Watts vs Panhard

[bruin_d]

I'm about to enter the newly established (by me...) "panhard bar toss" competition in the next Olympics. Seriously though....this thing is on my last nerve. I'm tired of how much the freakin rear end shifts through the suspension travel. Maybe they're ok on static dropped stuff. I don't know.....

Are there any lowered guys out there who prefer the panhard setup? Maybe I'm just retarded and don't know how to set it up (also a strong possibility).

[andrewmp6]

To me a panhard bar is good if you drag race or have a static suspension on a daily driver.Now if your on air ride or pro touring then a watts link starts to really shine.The panhard bar has a arch to its swing through the suspension cycle.A watts link stays almost perfectly straight through the same suspension cycle.

[BR3W CITY]

3wheeling on a panhard = suspension

3wheeling on watts link = suspension

My summer-driven-sorta-pro-street-truck has a panhard and it works fine; considering the fact that with a 12bolt, heavy wheels and drag radials, the amount of movement in my suspension actually doesn't flip the truck over or twist itself to shreds.

If I built a pro touring truck that actually had to handle like a modern car and/or have like 10" of travel, then watts link. IMO its like the 4-link vs trailing arm discussion....both things sorta do the same thing in sorta the same manner but in a slightly different way.

[t76turbo]

I don't know enough to argue for one of the other.

But I can tell you that after just having installed my bags and the Porterbuilt track bar/panhard bar, it doesn't move that much at all. I can tell a big difference between the porterbuilt one which is very long and the one the previous owner put on it which was just over half the length. The Porterbuilt bar goes from just outside the drivers side frame rail to the inside of the passengers side trailing arm. The previous owner had a bar going from the inside of the drivers side frame rail to the right side of the differential cover.

I have very little movement of the rear end left to right through the bags range of travel.


What bar do you have now?

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by t76turbo

I don't know enough to argue for one of the other.

But I can tell you that after just having installed my bags and the Porterbuilt track bar/panhard bar, it doesn't move that much at all. I can tell a big difference between the porterbuilt one which is very long and the one the previous owner put on it which was just over half the length. The Porterbuilt bar goes from just outside the drivers side frame rail to the inside of the passengers side trailing arm. The previous owner had a bar going from the inside of the drivers side frame rail to the right side of the differential cover.

I have very little movement of the rear end left to right through the bags range of travel.


What bar do you have now?

For a panhard, longer is better, as it will minimize the lateral motion (by simple geometry).

K

[tinydb84]

Great diagram Keith.

Do you have room to angle the bar downward slightly at ride height that way it moves out then back in through the arch? That way it minimize the difference between aired up and aired out even further.

When I was laying out my suspension (still not installed). I had just under 2 inches of lateral movement for 9 inches of travel using a 29 inch panhard bar. I will likely not be using the 9 inches of travel and I will be angling the bar down just a bit as well to further decrease the lateral movement difference.

[bruin_d]

I have the large step notch setup from Porterbuilt that comes with a panhard setup. I just don't like having that much movement through the entire cycle.

[dv8customs]

I have installed both, and don't have a preference. The watts gives no movement but a proper panhard will have minimal movement. You said you don't like the amount of movement you get through the entire cycle but how is the movement from slightly above and below ride height?

[dubds10]

Go Watts, 3-link or 4-link on a bagged ride. I hate 2-links with panhard when bagging stuff. The movement & handling just isn't there compared to the other setups. Static is fine but bagged I prefer more.

[simenad]

Panhard bar allows diff to travel up and down in a slight arc, longer the rod, the less of an arc. Watts link has no arc diff moves directly up and down. One other option is a triangulated 4 link as it will stop the side to side movement without a panhard or watts link.

[NEWFISHER]

I mapped out all 3 choices and purchased all 3 to mock up and play with, you just cant wrap your head around all 3 including trailing arms with a couple set ups reading on line. Having bagged a few rigs, I kinda had an idea going into it but wanted a stock floor in the back of my burb. No trusses, raised floors etc. I did end up with a diff bubble and 2 gradual laser cut round notches that peek up through the old wood bed floor and 9 inches of travel with bags mounted ahead of the axle and a 2 link set up with the longest pan hard bar I could build using 2 5/8 johnny joints from the rock crawl world. Its not a slalom couse runner, but rides nice and lays out.
I strongly agree with the others, the longer the bar the less swing or arc pulling the axle side to side. Setting it up static as parallel to the tube the better. A watts link works great too, just took up to much real estate for me. Triangulated is the high tech answer to several issues, but also takes up the floor when laid out. Parrallel 4 link and a watts or a pan hard works if you have the room outboard the rails, I wouldnt run one inboard unless its a straight line shooter and need it for tire clearance. Chevy truck trailing arms and the correct pan hard I think is the best all around answer. I didnt have room in a 46 frame to crash the arms into the frame without running huge blocks, but am a fan of this simple set up.

Ps.....pm me if you need A SMOKIN deal on a watts or tri 4 set up with bag brackets etc.

[twinsemi]

Panhard bars need to be level at mid-travel and for that to be at ride height for the diagram and discussion above to be useful. If not, then you will be moving a bit more. Also, what kind of lateral movement of your wheels can you live with? (tire-to-fender, tire-to-frame, etc)