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05-31-2015, 08:07 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Brighton, WI
Posts: 504
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bad ignition switch?? im stumped
could somebody help me a l;little bit here.. have a weird problem
im running a painless wiring harness, my old ignition switch (has been sitting around for about 3 years due to the restoration process) and when i turn the key to the on position the engine stays cranking, it also remains cranking when in the accessory position and also in the start position. thinking it may be the painless ignition plug, i pulled it off and checked the wires and they all matched to the correct positions on the back of the ignition switch (accessory went to accessory, solenoid went to solenoid, etc) so that ruled out any crossed wires in the plug itself. so my next step was to check under the hood, with the starter solenoid wire off the starter i turned the key to the on position and proceeded to check all the engine connections for power (distributor, electric choke, etc) i even checked some under dash connections and they all had power just like they should in the on position, the trouble is, even in the on position my starter solenoid wire remains on. my next step was to take the plug back off the ignition and run a jumper wire from the battery wire on the ignition plug to the battery terminal on the ignition switch, and in the off position i tested all the terminals, and just like they should they were all off, so i turned the key to the on position and all the terminals turned on (accessory, ignition) but the starter solenoid terminal still remained on/hot. im not the best with wiring but i tried troubleshooting everything to the best of my knowledge, and everything leads me back to a bad ignition switch, what do you guys think? p.s. this is a brand new harness, and the ignition switch worked flawlessly when the truck was still together, i dont know if something got corroded up or sticky on the inside from sitting? |
05-31-2015, 10:53 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 3,541
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Re: bad ignition switch?? im stumped
You might want to move this to electrical where the wizards hangout. Here is a thread that is helpful.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=604881
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Scott |
06-01-2015, 08:14 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Sacramento,California
Posts: 696
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Re: bad ignition switch?? im stumped
it sounds like you ran a switched hot to the start side of the solenoid. I would pull the start wire off the solenoid and have someone turn on the key, it should not stay powered unless you are turning the key. if it does, you likely have the wrong wire. It is not very easy for the contacts to stay connected in the switch, especially in aux. If that is not the problem, then you may want to look at the solenoid itself, it may be sticking, but this would not likely be the issue if it stops when the key gets turned off.
edit: wow, after reading that again, sounds like you already hit what I was suggesting, it sounds like either they mislabeled the wire for your starter, one of the wires is hooked up wrong, or 2 wires are crimped together somewhere.
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Built not bought! My dad always tried to convince me HEI was pointless! Welding is a lot like sex, you don't have to be great with the rod as long as you thoroughly prep the surface and your good at grinding My build : 68 C10 Short Bed Conversion |
06-01-2015, 01:39 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Brighton, WI
Posts: 504
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Re: bad ignition switch?? im stumped
the big thing that makes me believe its the switch itself is when i take the switch off of the plug and out of the dash i run a jumper wire from a 12v source to the terminal labeled battery on the back of the switch, even with the plug disconnected and it being hot wired to work, when i turn the key to the on position, or to the accessory position, the starter solenoid terminal still has electricity running to it, im using a power probe to diagnose all of this and can see that the starter solenoid terminal still has 12 volts running through it, which would stand to reason why the engine continues to crank.. i believe with this method that would rule out a mistake make in the wire harness itself.. but who knows...
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