12 Valve fuel shut off

[brimc]

So I'm working out the details of replacing the electric fuel shut off solenoid on my p pump 12 valve that I'm doing in my 86 Silverado. I want to be rid of electrics, electronics, wiring and automotive computer nonsense as much as possible on this build. So I want to install a simple push/pull cable to manually open and close the shutoff valve. I have searched and seen a few different types and styles and think I have a plan other than I have two questions that I am not sure about and I thought maybe some of you would share your thoughts.
First, when the engine is off, not running, does it matter what position the shutoff valve/lever is in? Second, does the cable have to be "locked" or maybe spring loaded to hold either the on or off positions?

[burnin oil]

A good quality, not cheap, choke cable will work just fine. That is how tractors worked for years. Depending on the way the cable is oriented will depend which way the handle is when the fuel is shut off. You want it in when driving or it will drive you nuts. If you use a cheap cable from the auto parts store you will be popping the hood because the injection pumps arm has just enough resistence to kink the cheap cable. Been there and done that on my 95 dodge when the solenoid died. As for the arm on the pump, yes it does matter which way it swings. One way is on and the other is off. I want to say lever forward on a PPump is full fuel.

[Dieselwrencher]

On a P-pump you have to pull the lever up for on and push it down for off. If you remove the bracket from the lever, fuel off is back towards the rear of the engine. Fuel on is forward toward the front of the engine. Fuel shut off cables drive me nuts. They usually always rattle over time. But, they are simple and work.

That is off in the pic for reference.

[brimc]

Thanks for the replys. I understand the function of the lever and how it closes off the fuel by pulling back the rack etc. If the rack is back in the idle/run position while the engine is not running is there any negative affects? Thinking about spring loaded to hold the on position. When you pull out the cable handle to shut down the engine the spring would pull and hold the run position 100%. Is this dangerous?

[6BT 56]

There is a guy on the napco forum that spent years if his life all bent up cuz his suburban started up and dragged him down the road when he accidently knocked the starter sol while doing some work under the truck . Cuz your truck is manual I'd say its risky . Granted he left his ign on accidentally but the manual shut off could end up,in a similar situation .

Just my two cents .

[burnin oil]

Just put a regular cable in it and leave it pulled out until you go to start the motor. That's all I do in my Mack. Pull the kill switch for the fuel and lock both transmissions in 1st. Truck stays put, even with pre spring brake air chambers on the truck. There is no reason to make things more difficult than it needs to be. If you want to think about failures it is possible for the contacts to weld themselves on a relay and keep the truck from shutting down. Just saying.

[brimc]

Agreed with all the comments. Trying to decide on the cable I'm going to buy. Going to pass on a regular cable. Thinking of a full heavy duty push/pull locking. There are bit pricey but still much cheaper than a new solenoid setup. Thx guys.

[brimc]

Got this part of my build completed so I thought I would update this. Hopefully this will help out others looking to not use the electrics to run the fuel shutoff.
I got a $30 10 foot PTO cable from Princess Auto. It is pretty heavy duty. Meant for heavy use. I think it should hold up good.
Picked a spot in the dash just below the headlight switch. Easy to reach from the driver seat or from standing on the ground with the door open. Handy if you ever need to shut it down without needing to jump up in the cab.
"Run" position.



Ran a hole-saw through the firewall just below the fuse box assey. Found a rubber grommet in the spare parts drawer. Also added some sealer to seal it up good. Should stay dry.




Removed all the old brackets and cut up a small bracket and bolt holder for the new cable. It locates off one of the old bracket bolts bottom rear side of the AFC housing. Just had to clearance the throttle lever slightly to clear.
Shutdown arm in the "run" position.






Arm in the "shutdown" position.




"Off" position.



There is very little effort needed to move the lever and the hold in both positions is very good. I have cycled it 10 or 12 times and it seems to work very good. Time will tell but I think it will work out good for me.

I have learned alot from reading these great forums on this great website and hopefully this will help out others on there future engine swaps.

[Luther Grimace]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

There is a guy on the napco forum that spent years if his life all bent up cuz his suburban started up and dragged him down the road when he accidently knocked the starter sol while doing some work under the truck . Cuz your truck is manual I'd say its risky . Granted he left his ign on accidentally but the manual shut off could end up,in a similar situation .

Just my two cents .

Never thought about this before. Makes me want to reinstall the solenoid in my truck. I currently operate the fuel shut off of the throttle cable in the dash board. I always leave it pulled out (OFF for a VE pump) when I'm not driving it but there is a risk involved. My Cummins will crank in what seems like a millisecond. I will start putting both sticks in neutral when I work on it.

[brimc]

There is some risk, but for me the benefits outweigh them.
I have the starter engage circuit tied in with the park break and the clutch. ( both pedals down to crank )
When I "park" our bikes, quads, tractors usually leave them in neutral. Will likely do the same with the truck and just use the parking break.