Why do I keep having to replace my starter?

[Chevy4x4chick]

My truck is an '84 Chevy K30 4x4 with an 8.1. I bought it 2 years ago, with that engine in it, so don't know anything about the swap. Part of me wishes I would've bought one with a good ol' stock 350 in it, but it's a blast to drive...when it's not dead in my driveway. My starter is toast for the 3rd time in 2 years, and this truck is not a daily driver. The second one I installed myself by watching a YouTube video (yes I'm a girl lol). So, I thought maybe I did something wrong. The third one I had a friend who's been working on Chevy trucks for over 30 years install. So before I go fork over money for yet another starter, I need to figure out what is causing this. The truck is very cold starting, definitely not a fire it up and go type. Ideas, hints, comments?

[geezer#99]

More info needed!
Does it crank over?
Does it crank slow when hot?
Do you have headers?
What intake and carb?

[Blessed66]

I have to echo geezer's concerns. We need some more information.

However, that being said, I've worked for some parts stores in the past and some of the more common issues I've run across are this;

How tight are you getting the terminals? I've seen it many times where a nut on the solenoid gets cranked down a little too hard. This winds up cracking the cap and leads to a pretty quick failure of the starter. I've seen novice DIYers and independent repair shops make this mistake. It happens.

Is oil possibly leaking onto or into the starter? The running joke I've had for years is that you shouldn't have to change the oil in your starter/alternator to make it perform as expected. You'd be surprised how often this happens.

Are you getting the correct starter for your application? Parts guys can be pretty ignorant (I've had to train dozens) and if you say "1984 Chevy K30" that's what they will go to. Depending on what it came out of (8.1 being, likely, the Vortec 8100 L18) you could have multiple options to choose from. GM had a couple of years, admittedly in the small blocks, where we had options between direct drive and PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) and the only way to know was to compare to the unit installed on the truck.

Like mentioned earlier, more info would help. But this is just a former parts guy's 2 cents to get you started.

[Dead Parrot]

More info needed. What about the starters are failing? Is it the same thing each time? Do you have a tilt steering column? Those tend to have ignition linkage/switch issues that can mimic a dead starter. Have you replaced the battery cables? Those can have internal hidden corrosion that can cause no starts.

[cadillac_al]

I think the hard starting may be a clue and could lead to starter abuse.

[motornut]

I'd check is the brace in place for the starter,some starters need shims,
how are the flywheel teeth?

[MalibuSSwagon]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

I think the hard starting may be a clue and could lead to starter abuse.

Yes right here. Do you have original cooked and corroded battery cables? Old wire may look fine on the outside, but inside you can find black corrosion that causes hard starts due to higher resistance.

Also, do you have exhaust headers or manifolds? Headers usually have little clearance to the starter and can cook it in a short amount of time.

[93M6Formula]

Slow cranking, corroded cables, bad grounds, and weak batteries will kill a starter in short order if not taken care of.

[Tom]

$10 says your using one from a generic parts store. Went threw 3 starters in 3 weeks on my 98 when I had bought a brand new, lifetime warranty from checker auto. Sure they swapped em out free, but that didn't keep me from being stranded or doing starters in a parking lot over and over. Finally got a refund and ordered a remy on rockauto. It lasted much much longer.

[Bigstevex4]

Originally Posted by 93M6Formula

Slow cranking, corroded cables, bad grounds, and weak batteries will kill a starter in short order if not taken care of.

Get a new battery they will kill a starter faster than any thing.

[Blessed66]

Originally Posted by Bigstevex4

Get a new battery they will kill a starter faster than any thing.

This made me laugh more than I'd like to admit. For good reasons, I promise.

[andrewmp6]

Did you get one of them cheap life time auto zone starters?If so thats the problem their life time parts mean you spend a life time replacing them left and right.If its not that then its something wrong electrical on the truck.

[Liberty]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Did you get one of them cheap life time auto zone starters?If so thats the problem their life time parts mean you spend a life time replacing them left and right.If its not that then its something wrong electrical on the truck.

I've had surprisingly good luck with Duralast parts in my truck. Now NAPA parts is another more frustrating story...

[MalibuSSwagon]

True, as long as you get the right one. I got a Duralast Gold starter and it lasted 5 years on my truck, getting abused and constantly heatsoaked. In fact it was still good when I turned it in for the warranty, the guy at the counter felt bad for me because I was telling him it would not turn over when hot, and gave me another. The Gold starter was made in China. But he gave me a regular Duralast one, which was made in Mexico and a complete piece of junk. Didn't even last 6 months before completely dying.

Now would I buy another AZ starter? Nope! Buy an OEM quality starter, like the Denso gear reduction that came on 8.1L's from the factory.