Should this just slide out - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jobrla · 08-19-2015, 07:14 PM

Pulling the hatch handle off. Have all the screws, c-clip and hardware removed. Soaked it down with BP Blast. Should the handle and shaft slide out of the rod holder and spring?

**1rippen6** · 08-19-2015, 10:33 PM

yep but I had 2 that I just had to give up and cut the shaft with a cutoff wheel on a dremel. I even made a puller one time and it ended up messing the plate up that held the rods.

asolde · 08-20-2015, 08:10 AM

I thought the whole unit would come out of the hatch. Isn't there a couple of roll pins you can punch out to disassemble the handle?

**1rippen6** · 08-20-2015, 08:13 AM

See link below but you still need to remove the rod mechanism before it will come apart.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=509656

smbrouss70 · 08-20-2015, 11:07 AM

I just fought 2 of these that were acting the same way. In the end what worked was heat. The only problem is that 40 year old fiberglass doesn't like open flames. Find something to protect the fiberglass and use a torch with a small controlled flame, and you will eventually work it out of there.

**1rippen6** · 08-20-2015, 12:50 PM

Just be careful not to damage the spring with the torch

Senorx · 04-04-2016, 12:54 PM

I'm currently fighting this right now. Any new tips or tricks? I have one soaking in some WD-40 right now.

Blazer690 · 04-04-2016, 08:07 PM

I have 2 of these to do also, hope I have better luck. Might try a arc welder. Ground the handle and stick the rod on the shaft and watch it glow. After it cools the rust might be loosened or the shaft might shrink??

**DeadheadNM** · 04-04-2016, 08:26 PM

Sub'd...

pound41 · 04-04-2016, 10:15 PM

I have gotten a few free with a C clamp put one end on the shaft and the other on the tab/ear that has the hole for the lock rod. You are essentially pressing it out

Livrat · 04-04-2016, 10:18 PM

I have found (After destroying several) that the only way to get those rusted ones apart is heat and penetrating oil (PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, Acetone/ATF etc),
I take a soup can and cut it down to fit in the recess, unwind the spring off the unit (heat will destroy it too), put the soup can in and behind the handle (To protect the fiberglass). Liberally soak the shaft with penetrating oil, use a small torch to heat it up. apply more penetrating oil.. Walk away and let it cool down. Apply more oil.. heat again, add more oil then clamp a small puller and add some tension, heat again.. more oil, more tension... ADD lots of patience!!.. keep repeating those steps and eventually they do come off..

Senorx · 04-05-2016, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Livrat

I have found (After destroying several) that the only way to get those rusted ones apart is heat and penetrating oil (PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, Acetone/ATF etc),
I take a soup can and cut it down to fit in the recess, unwind the spring off the unit (heat will destroy it too), put the soup can in and behind the handle (To protect the fiberglass). Liberally soak the shaft with penetrating oil, use a small torch to heat it up. apply more penetrating oil.. Walk away and let it cool down. Apply more oil.. heat again, add more oil then clamp a small puller and add some tension, heat again.. more oil, more tension... ADD lots of patience!!.. keep repeating those steps and eventually they do come off..

How do you "unwind" the spring? I have one mechanism with a broken spring. I haven't been able to find a replacement spring for that one yet.

**1rippen6** · 04-05-2016, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Senorx

How do you "unwind" the spring? I have one mechanism with a broken spring. I haven't been able to find a replacement spring for that one yet.

That's what I was wondering can't be easy.

robs71k5 · 04-07-2016, 02:54 AM

Lol I've been researching making my own spring.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1rippen6

That's what I was wondering can't be easy.

Senorx · 04-07-2016, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robs71k5

Lol I've been researching making my own spring.

Please let me know. I've been looking at spring makers online too. I may have found a custom spring maker that can make these types of "torsion" springs. Does it just slide out when you disassemble the hatch assembly? They need an actual spring to copy.

pound41 · 04-07-2016, 08:21 AM

I have never looked for the springs but one place you might search is garage door lock places. That's what the lock design stuff comes from or camper shell tops. I say garage door because I installed them in summers while in college. The locking mech had a spring on them that was similar to kick the lock back when you turned the key. Just a thought

08-19-2015, 07:14 PM	#1
jobrla Registered User Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Las Cruces, NM Posts: 190	Should this just slide out Pulling the hatch handle off. Have all the screws, c-clip and hardware removed. Soaked it down with BP Blast. Should the handle and shaft slide out of the rod holder and spring? Attached Images

08-19-2015, 10:33 PM	#2
1rippen6 Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Greencastle PA Posts: 6,807	Re: Should this just slide out yep but I had 2 that I just had to give up and cut the shaft with a cutoff wheel on a dremel. I even made a puller one time and it ended up messing the plate up that held the rods.

08-20-2015, 08:10 AM	#3
asolde Registered User Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Henderson Nevada Posts: 804	Re: Should this just slide out I thought the whole unit would come out of the hatch. Isn't there a couple of roll pins you can punch out to disassemble the handle? __________________ 1972 cheverolet K5 CST Blazer 350/auto/AC/PS/PB/Aux Batt From Medford, Oregon

08-20-2015, 08:13 AM	#4
1rippen6 Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Greencastle PA Posts: 6,807	Re: Should this just slide out See link below but you still need to remove the rod mechanism before it will come apart. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=509656

08-20-2015, 11:07 AM	#5
smbrouss70 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Rayne, LA Posts: 2,781	Re: Should this just slide out I just fought 2 of these that were acting the same way. In the end what worked was heat. The only problem is that 40 year old fiberglass doesn't like open flames. Find something to protect the fiberglass and use a torch with a small controlled flame, and you will eventually work it out of there. __________________ Steven "If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers R.I.P. Oscar R.I.P. Ratchet 1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner 1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck" 1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer" 2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar" 2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB" 2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy" Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Shop Build

08-20-2015, 12:50 PM	#6
1rippen6 Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Greencastle PA Posts: 6,807	Re: Should this just slide out Just be careful not to damage the spring with the torch

04-04-2016, 12:54 PM	#7
Senorx Registered User Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: South Texas Posts: 567	Re: Should this just slide out I'm currently fighting this right now. Any new tips or tricks? I have one soaking in some WD-40 right now.

04-04-2016, 08:07 PM	#8
Blazer690 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Monrovia CA Posts: 453	Re: Should this just slide out I have 2 of these to do also, hope I have better luck. Might try a arc welder. Ground the handle and stick the rod on the shaft and watch it glow. After it cools the rust might be loosened or the shaft might shrink??

04-04-2016, 08:26 PM	#9
DeadheadNM Carpe manana Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Eau Claire, WI Posts: 12,449	Re: Should this just slide out Sub'd... __________________ 1972 K5 CST Highlander Blazer: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=708547 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528308 Members met: ORANGBLAZ, 2003 silverado, MikeCofield, BB72CHEVKT, Duncan&Son, Sameyrasmea72, THENEWMEXICAN, HotRod C/10, brianthelion02, Sport/Truck, ryanroo, michael bustamante, Dirt's72, Already Gone, WestButteTruck, 57taskforce, Moreyel, painterljp, AASmedic, SoCoC10, Lumaestas, carbuff382, Chevyland

04-04-2016, 10:15 PM	#10
pound41 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 1,268	Re: Should this just slide out I have gotten a few free with a C clamp put one end on the shaft and the other on the tab/ear that has the hole for the lock rod. You are essentially pressing it out

04-04-2016, 10:18 PM	#11
Livrat Member #1049 Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Troy Montana Posts: 3,940	Re: Should this just slide out I have found (After destroying several) that the only way to get those rusted ones apart is heat and penetrating oil (PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, Acetone/ATF etc), I take a soup can and cut it down to fit in the recess, unwind the spring off the unit (heat will destroy it too), put the soup can in and behind the handle (To protect the fiberglass). Liberally soak the shaft with penetrating oil, use a small torch to heat it up. apply more penetrating oil.. Walk away and let it cool down. Apply more oil.. heat again, add more oil then clamp a small puller and add some tension, heat again.. more oil, more tension... ADD lots of patience!!.. keep repeating those steps and eventually they do come off..

04-07-2016, 08:21 AM	#16
pound41 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 1,268	Re: Should this just slide out I have never looked for the springs but one place you might search is garage door lock places. That's what the lock design stuff comes from or camper shell tops. I say garage door because I installed them in summers while in college. The locking mech had a spring on them that was similar to kick the lock back when you turned the key. Just a thought



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