I recommend you wait until you have the cab and motor installed. You can't drive it until then anyways. Be safe and be patent.

[jtrichard]

63LONG has the right IDEA ...get the frame well braced (jack stands ect.) place some 2x6s across the frame just above cross member and go to home depot and get about 10 bags of 90 pound concrete mix and when your done take it back to depot

[forestb]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

63LONG has the right IDEA ...get the frame well braced (jack stands ect.) place some 2x6s across the frame just above cross member and go to home depot and get about 10 bags of 90 pound concrete mix and when your done take it back to depot

On the way home from the home depot don't forget to stop at the chiropractor.

[JamieGallien]

Originally Posted by forestb

There was someone on this sight that used a huge amount of zip ties to keep his spring compressed while installing it. I guess he used a spring compressor and then attached the ties and then took off the spring compressor so that the spring would fit. I guess bailing wire could work for that also. I recommend you wait until you have the cab and motor installed. You can't drive it until then anyways. Be safe and be patent.

That's pretty much what I've decided....don't EVER pray for patience...it'll be a while coming....

[russellrox]

http://www.princessauto.com/en/searc...ing+compressor
the 42.00 spring compressor at the bottom of the page is what I just used, I was in your same position of how to compress springs while truck is stripped down, I ended up using the threaded part of the compressor to the top of the spring near the upper control arm, the bottom part that slides freely just above the threaded rod portion. I basically used the bottom of the control arm where its cut out in the middle where the spring sits, as an anchor then just thread bolt up until spring is caged then remove upper balljoint and separate.

[JamieGallien]

Here's what I settled on as a solution. I drilled out one of the body mount washers just enough to pass the bolt of the spring compressor. I also used an old pulley to add some width. I'll run this up through the hole in the bottom of the lower a-arm and compress down from the top of the spring. Close to what some of you suggested. Problem solved!