Installing Electronic Gauges in a 64 C-10

[elane352]

Greetings!

I wanted to confirm whether or not my thought process is correct before I start replacing my mechanical gauges with some electric auto meter gauges.

I realize that the mechanical gauges in my truck now have the pink wires on the non-sender side that connect into a splice.

Now given that I have to use a 12 volt terminal on the ignition switch, or other switched 12 source for the electrical gauges, am I correct in thinking that for the existing mechanical-based pink wires I can just cap them off? I am assuming I will not be using them. That makes sense to me; but just wanted to check.

Let me know please.

Eddie

[MikeN]

I'm pretty sure those pink wires are just for the dash lighting. If I'm right, you could use those wires to light your aftermarket gauges.

[Captainfab]

The gray wires are for the lighting of the dash panel.

Originally Posted by MikeN

I'm pretty sure those pink wires are just for the dash lighting. If I'm right, you could use those wires to light your aftermarket gauges.

[MikeN]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The gray wires are for the lighting of the dash panel.

You are correct, of course. Haven't had the dash apart in my truck in several years, and obviously remembered wrong

The factory oil pressure and temp gauges are mechanical and would only have the gray dash lighting lighting wire. I guess the OP is speaking about the fuel and batt gauges having pink wires?

[Captainfab]

On a truck with the gauges instrument cluster, the oil pressure is the only mechanical gauge. The temp, battery and fuel gauges are electric.

Originally Posted by MikeN

You are correct, of course. Haven't had the dash apart in my truck in several years, and obviously remembered wrong

The factory oil pressure and temp gauges are mechanical and would only have the gray dash lighting lighting wire. I guess the OP is speaking about the fuel and batt gauges having pink wires?

elane352, you should be able to terminate those wires with either a crimp connector or taped very well.

[elane352]

Thanks all for the prior responses. I have another question.

In order to pull out the instrument cluster from the back, the truck shop manual indicated that there were 5 screws to remove. I removed three from the back bottom of the cluster and two from the top. So I figured I would be able to pull the cluster out from the back at that point. All of the bulbs have been removed.

I cannot pull the cluster out. Although it is clear and free from the bottom, there appears to be something at the back top that is preventing the cluster from coming out.

I can feel with my finger what I think is some type of fastening clip at the top of the cluster near the center. It slides a tad bit; but not much. That is the only thing I can feel. I cannot see it; or anything else.

I think I need to get the clip out. Does that make sense? And if I am right, is there a trick to doing so since I cannot see it.

Eddie

[Captainfab]

I assume you are trying to remove the gauge cluster towards the steering wheel? Often times the cluster will hang up on the J-clips that the screws thread into. Have you disconnected the speedo cable and the oil pressure line (if you have a mechanical gauge)? Have you also removed all the switches on the lower edge of the cluster bezel?

All in all the cluster will not just 'fall' out once all the screws are removed and everything disconnected. It will need some persuading.

[elane352]

I assume you are trying to remove the gauge cluster towards the steering wheel?
[EAL] - Nope; I was trying to remove the cluster from the back only because that was what the truck manual indicated. Is this the best approach?

Often times the cluster will hang up on the J-clips that the screws thread into.
[EAL] - I believe that I saw those on the side. I saw the screw ends protruding out.

Have you disconnected the speedo cable and the oil pressure line (if you have a mechanical gauge)?
[EAL] - the speedometer cable was the first thing I removed. The prior owner installed an electric oil pressure gauge towards the glove compartment . I disconnected that.

Have you also removed all the switches on the lower edge of the cluster bezel?
[EAL] - This I did not do since I was thinking I could remove the cluster mechanism from the back like the truck manual indicated. Also, the gauge cluster panel I purchased from Brothers does not incorporate the switches. It seemed to me that since the switches are independent of the cluster panel I planned to install, I would not have to bother with them. Let me know if that logic is not right.

All in all the cluster will not just 'fall' out once all the screws are removed and everything disconnected. It will need some persuading.
[EAL] - 10-4 on that. This process has been a bit of a bear so far in terms of the cluster. I installed the Dakota Digital/analog gauges in my 57 chevy. That was easier to deal with.

I am thankful and appreciative of your responses.

Eddie

[siggyfreud]

Don't think it can be removed from the back. It's a taper fit. Once loose I think it has to come toward you.
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[Captainfab]

It sounds to me like you are making this far more difficult than it needs to be. Do not disassemble the instrument cluster from behind and under the dash. That sounds like a complete nightmare. The whole assembly comes out of the dash towards the steering wheel once you remove the screws around the bezel and remove the switches. As I said it will need a little persuasion to get past the screw clips.

I do not know exactly what you bought from Brothers, but it sounds to me like just the gauge panel. You will still need to reuse the factory bezel.

[elane352]

It sounds to me like you are making this far more difficult than it needs to be. Do not disassemble the instrument cluster from behind and under the dash. That sounds like a complete nightmare. The whole assembly comes out of the dash towards the steering wheel once you remove the screws around the bezel and remove the switches. As I said it will need a little persuasion to get past the screw clips.

[EAL] - understood and I hear you. I had removed the screws around the bezel. I will remove the switches next. And yes; working from the back is worse than a bad nightmare.

I do not know exactly what you bought from Brothers, but it sounds to me like just the gauge panel. You will still need to reuse the factory bezel.

[EAL] - you are correct. The bezel will have to be reused since I am dealing with just a gauge panel. I will let you know how I make out.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by elane352

It sounds to me like you are making this far more difficult than it needs to be. Do not disassemble the instrument cluster from behind and under the dash. That sounds like a complete nightmare. The whole assembly comes out of the dash towards the steering wheel once you remove the screws around the bezel and remove the switches. As I said it will need a little persuasion to get past the screw clips.

[EAL] - understood and I hear you. I had removed the screws around the bezel. I will remove the switches next. And yes; working from the back is worse than a bad nightmare.

I do not know exactly what you bought from Brothers, but it sounds to me like just the gauge panel. You will still need to reuse the factory bezel.

[EAL] - you are correct. The bezel will have to be reused since I am dealing with just a gauge panel. I will let you know how I make out.

Sometimes dropping the steering column a bit will give needed vertical clearance--IF bottom of cluster is riding on top of column.
Sam

[elane352]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

Sometimes dropping the steering column a bit will give needed vertical clearance--IF bottom of cluster is riding on top of column.
Sam

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[elane352]

Originally Posted by elane352

Posted via Mobile Device

Okay, duly noted and thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[elane352]

This forum is a wealth of knowledge.

Thanks for all the input and advice.

I got all of the knobs removed; got the cluster out; dissembled it; and have mounted the new gauge panel to the cluster. So now it is just a matter of wiring up and re-installing things.

Much appreciated. Now I do not feel frustrated.

E. Lane

[elane352]

I have a couple of questions. This concerns the oil pressure gauge.

On the one that the prior owner installed (called a "SW), there is a cable/line attached. It connects to a port on the block right by the distributor. Am I right in thinking that connecting point is the temperature sending unit the cable/line is connecting to? I think it is. The engine in my truck is a 1972 350.

On the Auto Meter gauge that is in the panel I purchased, there is no port to connect the cable/line to.

Am I right in thinking that:

1.) I need to dispense with the cable/line, and

2.) replace it by connecting an appropriate gauged wire to the AutoMeter gauge and connect the other end of the wire to the engine port where the cable/line connected?

This makes sense to me. But I wanted to check with you all first.

E. Lane

[elane352]

Sorry; when I mentioned "temperature sending unit," I meant to say "oil sending unit."

I am okay with the temperature sending unit.

[elane352]

This link shows the distributor. See the brown tube coming down. It is the tube/line that is connected to the after market oil pressure gauge the prior owner installed. Am I right in assuming that the port the line is connected to is the oil sending unit?

[elane352]

Darn; my prior attempt to post the link did not work. Try this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/133813498@N04/albums

[Captainfab]

What you currently have is an mechanical oil pressure gauge. That is a tube that directs oil from your engine to the oil pressure gauge. I have no idea what gauges you now have but if there is no nylon or copper line for the oil pressure gauge, then it is an electric gauge. You will need the correct sending unit for the gauge you have.

[elane352]

Thank you Captain.

I definitely have an AutoMeter electric gauge along with the associated sender. I will disconnect the tube, remove the sender it is connected to on the block, put in the electric sender, and run a new wire.

E. Lane