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06-22-2015, 04:59 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Lyman, SC
Posts: 734
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Radiator Question
I'm about to ad AC to my 1972 C10 that I've swapped a 2005 5.3l into. I'm running the stock C10, 2 row radiator and utilizing the mechanical fan on the 5.3l. Engine and transmission are both stock.
With adding AC, should I consider upgrading to a 4 row radiator or will the stock 2 row handle everything OK? Thanks - Matt
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Matt Criswell - Lyman, SC 1972 Chevy Cheyenne SWB - Build: Porterbuilt State 1 Front & Rear, Bolt in Notch, McGaughys 2.5 Drop Spindles, Boyd Welding Fuel Tank UPSTATE SC GM TRUCK CLUB: FACEBOOK WEBSITE |
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06-22-2015, 10:30 PM
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
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Re: Radiator Question
Is your existing Fan & Shroud moving enough CFM to support a Condenser? (especially at Idle)
Condenser efficiency plays a BIG role. Your 2-row Copper/Brass should work OK...Pretending it IS in good shape. |
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06-23-2015, 09:38 AM
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#3 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Lyman, SC
Posts: 734
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Re: Radiator Question
Quote:
I'm looking at the Vintage Air system, so I would think their condenser would be efficient. My radiator is in pretty good shape. It wasn't very old when i bought the truck, and it has no damage and it hasn't had any repairs.
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Matt Criswell - Lyman, SC 1972 Chevy Cheyenne SWB - Build: Porterbuilt State 1 Front & Rear, Bolt in Notch, McGaughys 2.5 Drop Spindles, Boyd Welding Fuel Tank UPSTATE SC GM TRUCK CLUB: FACEBOOK WEBSITE |
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06-23-2015, 12:12 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Independence Mo
Posts: 4,118
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Re: Radiator Question
I just checked your build thread, and it looks like you have the fan in the shroud right, so you are going to be moving enough air. I've set all my trucks up that way and they never had cooling problems. That said, they all had at least a 3 row radiator. In fact that's the smallest radiator that came stock in a V-8 automatic truck with air, but LS engines seem easier to cool, so you might be alright with the 2 row. Personally, I would just try it, it won't cost you anything, and if it doesn't work, then look into a bigger radiator.
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My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html 5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html |
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06-24-2015, 07:22 AM
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#5 |
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Old member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S.
Posts: 19,936
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Re: Radiator Question
Matt you can buy a brand new one for less than $200.00 from O Reilly's, the only thing it want have the inlet on the right side for a cleaner look.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...yword=radiator When mine goes I plan to buy this one. http://www.rndfabrication.com/C10middle.html
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1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71  Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs. |
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