OEM disappering!!

[Skunksmash]

...

That is all.

[Blessed66]

Sold AC Delco for years, I feel your pain.

[PS - PN#10457702. I purchased at least two of them. Go google that PN. ]

[Skunksmash]

It says that's an optispark distributor.

Also, is there another part company that might make high enough quality parts, that's at least somewhat comparable to ACdelco? I buy ACdelco cause they're pretty much the best parts for your GM product. But maybe there's a second best, that isn't too bad? All those others in the pic... I've never even heard of most of the brands these days. Remember Borg/Warner used to be sold at Oriellys, and they seemed to be half decent parts.

Its even more of a let down, because I paid to have the thing replaced 3 years ago, and the tank drained and all this other stuff that had to go with it. Cost me a bunch of money. Now I'm going to be replacing it myself, and its probably just going to die again. Lets see what anger smilies we have here...

[SCOTI]

I feel similarly & try to purchase A/C Delco when possible despite price. But... I swapped both fuel pumps while my bed was off since it made sense & was a preventitive maint type logic.

One of them has already failed w/only 1-2hrs of use. Made in Mexico....

[Blessed66]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

It says that's an optispark distributor.

Indeed it is. The application I purchased it for was a 1994 Camaro Z28 with the LT1 V8. Those were the good old days. Except for it being a very expensive distributor.

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

Also, is there another part company that might make high enough quality parts, that's at least somewhat comparable to ACdelco? I buy ACdelco cause they're pretty much the best parts for your GM product. But maybe there's a second best, that isn't too bad? All those others in the pic... I've never even heard of most of the brands these days. Remember Borg/Warner used to be sold at Oriellys, and they seemed to be half decent parts.

Its even more of a let down, because I paid to have the thing replaced 3 years ago, and the tank drained and all this other stuff that had to go with it. Cost me a bunch of money. Now I'm going to be replacing it myself, and its probably just going to die again. Lets see what anger smilies we have here...

BW was decent. I sold a lot of Standard Motor Products, too. Don't know where you're at in Texas, but I worked for ABC Auto Parts for a while - Tyler, Whitehouse, Kilgore, Diboll, finished as a manager. We sold AC and Standard. Honestly? I like AC Delco, but their reputation as being "direct OE replacement" felt more like a legacy slogan than anything else. When I sold plugs for a later model engine (6.0 or 8.1, don't remember) in Delco and Denso branded plugs were in the box... that didn't sit right with me.

If you can find a quality part at a reasonable price, I say go with it. Just my two cents.

[Brennan]

For what it's worth, I just purchased 2 of the FV5's, (a few lines up), they seem like good quality, work perfectly.

[Jeepwm69]

I bought a Delco EGR valve for my 95 GMC and it was a "universal fit" POS. I sent it back.

[Skunksmash]

I always heard that ACdelco and Motorcraft were basically OEM GM and Ford parts. That if you went to the dealer, that's what you were really getting. So in buying these brands, you'd get OEM quality parts. Did that used to be true?

I can see now, from these posts, that its not anymore. Maybe it is for brand new stuff, but not past about 5 years old. As for finding quality substitutes, I guess you just have to keep spending money and keep trying brands, until you get lucky and hit the jackpot.

Makes me want to come up with my own. I'm sure there are way better fuel tank selector switches out there, that could just be rigged up to fit the truck. Something off a boat maybe. Might be a little bigger, but I wouldn't care as long as it lasted.

[UKNOWME]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

I always heard that ACdelco and Motorcraft were basically OEM GM and Ford parts. That if you went to the dealer, that's what you were really getting. So in buying these brands, you'd get OEM quality parts. Did that used to be true?

Yes and no. Still the same parts as sold by dealer but may be cheaper line. As far as ACDelco is concerned they offer a good, better, best line in many products. Best being OE and good & better being.... Well good and better than aftermarket I guess.

[Jeramy]

We offer a full acdelco line at the parts store where i work and i move quite a bit of it. that being said we also sell quite a bit of Standard and Dorman. Dont see many returns on the delco and standard only slightly more on the Dorman. the Delco fuel pumps don't do any better than the Carter that we sell. Reman delco starters and alternators don't do any better than the QualityBuiltProducts brand we sell, Of course the new in both do well. I do tend to warranty more delco batteries than i do continental.

[special-K]

This is only one source at one particular time. They are continuously searching for stock and replenishing. It's true OEM parts can only last for so long, but we don't know we're at the end of this particular part by one listing and one given point.
Also, Standard makes superior ignition parts. In many cases their parts are better than OEM, especially their Blue Streak line

[UKNOWME]

According to my parts catalog ACDelco has discontinued this part. They are still out there but not being replenished. BTW that's a great price considering MSRP is 280.46. It's below GM dealer cost.

[wilkin250r]

The single-wire valve has already dissapeared completely, even cheap aftermarket replacements can't be found.

[Skunksmash]

Originally Posted by wilkin250r

The single-wire valve has already dissapeared completely, even cheap aftermarket replacements can't be found.

So what do you do then? Do like I said earlier, and rig up some other part off a different vehicle?


So you guys think I'm good on the Standard Motor Products valve then? I think part of my problem is the million different brand names. Every time I need a part, there is a new brand name. All probably made in china.

It seems like every time I nail down a parts company as being decent, they either get bought out, or they just don't exist anymore for one reason or another. For example, whatever happened to Borg/Warner? I never get offered that brand anymore at the parts store.

[hatzie]

The motorized and Solenoid "OEM AC Delco" valves were actually made by Pollack. The 6 port Solenoid valves are discontinued but Pollack is still producing the motorized valves.

[Axle]

Originally Posted by Blessed66

Honestly? I like AC Delco, but their reputation as being "direct OE replacement" felt more like a legacy slogan than anything else.

Indeed. My last few AC Delco parts have been 'made in China'. Very disappointing to find that on the box now.

Alex.

[80Sierra3500]

Originally Posted by hatzie

The motorized and Solenoid "OEM AC Delco" valves were actually made by Pollack. The 6 port Solenoid valves are discontinued but Pollack is still producing the motorized valves.

Functionally what's the difference between solenoid and motorized? Is the motorized valve the one with multiple wires and the solenoid is single wire?

If I find out my single wire valve is bad, where do I go to find something to replace it?
Thanks

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by 80Sierra3500

Functionally what's the difference between solenoid and motorized? Is the motorized valve the one with multiple wires and the solenoid is single wire?

If I find out my single wire valve is bad, where do I go to find something to replace it?
Thanks

Mine was bad and I was not wanting to convert to the motorized valve. I checked every source and there are NO suppliers of a replacement single wire valve. So unless you retro a later motorized valve in your only other choice is the wrecking yard. I pulled a couple of 1 wire valves in my local yard and brought them home tested them and cleaned them up. One to put in the truck and one for a spare.

[80Sierra3500]

I suppose I wouldn't have a problem with retrofitting a 5 wire if I can find a diagram to know what the wires do. I MAY be able to use relays to convert my single wire signal to the five wire.

Another trick might be to use two of these , one for feed and one for return.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by 80Sierra3500

I suppose I wouldn't have a problem with retrofitting a 5 wire if I can find a diagram to know what the wires do. I MAY be able to use relays to convert my single wire signal to the five wire.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=626201

[80Sierra3500]

Ah. So you're telling me all I have to do is reverse polarity on terminals E & D? Evidently the motor has end stop switches built in and the power can be left on with no problems. Slick. Ain't no thang.

I was thinking.... if the original dash switch has 6 terminals it could be wired up as a polarity reversing switch. At the moment I don't have access to my wiring diagram so I don't know. The side of the switch that selects between fuel level sending units obviously is a double throw switch. IF the one that provides the switch signal is also double throw but with only one "throw" used, it could be wired a s polarity reversing switch. The new tank valve can do the gauge switching so the sending wire would have to be redone. I'll check the wiring diagram and my truck when I get home.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Parts stores also carry AC Delco branded parts for Fords....nuff said.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by 80Sierra3500

Ah. So you're telling me all I have to do is reverse polarity on terminals E & D? Evidently the motor has end stop switches built in and the power can be left on with no problems. Slick. Ain't no thang.

I was thinking.... if the original dash switch has 6 terminals it could be wired up as a polarity reversing switch. At the moment I don't have access to my wiring diagram so I don't know. The side of the switch that selects between fuel level sending units obviously is a double throw switch. IF the one that provides the switch signal is also double throw but with only one "throw" used, it could be wired a s polarity reversing switch. The new tank valve can do the gauge switching so the sending wire would have to be redone. I'll check the wiring diagram and my truck when I get home.

The 75-80 switch only has 5 terminals.
If you read the whole thread I posted drawings of the electrical inside the motorized valve.
I also posted a link to a 4 terminal Cole Hersee Polarity Reversing toggle switch.

The wiring diagram I posted is the least disturbing to the original solenoid valve dual tank sub harness. If you go with a complete changeover you'll need to re-route the sender wires to the motorized valve terminals A, B, & C.
Group member GMACHINZ makes new dual tank sub harnesses.

[Skunksmash]

Originally Posted by Titomars

Mine was bad and I was not wanting to convert to the motorized valve. I checked every source and there are NO suppliers of a replacement single wire valve. So unless you retro a later motorized valve in your only other choice is the wrecking yard. I pulled a couple of 1 wire valves in my local yard and brought them home tested them and cleaned them up. One to put in the truck and one for a spare.

Sounds like a bunch of us here need to get good at rebuilding these things. I'm sure we'll do a way better job anyway, and once rebuilt using parts that are worth a damn, we might not need to do it again. Mine died after what...3 years? POS

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

Parts stores also carry AC Delco branded parts for Fords....nuff said.

You want motorcraft for ford anyway. Unless they've gone chinese just like GM. Which they probably have

[80Sierra3500]

Hatzie. I apologize. I didn't see the second page of the thread you mentioned. The electrical drawing of inside the valve explains much.(although the limit switches aren't shown, just the catch diodes for when they open.) As I understand it, the valve only changes position when the polarity of the applied voltage changes. IOW, you can leave the power on to the valve and it won't draw any current after it has shifted to the new position and the limit switch opened. wilkin250r's idea of applying negative 12V to the power terminal is intriguing. It should work fine.

Another interesting tidbit: after looking at the sender switch inside the valve, it looks like it could be adapted to drive relays to power right and left in-tank pumps.