My first Chevy truck, need some guidance

[Nygaard]

Hello! First post and first time Chevy-owner here

Just bought my first truck - a 1976 C10 step-side. This is a completely new world to me (only wrenched on European cars until now), so I’m hoping for some tips and tricks from the more hardened truck owners. I have already been lurking around the boards for a couple of months and found some good info, but I still have a bunch of stuff to figure out.

First off, the truck and what I will be using it for
It’s a 1976 C10 350 Cheyenne. 96000 miles on the clock and it looks like it has been taken decent care of. It runs and stops as it should, with the exception of a leaky and noisy transmission (which I’ll address later). It's imported from CA, so there’s also a smog pump installed (that will have to go!).
My plan is to use it as my daily driver year round, which means in the 5-90 ºF temp range. 98% of the time on asphalt roads. Only light loads (no more than a couple of dirt bikes + gear).

What I want to accomplish with this project
A solid and reliable build that starts and runs every day without any fuss.
Good mileage (or at least not worse than it has to be ).
Decent comfort and handling.
~300 hp (more = better, but driveability and reliability comes first).
Broad power/torque band.

What I need to decide on at this point of the project
- Transmission: As mentioned, it needs attention.. It’s a regular three speed automatic, so I’m considering tossing it and replacing it with a new/overhauled transmission with overdrive. Which one should I go for, and what (if any) complications are to be expected?
- Engine: A solid engine build - without going overboard. Top end kit (Edelbrock, Summit Racing, etc.), carb, headers, ignition. I really need some help with this one! Should I go for one of the matched kits or are there better options out there? I’ve seen a lot of positive comments on the Vortec heads, but I’m nowhere familiar enough with the 350 to match up a complete and balanced build, part for part.
- Suspension/wheels: What size wheels and tires should I go for, with road use in mind? I want to keep it relatively original looking, but bumping them up to 16” wouldn’t hurt. I’m considering a mild lowering (with new dampers) as well, to improve handling and ride comfort. Suggestions?

And finally, a photo from the day she rolled out of the shipping container - including original Californian dust!

[1976gmc20]

Keep I as original as possible

15" wheels are fine on the road.

You can pull all that smog stuff and put 1/4" (or 1/8" - can't remember which?) standard pipe thread plugs in the exhaust manifolds.

I never liked those 3 speed autos back in the day, but for a lightweight pickup like yours on the road, just rebuild it and it should be fine.

That engine may still have a lot of life left in it if it was maintained at all.

[flashed]

Great looking truck ,looking forward to more.

[UKNOWME]

Just out of curiosity, what did it cost to ship it?

[rich weyand]

It probably has 50 to 100 thousand miles left on the engine. You could put a 12-235-2 cam (plus lifters and springs) in it if you wanted to liven it up. 290 hp and 415 lbft of torque once you add some other stuff.

Get a dual-plane manifold, and rebuild the Quadrajet. There's a cheap book on how to do that. Get a manifold compatible to either spread-bore carbs for the Quadrajet. I used the Edelbrock 2601, which can go either spread-bore or square-bore, but you MUST use the thermac air cleaner with that air-gap manifold or cold weather performance and gas mileage will suck.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...d-headers.html

Put Hooker 2452 headers on it.

Surprised the TH350 is giving you trouble after only 100,000 miles. Should be good for twice to three times that. Try flushing it out, replacing the filter, and putting synthetic ATF in it and see what happens.

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Surprised the TH350 is giving you trouble after only 100,000 miles. Should be good for twice to three times that.

I never had much luck with them in a 4wd - they were pretty trashed by about 75-80K, but I suppose they might do okay in a highway pickup.

[rich weyand]

Coming up on 160,000 in a K10. No problems. Then again, it MAY have been changed before I got the truck, but unlikely.

[77 Big 10]

I'm running 18"x8.5" Replica IROC-Z28 rims

[tommy217xxx]

Originally Posted by 77 Big 10

I'm running 18"x8.5" Replica IROC-Z28 rims

Those wheels look really nice on your truck. What brand are they?

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Coming up on 160,000 in a K10. No problems. Then again, it MAY have been changed before I got the truck, but unlikely.

I guess it depends on how you use them.

I was always in the mountains, and then I hauled a big load to Alaska. Pulled a semi a couple times, too

Mostly the gas mileage was horrible. I traded a 73 for an 80 just to get a four speed manual (well, it was going on needing a transmission anyway).

The manual had much more power and better gas mileage (same basic 350 engine). But for normal use the slushbox is probably fine, and much better if you have your girlfriend along on the bench seat

[77 Big 10]

Originally Posted by tommy217xxx

Those wheels look really nice on your truck. What brand are they?

For the life of me I can't remember (Old Brains), but here is a link that will give you a start.

http://customwheelsmarket.com/iroczwheels.html

[motornut]

truck looks good.I just rolled over 94,000 on the weekend in my 79C,looks original tranny

[Nygaard]

Sorry about the late reply! I suddenly had A LOT of work-related stuff to take care of.

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

Keep I as original as possible

15" wheels are fine on the road.

You can pull all that smog stuff and put 1/4" (or 1/8" - can't remember which?) standard pipe thread plugs in the exhaust manifolds.

I never liked those 3 speed autos back in the day, but for a lightweight pickup like yours on the road, just rebuild it and it should be fine.

That engine may still have a lot of life left in it if it was maintained at all.

That's the plan
I will make some minor changes to it, so that it will fit my needs and follow the "70's badass style". But there will be no cutting, welding, drilling, etc.!
And any part removed from the car will be stored, so that I can always bring it back to original.

This pretty much sums up the style I'm going for:


I have seen several post advising against touching the smog stuff, unless the plan is to toss it all and putting on a good Holley (or equivalent) instead.
With the potential problems in mind, the fact that that it's a 39 year old carb, and that I want to pull a little more power/mileage out of the engine - wouldn't it make more sense to just replace it ASAP?

As for the transmission; what didn't you like about it (the 3 speed)?
The main reason I want to swap it is to get one with overdrive, so that it will drop down in rpm. at cruising speed.
I drove a C1500 last week, and it really makes a difference regarding noise level - and should improve mileage as well?

Originally Posted by flashed

Great looking truck ,looking forward to more.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by UKNOWME

Just out of curiosity, what did it cost to ship it?

Getting a vehicle of that size/weight over the Atlantic is around $2500.
Then there's some taxes, registration fees, and so on. But all of that depends on the country it is imported to.

Originally Posted by rich weyand

It probably has 50 to 100 thousand miles left on the engine. You could put a 12-235-2 cam (plus lifters and springs) in it if you wanted to liven it up. 290 hp and 415 lbft of torque once you add some other stuff.

Get a dual-plane manifold, and rebuild the Quadrajet. There's a cheap book on how to do that. Get a manifold compatible to either spread-bore carbs for the Quadrajet. I used the Edelbrock 2601, which can go either spread-bore or square-bore, but you MUST use the thermac air cleaner with that air-gap manifold or cold weather performance and gas mileage will suck.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...d-headers.html

Put Hooker 2452 headers on it.

Surprised the TH350 is giving you trouble after only 100,000 miles. Should be good for twice to three times that. Try flushing it out, replacing the filter, and putting synthetic ATF in it and see what happens.

Thanks, I'll read that thread tonight.

Regarding the transmission, I don't know what the issue is yet. It seems to run fine when cold, but starts ticking (badly) once it heats up.
It is pretty gunked up and clean oil is dripping from several places (= more then one leakage), so I think the best approach is to open it up and see what's going on.

[1976gmc20]

I have seen several post advising against touching the smog stuff, unless the plan is to toss it all and putting on a good Holley (or equivalent) instead.
With the potential problems in mind, the fact that that it's a 39 year old carb, and that I want to pull a little more power/mileage out of the engine - wouldn't it make more sense to just replace it ASAP?

As for the transmission; what didn't you like about it (the 3 speed)?
The main reason I want to swap it is to get one with overdrive, so that it will drop down in rpm. at cruising speed.
I drove a C1500 last week, and it really makes a difference regarding noise level - and should improve mileage as well?

My 76 already had the smog pump removed (it was also a California truck), but they left the damn exhaust injection lines sticking out all over. I yanked them off and plugged the holes in the manifolds with standard plumbing plugs.

It had a Holley carb on it when I got it and I have no idea if that was original. It ran pretty good on the highway but was terrible in the woods: at low speeds it would flood and barf fuel all over the top of the engine. I got a Q-jet from a junkyard and paid a neighbor to rebuild it and it's been on there ever since 1996 with no problems other than the automatic choke which I had to jerk off because it would stick closed.

As I said before, the 3 speed automatics that I had (1971,1973) were terrible on gas mileage compared to a 4 speed manual, and they didn't hold up under the use/abuse that I put them through. We have a four speed auto in the 4wd Suburban (1991) and it seems to do a lot better although people say they are not as durable as the old TH350. I still prefer the old SM465 four speed manual; it's a truck transmission meant to do truck things.

So yeah - you would probably like the 4sp OD automatic a lot better. It's just a question of how much it would cost to convert it versus just getting the old TH350 rebuilt, and keeping it "original". I can't remember: does the 76 have the transmission indicator up on the column or built into the dash ??? It's not going to be a simple bolt in conversion although much simpler in a 2wd than a 4wd.

[rich weyand]

For mileage and performance in street driving, keep the Quadrajet carb.

If you replace the Quadrajet, you must get one tuned for your vehicle. They are NOT all the same. There are lots of little air bleeds and such where the hole size varies depending on the intended application.

Easier is to rebuild the Quadrajet you have. Several books detail this process, and it's not hard. Mostly disassemble, clean, reassemble using new parts from a rebuild kit -- springs, gaskets, new accelerator pump. Also replace the floats and seal the well plugs.
Rochester Carburetors, Revised Edition: Doug Roe:...
How to Rebuild & Modify Rochester Quadrajet...

[Super_Dave]

Welcome Nygaard!

Our Storholt side of the family has some Nygaard's in it and an Olympic skier; Jan Egil Storholt... who knows...

The 200r4 transmission is a direct bolt in on your 350; no modifications. The 700r4 will need a shorter drive shaft and cross member relocated. With a 300hp engine, and mostly street driving, a 200r4 will deliver what you are asking for.

As for Vortec heads; yes, they are great for an additional 30-40hp, have better flow characteristics, higher velocities and better chamber designs making for better fuel mixtures and more efficient burning... Best bang for the buck for cheap HP gains.

As for the intake manifold, make sure you buy one that is designed for the Vortec heads. The mating angles are not the same on Vortec's as the are on all the other SBC heads.

A good set of headers and HEI ignition with quality plugs and wires are a given.

If your budget allows, there is always the EFI Kits that are bolt-on and deliver a "self learning" system that adjusts to your driving style. You get the benefits of fuel injection system (economy, cold starting, performance gains, etc) while using a traditional carburetor based intake. They are good for a wide range of HP from mild to over 650HP. Coupled with a 200r4 and Vortec heads, you have a killer combination. It's all about budget.

There are several well known manufacturers in this market segment and they have been out for years. There are articles (like this: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...g-efi-systems/ ) all over the web and many YouTube videos.

Time is money... spend your time deciding on what you want and can afford and then spend your money. And remember, sometimes you spend more up front and get it back on the back-end in performance, economy and ease of installation...

Good luck and welcome aboard!

[1976gmc20]

The 200r4 transmission is a direct bolt in on your 350; no modifications.

What about the shift linkage ??? There won't be four drive positions on the column.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

What about the shift linkage ??? There won't be four drive positions on the column.

A TV Cable Kit and column indicator swap will be needed. Plenty of articles on installing and adjusting the TV cable linkage.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/497...smission-swap/

Read the article and Click on the gallery and read the steps involved in the 2004r upgrades...
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmi...mission-build/

... I am sure there are a lot more if you want to research....

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

A TV Cable Kit and column indicator swap will be needed. Plenty of articles on installing and adjusting the TV cable linkage.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/497...smission-swap/

Read the article and Click on the gallery and read the steps involved in the 2004r upgrades...
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmi...mission-build/

... I am sure there are a lot more if you want to research....

Thanks - just wanted to clarify the level of "bolt-in" for the fellow asking the questions

[jjmorrse]

Transmission- An old smallbock chevy doesn't really get great mileage anyway. If it were my truck, I would just freshen up the 350 transmission and have fun. There are all sorts of upgrades available for it as well. the TH400 was the non overdrive that was more heavy duty. The 700 trans is sometimes criticized, but it does have OD. I think the earlier ones gave the later ones a bad name (as well as the fact that the cable being mis-adjusted could in short order turn a 700 into a one speed transmission). They addressed a lot of issues during the later years, though fixing problem areas, increasing spline count, and generally beefing them up. Now people who work with them can put a lot of horsepower in front of them, without any problems, but that involves a significant monetary cost.

Engine-The old HEI ignitions are pretty decent and reliable at low rpm's, as are a decently clean stock quadrajet. In terms of a daily driver, in my experience, sometimes less is more in terms of engine modifications. Too much cam and induction sometimes makes the truck worse for everyday. Of course not much says 70s better than dual 4 barrels and a tunnel ram on a street vehicle. They quit that around 1982, after too many tuning-related chest hair fires.

wheels- I don't have much, except to say to look at the frame near the steering box and check for cracks when you replace them. They tend to crack there.

That is a really nice looking truck. Since mine is for towing, it is a dually, but I always liked the old steppers the best in terms of looks. Two things to blame for it: Colt Seavers, and Stompers.

[1976gmc20]

The 700 trans is sometimes criticized, but it does have OD. I think the earlier ones gave the later ones a bad name (as well as the fact that the cable being mis-adjusted could in short order turn a 700 into a one speed transmission). They addressed a lot of issues during the later years, though fixing problem areas, increasing spline count, and generally beefing them up.

Must be true, because our 1991 GMC has had no transmission problems

[Nygaard]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

My 76 already had the smog pump removed (it was also a California truck), but they left the damn exhaust injection lines sticking out all over. I yanked them off and plugged the holes in the manifolds with standard plumbing plugs.

It had a Holley carb on it when I got it and I have no idea if that was original. It ran pretty good on the highway but was terrible in the woods: at low speeds it would flood and barf fuel all over the top of the engine. I got a Q-jet from a junkyard and paid a neighbor to rebuild it and it's been on there ever since 1996 with no problems other than the automatic choke which I had to jerk off because it would stick closed.

As I said before, the 3 speed automatics that I had (1971,1973) were terrible on gas mileage compared to a 4 speed manual, and they didn't hold up under the use/abuse that I put them through. We have a four speed auto in the 4wd Suburban (1991) and it seems to do a lot better although people say they are not as durable as the old TH350. I still prefer the old SM465 four speed manual; it's a truck transmission meant to do truck things.

So yeah - you would probably like the 4sp OD automatic a lot better. It's just a question of how much it would cost to convert it versus just getting the old TH350 rebuilt, and keeping it "original". I can't remember: does the 76 have the transmission indicator up on the column or built into the dash ??? It's not going to be a simple bolt in conversion although much simpler in a 2wd than a 4wd.

Sounds like whoever did it, did a half assed job! If the Holley carb was installed by the same guy it COULD explain the issues..
Anyway - based on the feedback I think I'll stick with the Quadrajet for now though, and only change the manifold + get rid of the smog pump.

After A LOT of reading on the transmission swap I have decided to stick with the TH350 (unless it turns out to be eating itself). It is too much trouble and I don't like the idea of having to modify the frame.
Even with the stock engine and smog pump it has plenty of power to run a higher gearing, so I will go for slightly larger tires and see how that works out. 235/75R15 for the winter set I soon need, and (if I like that setup) 255/70R15 on some nice 8x15's for next summer.

Originally Posted by rich weyand

For mileage and performance in street driving, keep the Quadrajet carb.

If you replace the Quadrajet, you must get one tuned for your vehicle. They are NOT all the same. There are lots of little air bleeds and such where the hole size varies depending on the intended application.

Easier is to rebuild the Quadrajet you have. Several books detail this process, and it's not hard. Mostly disassemble, clean, reassemble using new parts from a rebuild kit -- springs, gaskets, new accelerator pump. Also replace the floats and seal the well plugs.
Rochester Carburetors, Revised Edition: Doug Roe: 9780895863010: Amazon.com: Books

How to Rebuild & Modify Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors (S-a Design): Cliff Ruggles: 9781932494181: Amazon.com: Books

Thanks, those could come in handy!

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

Welcome Nygaard!

Our Storholt side of the family has some Nygaard's in it and an Olympic skier; Jan Egil Storholt... who knows...

The 200r4 transmission is a direct bolt in on your 350; no modifications. The 700r4 will need a shorter drive shaft and cross member relocated. With a 300hp engine, and mostly street driving, a 200r4 will deliver what you are asking for.

As for Vortec heads; yes, they are great for an additional 30-40hp, have better flow characteristics, higher velocities and better chamber designs making for better fuel mixtures and more efficient burning... Best bang for the buck for cheap HP gains.

As for the intake manifold, make sure you buy one that is designed for the Vortec heads. The mating angles are not the same on Vortec's as the are on all the other SBC heads.

A good set of headers and HEI ignition with quality plugs and wires are a given.

If your budget allows, there is always the EFI Kits that are bolt-on and deliver a "self learning" system that adjusts to your driving style. You get the benefits of fuel injection system (economy, cold starting, performance gains, etc) while using a traditional carburetor based intake. They are good for a wide range of HP from mild to over 650HP. Coupled with a 200r4 and Vortec heads, you have a killer combination. It's all about budget.

There are several well known manufacturers in this market segment and they have been out for years. There are articles (like this: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...g-efi-systems/ ) all over the web and many YouTube videos.

Time is money... spend your time deciding on what you want and can afford and then spend your money. And remember, sometimes you spend more up front and get it back on the back-end in performance, economy and ease of installation...

Good luck and welcome aboard!

Thanks!

Interesting... I have Norwegian relatives

The Vortec heads came to my attention as they are mentioned just about everywhere as solid, reliable performers, and they are capable of delivering the power and torque that I am looking for.
A good product at a great price is always nice, but I am more interested in performance and reliability. That's why I was looking into the matched Edelbrock kits, but I see a lot of comments on how it is overpriced in relation to what you actually get..

I was looking into the EFI kits as well but decided against it for two reasons:
1. Simplicity. The main reason I got sick of my modern, turbocharged 2.0 was the insane amount of electronic junk! It made great power and got decent mileage, but it was almost impossible to do any work on without having it hooked up to a computer.
2. Price. With shipping, import taxes and so on, a ~$2500 EFI kit would end up costing me over $4000...

I appreciate the input though!

Originally Posted by jjmorrse

Transmission- An old smallbock chevy doesn't really get great mileage anyway. If it were my truck, I would just freshen up the 350 transmission and have fun. There are all sorts of upgrades available for it as well. the TH400 was the non overdrive that was more heavy duty. The 700 trans is sometimes criticized, but it does have OD. I think the earlier ones gave the later ones a bad name (as well as the fact that the cable being mis-adjusted could in short order turn a 700 into a one speed transmission). They addressed a lot of issues during the later years, though fixing problem areas, increasing spline count, and generally beefing them up. Now people who work with them can put a lot of horsepower in front of them, without any problems, but that involves a significant monetary cost.

Engine-The old HEI ignitions are pretty decent and reliable at low rpm's, as are a decently clean stock quadrajet. In terms of a daily driver, in my experience, sometimes less is more in terms of engine modifications. Too much cam and induction sometimes makes the truck worse for everyday. Of course not much says 70s better than dual 4 barrels and a tunnel ram on a street vehicle. They quit that around 1982, after too many tuning-related chest hair fires.

wheels- I don't have much, except to say to look at the frame near the steering box and check for cracks when you replace them. They tend to crack there.

That is a really nice looking truck. Since mine is for towing, it is a dually, but I always liked the old steppers the best in terms of looks. Two things to blame for it: Colt Seavers, and Stompers.

That one made my day!

Any recommended transmission upgrades - besides torque converter? It will be taken apart anyway to find out what causes the issues, so now would be a good time to rebuild it with some upgraded parts.

And I agree. As mentioned in the first post, I don't want to go overboard on the engine modification - driveability and reliability comes first.
What would your ideal setup look like for this kind of usag?

[jjmorrse]

I am not much of a transmission guy, but you might want to look into options for transmission upgrade kits (sometimes called shift kits/shift improver kits). Stock transmission design is sometimes a compromise between a nice smooth-feeling, non jarring shift, and ideal performance in terms of line pressure and internal temperatures. They are pretty inexpensive, and different ones have different amounts of shift firmness. Seems to be a lot of strong opinions about which brands are good and which are not.

[Nygaard]

Originally Posted by jjmorrse

I am not much of a transmission guy, but you might want to look into options for transmission upgrade kits (sometimes called shift kits/shift improver kits). Stock transmission design is sometimes a compromise between a nice smooth-feeling, non jarring shift, and ideal performance in terms of line pressure and internal temperatures. They are pretty inexpensive, and different ones have different amounts of shift firmness. Seems to be a lot of strong opinions about which brands are good and which are not.

Thanks, found some interesting options on Summit.
I think I'll leave the transmission setup as it is for now though and see how it drives after a service/tuneup. I have a suspicion that it didn't circulate the oil properly.

[Nygaard]

It turned out that pretty much all of the heating/AC stuff has been pulled out of the truck and will need to be replaced.

I saw this Vintage Air system a while back in a Hot Rod Garage episode https://youtu.be/Hn-i3MRSXsk?list=PL...tllqqFbb&t=195 and found a kit that should work for my truck http://www.vintageair.com/2015%20Cat...talog%2038.pdf
But is it any good/worth the price? Seems like a simpler and better option than to start rebuilding the original system form scratch.

AC isn't really a "must have" for me though, as heating is more important in the climate I live in.