What Are My Options With 67 Cab?

[SierraMtns]

I got the cab all vacuumed to be able to assess what will need to be replaced. There was a ton of leaves and acorns. My plan for the truck is build a nice driver that looks really old and rough but with a really strong undercarriage. I kind of like the ugly paint.

The rockers, part of the floor and floor kick corners will need to be replaced. Also the holes in the firewall will be welded up and a couple other small little spots will be addressed.

Should I have the cab media blasted and epoxied before replacing the panels? Or could I get away with replacing the panels and then painting the truck? I got one quote from a well known shop here in town and it's $650 to blast and $450 to epoxy.

http://www.americanstrippingsacramento.com/

[swamp rat]

I'm no expert but based on all the threads i have read i'd do the following:

I'd weld in a number of braces to keep the door openings accurate before the sections of floor and rockers are cut out, the door openings have a way of spreading open and outward.

Probably best to next to cut out the areas that need replaced before blasting otherwise you could miss a rotten or thin spots the blaster would find for you.

[Ft.ValloniaStreaker]

You California kids are funny, in Indiana that's a rust free cab!

[SuperC10Tex]

In Texas that is "Scrap" metal......

[cooperhw]

In Arizona I would not even call that scrap metal. Not too bad actually. All the "Rust Free" cabs are scarce. I myself would brace the door openings like mentioned earlier, the remove and replace the rusty sections. Keep digging until you get into good metal, and put new back in place. Then I would blast it if you are wanting to start with a clean slate. Otherwise, the areas that are solid now are protected with factory paint and are happy. Depends on what type of animal you want to end up with.

[michael bustamante]

my 67 cab is in about the same condition. pretty minor repairs actually compares to what ive seen on here. brace the door openings and cut and patch one panal at a time.
thats a great color. i wish i could find a 67 that color

[firedemon]

here in new York that's as good as a 2016

[Xeen]

I would brace up the cab and remove the outer rockers then have it media blasted and epoxied then once it comes back you can remove any remaining damaged metal and do the metal repair.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by cooperhw

In Arizona I would not even call that scrap metal. Not too bad actually. All the "Rust Free" cabs are scarce. I myself would brace the door openings like mentioned earlier, the remove and replace the rusty sections. Keep digging until you get into good metal, and put new back in place. Then I would blast it if you are wanting to start with a clean slate. Otherwise, the areas that are solid now are protected with factory paint and are happy. Depends on what type of animal you want to end up with.

Yeah cabs are getting harder to find out here too. I picked this one up for $100. I thought it would be a nice one to build. It is cool to find them with the dash uncut.

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

my 67 cab is in about the same condition. pretty minor repairs actually compares to what ive seen on here. brace the door openings and cut and patch one panal at a time.
thats a great color. i wish i could find a 67 that color

Originally Posted by Xeen

I would brace up the cab and remove the outer rockers then have it media blasted and epoxied then once it comes back you can remove any remaining damaged metal and do the metal repair.

Thats a good idea about removing the rockers and then having it blasted. Any recommendations on fixing the floor seam? I was thinking about using a hammer & dolly to get the seam close, clamp and spot weld it back up.

[SierraMtns]

Here are a couple more pictures

[michael bustamante]

do you have all the dash parts and seat belts and stuff?

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

That's a good idea about removing the rockers and then having it blasted. Any recommendations on fixing the floor seam? I was thinking about using a hammer & dolly to get the seam close, clamp and spot weld it back up.

I was looking at that and depending on how bad the floor is on close inspection it might be better and much less work to just replace the floor with a one piece rather than buying all the individual patches and piecing it together, that's a determination you will have to make before you have it media blasted.

Another thing I would ask the media blaster if he ignores areas that are obviously beyond saving and just blast the areas that can be saved if that will reduce the cost to blast it.

You will need to dig out all the of the seam sealer in the drip rail before you take it in to get blasted that way you are starting out with a nice clean surface to apply the new seam sealer.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I was looking at that and depending on how bad the floor is on close inspection it might be better and much less work to just replace the floor with a one piece rather than buying all the individual patches and piecing it together, that's a determination you will have to make before you have it media blasted.

Another thing I would ask the media blaster if he ignores areas that are obviously beyond saving and just blast the areas that can be saved if that will reduce the cost to blast it.

You will need to dig out all the of the seam sealer in the drip rail before you take it in to get blasted that way you are starting out with a nice clean surface to apply the new seam sealer.

Yeah the floor feels solid with small amount rust on the outer edge. With fixing the seam and outer edges it might be easier to replace the hole floor.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

do you have all the dash parts and seat belts and stuff?

Yeah I have a complete cab that I will pull all the other parts from. The reason for building this cab is because my current cab was chopped and I don't like that look.

[SierraMtns]

First on the list is to remove this brace and see if I can refit it. It might help explain why the floor seam has a gap.

[Xeen]

Yeah it looks like those structural pieces have been removed before and improperly reinstalled.

[jaros44sr]

Looks fixable to me... kick panel, outer floorboard section patch panels. I would media blast it first to see exactly what I was dealing with, probably soda blast so as not to distort the metal, but would remove paint and rust to my knowledge. The seam that has opened up around the trans tunnel could be clamped back in place with vise grips and spot welded

Got a better pic. Of the drivers side, not sure what's going on there
More light would help
How are your welding skills?
The brace on the firewall/ floorboards are two pieces they will have to be spot welded back together

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Looks fixable to me... kick panel, outer floorboard section patch panels. I would media blast it first to see exactly what I was dealing with, probably soda blast so as not to distort the metal, but would remove paint and rust to my knowledge. The seam that has opened up around the trans tunnel could be clamped back in place with vise grips and spot welded

Got a better pic. Of the drivers side, not sure what's going on there
More light would help
How are your welding skills?
The brace on the firewall/ floorboards are two pieces they will have to be spot welded back together

Thanks Jim for the help. I was thinking the same thing about bring the seam back together and shop welding it back. I would call myself a beginner welder however the guy helping me is good at welding. I have a Lincoln Pro 140 with 0.025 ga wirer. I could switch to 0.030 if need be. When I have it blasted should I have it epoxied at the same time?


Do they make rocker and outer floor section together? I thought saw somewhere they did.

Here a couple more pictures. I can get more this afternoon if there is another angle you want to see.

Thanks again.

[mjgord51]

So. Cal you can find some good ones and then also can find some with normal rot spots. Just depends on PO'ers replacing the door weather stripping when needed (that's too easy) Found mine with normal rot spots at lower floor & side panels (L&R sides) at were High Beam foot sw. is. I have seen people selling a refurbished cab going north of **$9000+,** I guess the 72 AC cab I bought that is in Original paint condition ( lt blu) with out any rot in cab, let me say that again **NO ROT** any were at all in cab, Just small area on one door lower underside fixable,
So I guess I could put a price tag of Better than $10,000+ for my cab that has most all items still installed like AC stuff inside & outside, complete dash cluster, heater control, all is still wired,(- strg column), No title but might can be gotten. It does have a Bill of Sale. Just thought I would put this out there. You can still find good cabs if you look in the right places. mjgord51

[jaros44sr]

Hey Nick, drivers side looks doable, except the lower 'A' post needs some attention, but luckily you won't need the whole patch panel to fix fender mounting hole

how's the cab corners look? Is there any more rust other than what is pictured?

The only patch panels I've seen for the rockers are two pieces, floorboard extension, and rockers. Who do you plan on buying your parts from?

Check with the guys down in the body and paint section for their advice on primer, I don't pretend to be a painter

Keep the pics coming as you make progress, love the color, and tape up your vin tag before blasting

You may consider turning this into a build and project thread so people can learn. can't recommend wire size, but someone on the boards will know. Only do one side at a time, and brace it as said above

Has someone been in there working on the floor, looks like the floor was badly patched before
All the above posts are sage advice

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Looks fixable to me... kick panel, outer floorboard section patch panels. I would media blast it first to see exactly what I was dealing with, probably soda blast so as not to distort the metal, but would remove paint and rust to my knowledge. The seam that has opened up around the trans tunnel could be clamped back in place with vise grips and spot welded

Got a better pic. Of the drivers side, not sure what's going on there
More light would help
How are your welding skills?
The brace on the firewall/ floorboards are two pieces they will have to be spot welded back together

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Hey Nick, drivers side looks doable, except the lower 'A' post needs some attention, but luckily you won't need the whole patch panel to fix fender mounting hole

how's the cab corners look? Is there any more rust other than what is pictured?

The only patch panels I've seen for the rockers are two pieces, floorboard extension, and rockers. Who do you plan on buying your parts from?

Check with the guys down in the body and paint section for their advice on primer, I don't pretend to be a painter

Keep the pics coming as you make progress, love the color, and tape up your vin tag before blasting

You may consider turning this into a build and project thread so people can learn. can't recommend wire size, but someone on the boards will know. Only do one side at a time, and brace it as said above

Has someone been in there working on the floor, looks like the floor was badly patched before
All the above posts are sage advice

I am not sure if anyone has been in there before. I picked up the cab cheap because the guy wanted it gone.

Here are the rockers/out floor pieces I was talking about.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=258031

[SierraMtns]

Small spot of rust on the bottom of the window on the driver side.

[stacerbob]

What shape is your chopped top cab in? Maybe easier to just replace the roof with this one?

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by stacerbob

What shape is your chopped top cab in? Maybe easier to just replace the roof with this one?

I have thought about it. However I thought it would be hard to sell the left over parts, i.e, chopped doors, windshield, rear window. Also the A-pillar would need to be straightened because they lay them back for the chop.

The flip side is that the current chopped cab has a lot of work that has already been done. The floor was replaced, blasted and painted. The color would be changed if we kept it.

Where would someone cut to replace the top?

Pictures of the current cab.

[Xeen]

It looks like who ever did the chop did a good job on it and the paint looks nice.
That is a really nice truck it's a shame to tear this truck apart and rebuild it, in fact this is a good candidate for PB treatment with Air ride and 20's.
Why did you pay a premium for a completed truck that is such a extreme custom if you were just going to rip it apart and put it back to stock?