1962 C20 Almost Restore Build

[Crazy Rusty]

We'll see how close I get to an actual restore but thought I would post up what I've done so far. Bought 5/14/15 just so I can have a little project on the side of my other projects. Since its a 3/4 I don't plan on making many modifications and just keeping it as a work truck. I'll be working on rebuilding and toning down a 350 race engine I have to put in it in place of the 283 when I go to rebuild that.

PO must have used it as a camper of sorts as there were, literally, a dozen toggle switches in the cab. In the glove box, the ash tray, dash, under the dash, on the door, above the door... it was crazy. At one point there must have been two more gas tanks on it as well.

Here are some pics on the progress.

[Crazy Rusty]

Not a terrible truck to start off with, definite rust issues but that just takes some work.

[Crazy Rusty]

I was not a fan of the hand made woodwork in the cab so I took that out. Which is great because now I have plenty of holes in the dash to use as grounds...

[Crazy Rusty]

Found a few unexpected surprises. A hidden tray on the drivers side under the bed and a hidden box on the passengers side. The tray was just a crappy piece of wood but the box on the other side is actually very functional. I may keep that.

[Crazy Rusty]

First thing to change out was the dash. I've never been a fan of idiot lights. I spent $500 getting SS gauges into my 69 chevelle but was able to get these deluxe gauges for about half of that. The fuel, speedo, and battery gauges are definitely working. Havent been able to try the oil (cant find an aftermarket line to screw into it) or the temp (need a new sender), but they all look fine.

[Crazy Rusty]

I don't have the funds to blast the cab and replace the bad rockers/etc... yet so I just did a quick POR15, caulking, sheetmetal job on it (through the recommendation of you good folks). The drivers side didn't need any patching but the passenger side is pretty bad. I'm going to have to replace the door at some point as the bottom half of it is just pure rust (though covered nicely with bondo)

[Crazy Rusty]

Installed a new heater core (apparently this one wasn't working...), radio, and reassembled the interior, with exception to the heater panel which has the screw holes broken off... not sure what to do about that. Eventually I'd like to weld in the fix for the radio cutout as I'd prefer a more stock look.

[Crazy Rusty]

Purchased a new bed kit from LMC.


Put on four coats of Spar Marine Polyurethane Varnish and that seems to have really soaked in well. Before doing so though I cut water drainage holes in the boards every 12" per LMCs instructions. Seemed like a good idea in the NW. I probably made my holes a bit big but it was the size of the one chisel I had. I used a small circular saw to cut the lines and then hit it once with the chisel.

[Crazy Rusty]

Bed came off pretty easy though I did have to use the plasma cutter on almost every frame bolt. I was not pleased about the two hidden bolts connecting the front support member to the frame. I didn't see that in any of the diagrams. I also took off that monstrosity of a bumper which, in addition to the four large extremely rusted bolts, was WELDED to the frame. Took some cutting time to get through those welds... upside down. I think I'm going to clean, repair, and paint the bumper and put it back on.

Getting the bed off the truck all by myself was quite a bad scenario. Although afterwards I saw some pics on a thread which showed how to do it with a hoist. I used that later on and it was obviously much easier. Otherwise I used pure back breaking force to get it off and then stand it up.

Snapped a shot of that sweet hideaway box.

[Crazy Rusty]

Took out a few of the dozen hooks that were bolted into the sides of the truck. For the love of donuts - Don't be the PO that wants an exterior hook (I don't like that but ok fine) and then uses a TWO inch bolt to secure it. The hook is like a 1/4" and the sheet metal is like 1/8"? A half inch bolt would work. Maybe, MAYBE an inch if you're paranoid. After that bolt and nut have been on there for 20 years and the next guy has to have his arm stuck all the way up a hidden crevice of the side of the bed holding a wrench for 15 min... well lets just say it gets tiring. But I digress, holes filled

[Crazy Rusty]

With the bed off I wasn't sure what to do with the frame. I will eventually blast it and paint it but for now I just put some POR15 on the top of the rails. I don't know why... probably like most things, because I had it available.

[Crazy Rusty]

I also thought I'd slater on some of that good stuff on the cross supports after I got them off.

[Crazy Rusty]

Finally I was able to lay the outside boards. Once I got those in I lowered the bed down and mocked up the rest of the wood. Then I picked it up with the hoist in preparation for moving it back on the truck... but ran out of time.

Once it is on there I'll drill the holes for the frame bolts and align all the wood properly.

[Crazy Rusty]

Once the bed is finished I'm going to tackle some of the wiring issues, put the battery back in its original location, and do something about the exhaust that's rusted and blown out in three places.

[Crazy Rusty]

After spending a half hour trying to do the bolts up side down I lifted the bed back up on its front. I don't know how other people are doing this but I do it by hand... It's a bit tiring, that thing is very heavy, even more so full of wood. Took me about 3 hours to get all the bolts in, wood even, and tightened down. Also made it very easy to drill the holes for the frame bolts.

[TJ's Chevy]

Bed wood looks nice. Looks like it'll be a nice driver.

[Crazy Rusty]

Finally got the bed back on the truck. It amazes me that I was able to lean this thing up and down pivoting on the front sheet metal and only got a few scratches.

[TJ's Chevy]

Good work. looks good.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by Crazy Rusty

First thing to change out was the dash. I've never been a fan of idiot lights. I spent $500 getting SS gauges into my 69 chevelle but was able to get these deluxe gauges for about half of that. The fuel, speedo, and battery gauges are definitely working. Havent been able to try the oil (cant find an aftermarket line to screw into it) or the temp (need a new sender), but they all look fine.

I used this fitting to run an -3AN stainless line to my factory oil pressure gauge.

Parts # link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nex-16150

and Auto Meter Kit 3235 to go from the fitting to the block....

I may have the old fittings I use to run with the plastic line. I can check if you want me too. I know the line I threw away, but the fittings I probably would have kept.

[Crazy Rusty]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

I used this fitting to run an -3AN stainless line to my factory oil pressure gauge.

Parts # link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nex-16150

and Auto Meter Kit 3235 to go from the fitting to the block....

I may have the old fittings I use to run with the plastic line. I can check if you want me too. I know the line I threw away, but the fittings I probably would have kept.

Thanks for the info, I found that in another thread as well. Hooked it up this past weekend and it works great! First time I've purchased a gauge cluster off of ebay and had every gauge work . I just got a Sun tach and sender (no batteries) and a 60s Pontiac vacuum gauge so those will go in once I get them working.

[1963c-10]

Great....Glad you got the oil gauge up and going

[Crazy Rusty]

Mocked and installed the new underbed gas tank from POI this past weekend. Overall it went alright though I came to realize the only thing made for the 62 was the tank, all the other components they just threw together so I had to make some modifications.

It's hard to see (I'll post a rear shot once the install is finished) but the tank sits nice and high behind the bumper.


I thought there would be less clearance between the tank and rails but there is a good 1/2" of play which is nice to have since I had to work around all the other holes that were drilled in the frame.


Bolting it up was a breeze


I don't know how anyone else does this but I was not in the mood to unbolt the bed to measure the gas inlet and couldn't figure out how to do it with it being out. I measured the red line (where I knew the wood ended to the support) and then stuck a measuring tape along the top of the tank from the front, pushed it all the way back, and measured from that support to the edge of the gas inlet which gave me the blue line measurement and I added the two together. That was really just a guess though as you can barely see the inlet (I had it wrapped in blue tape).


I think it came to something like 4 1/4" from the back but then I just had to guess on the exact placement side to side. I got lucky though, my test drill hole was almost exactly centered on the inlet. I drilled that out a bit and then kept making circular drill holes. Once I got it mostly centered I put the rubber tube over the top and marked my circle and cut it out with a small jigsaw.

[Crazy Rusty]

I had to cut down the top inlet to 1 1/2" as it was too long and would hit the gas inlet... that was leaving out the rubber hose. I don't see how that would ever work. Easily 2" too long.


Cut the rubber hose down to give about a 1/2" gap between the bottom inlet and the top inlet.


Got it back up and mounted.. looks pretty good!


I've been driving the rig around more lately to empty the in cab tank. The sending unit doesn't come in until Wednesday (another thing I had to buy since the POI came with a 90 ohm). Once that's in I'll mount the tank permanently and then just have to run a fuel line. I may just have a local shop make one for me.

[rcnutt]

Nice write up. I'm thinking I'd like to use that tank setup for my 62.where'd you buy it from?

[Crazy Rusty]

Originally Posted by rcnutt

Nice write up. I'm thinking I'd like to use that tank setup for my 62.where'd you buy it from?

I got mine from here - https://www.performanceonline.com/home.php.

If I had to do it again I would probably just buy the tank and then the pieces separately. Since their sending unit doesn't match, the bed inlet needs modification, and I could have made my own supports for the tank ears it seems like they overcharge for that. The supports are just 2 straight metal pieces (maybe 1" x 8" x 1/4" thick) with three holes and nuts welded on.

I also didn't know about the other tanks that might fit. There was a thread a few days ago that mentioned a few tanks (a corvette and a van?) that would fit. Probably could have picked one of those up for $100, had it cleaned, etc.. for another $100.

But, minus the $$, I'm pretty happy with it.