(SERIOUS RUST ISSUES) One Piece Floor Pan.ect

[Clavo106]

OK need some help from the kind experts here on this great site. I have a 1970 CAB with a 1971 chassis 1/2 c10 327 with 350th being cov to lwb to swb . need help on what panels to replace first. I have read the how to by jlaird on here as well. but could use the extra help.. as u can c on the the ruff Ness its some work. so the panels I need are cab corner's, driver drip rail, d&p side kickers panels, and outer rockers and a complete one piece floor pan. the drivers side looks just the same on pass side so that's why oim going one piece on the floor. just need help on what order to do the panels so I don't throw anything off. and was thinking on what vender I should go with on new replacment panels. I was leaning to lmc but hopefully some one can shine in. thanks..> I did also pic up new to me door that are in good shape. but mite by new or rebuild the door hings . , , , , ,

[Clavo106]

[Clavo106]

also replacing the th350 with a 700r4.

[2002yanks]

A one piece floor would be the easiest. I would put that in first. Brace the crap out of the cab to make sure it doesnt move. cut out the old floor and put in the new one(leave as much of the rockers as you can). Tack it in and check door fitment/gaps. keep tacking and checking until its done. Then i would do one side(doesnt matter drivers or pass). Cut the rocker and cab corner off. see if the pillars need fixing. tack everything in and keep checking fitment then do other side the same.

As far as who to order from, stay away from lmc for body panels(theres alot of threads on here about this). I ordered mine from top banana(they sell key parts). Or nsane hotrods(both vendors on here). I have never ordered from nsane, but have seen some of there work(and they use what they sell).

[swamp rat]

More pictures of the roof? inside and out.... that one pic makes me wonder if the cab is worth saving..

[71blksuper4x4]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

More pictures of the roof? inside and out.... that one pic makes me wonder if the cab is worth saving..

I agree, it can be saved with a donor roof, but if you have to find a donor roof, you might as well use that cab and just fix the floor in it. Trevor

[67swb72klb]

If the roof is rusted i would find another cab that's a ton of work without even talking about the price of all the panels

[Lokin4AReason]

with that much work, I would just find another cab ( as mentioned already ). less headaches IMO

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by Lokin4AReason

with that much work, I would just find another cab ( as mentioned already ). less headaches IMO

^^^I agree^^^

Lots of cabs available with no roof issues, only rockers/floors. Much less time, effort, headaches, money.

[snipescastle2]

One thing I would recommend, I this was first recommended to me by Vic Cook, Forum Member and sheet metal wizard! was to make a "Cardboard Template of the door openings, I.E. Pinch weld perimeter, Vic and Scott Duckworth had already done this, and Vic Passed his template onto me.
while I was replacing my floor pan sections, I braced the cab from front to back, and side to side "X" bracing. I had to remove and replace the entire rear cab support bracing because the rot extended past where the patch panels would weld in at. once I was sure everything was in it's place, I placed the card board template inside of the pinch weld perimeter and it was spot on.
Then I started tack welding everything and re-checking often as I went.
Someone once told me to start from the middle and work my way outward, seemed to work for me, cutting small sections of the rotten metal and exposing the bracing underneath helped me to fit everything better, you can never have enough of those butt weld clamps you get at Harbor freight, I think I had 30 of 'em, and still needed some even after that....I wish I had a good assortment of "Cleco's" (spring loaded clamps that install in a small hole you drill) those would have helped in a few circumstances, but otherwise, I did a pretty good job if I may say so.... in hindsight, I should have bought the entire once piece floor with the bracing, would have been a lot simpler.
Good Luck!
Ben Smith

[Clavo106]

Well im liking the support man thanks.im listen and have concerderd a few things brought up because they have cross my mind before. first im not shure if im confused any one my drip rail picture and people thought it was the roof rusting or my roof is rusted lol?. I add more pictures to clarify ? lol to me the roof looks in ruff shape but a workable piece that can still be used no holes. it doues have surface rust on all seams .just what I belive what happen is it got hit on the drivers side and the seamsealer opened and let water in(in Pic). my plan of attack was to fix the roof dent. fix replace lower panels and use internal frame coating spray by eastwood on the inner panels. my truck sags more then the ex's Boobs. its been not the best buy since it took me awail to find one. and pass up two others before I found this one on the back wood in west side WA. got it in dec 14 but it was drivable with a 327 engine and trans. BUT THE big mistake I made was not looking under underneath and I believed so much I was looking at 1970 c10 witch was right when I checked the vin but it was c20 chassis 3/4 soon after I bought it and filled at the gas station 8lugs not good./ so FAR I Bought a 1971 c10 1/2 chassis with a good bed at the yard/ got a steering linkages form Clist/ Tailgate ALSO CList/1968 1/2 Axel from A Diff Yard and doors/ the guy from linkage was also doing the same rust panels describe above I did c it brace up in the garage with the panel already cut he said to jive him a call if I had any questions. he did say the (one piece Floor) would had saved him more time. and in the end what ever u buy your taking apart any ways. he was no expert but im Shure he got it done. And for CABS im trying to work with what I got money saving is always good. but if I could not find a cab that's y I brought up this form.. I did meet a guy a Orilley and he did tell me a month or two ago he had a cab rust free or close to it. I called today but haven't heard back. Also called the yards but they had to talk to the boss because of pricing and he will be in tomorrow WHAT I Remember THERE ARE THREE CABS TWO ARE 68'S NOT SHURE IF MY 1970 FRONT CLIP WILL BOLT RITE UP?MORE ANSER Leaves more Questions its been a jig saw piece of work but replacing the cab will add to that. the only thing would be the title and the front clip I hope. but if I can salvage my cab I will. will c on price tomorrow. I cant afford it till the end of the month because I just bought ece 4/6 drop kit this week. at least I can enter it in two classes 60's and 70/s who really needs only one trophy anyways. ill keep everyone posted need to get this done soon

[Clavo106]

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[Clavo106]

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[2002yanks]

Any year cab will work for you. The front end will bolt on no problem. But there are some differences. One of the main ones is earlier cabs( 67 68 for sure) had a hand ebrake, while later ones have the floor ebrake. Not a big deal, but just be aware of it.

[snipescastle2]

There is a video online somewhere, showing where a guy replaced his roof skin with body panel adhesive, no welding required.....I believe if I would have to do this kind of panel replacement, I would put some heavier insulation in between the roof skin and the inner roof skin just because the factory stuff is paper thin and hardly reduces the radiant heat. good luck!
Ben

[bigbadchev72]

I sent you a private message Clavo106

[Clavo106]

bigbadchev72 i pm u back