Disk Swap

[RyansToy]

Newbie asking a odd question... Forwarned!

It seems like a hastle to deal with all the disk swap things... I have a 6 lug truck (1968 2wd).

I grew up with Toyota 4wd's. Toyota released the prerunner back in 1998. It runs the 4wd frame and knuckles with a simple cover plate over the axle holes.

This brings me to my question. What if you took a IFS 4wd truck spindles, brakes, Rotors, hubs, and bolted it onto the 1968 (old truck's) ball joints?

If the spindles need to be reamed for the new ball joints, you could do that?

On a similar note, could a Caprice spindle brake assembly be used?

I would prefer a Hub + Brake rotor, to a hub-less assembly. Seems like you could retrofit an OE 6 lug rotor easier..

[68SWB4x4]

You can buy spindles which use a 6 lug rotor and bolt right up from the vendors on this board

[cooperhw]

Easiest way I know of is to grab a donor like a 73-89 Suburban (cheap and plentiful) with 5 lugs, disc brakes, etc. and pull the entire crossmember out and slip it under your 68. I did the entire front end assembly in one day (by myself)on my C-30. Next day did the entire rearend swap. Newer rearend, better gears, etc. Simple.
Now you could go and re-invent the wheel if you want to,

[RyansToy]

I saw the swap details listed here;

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...68&postcount=4

its a great resource, but I am irritated that you have to buy special rotors to use the 6 bolt pattern.

I think it would be nice to find something that is "off the shelf"...

The reason I don't go with a kit, is the USA=CAN exchange right now. I'll get raped on the exchange and duty.

[Kaptain Kadian]

I just put a mcgaughys 6 lug conversion kit on my 70. Pretty easy and I am no mechanic. I am still trying to get my brake light to quit coming on, but I digress.

[88Stanger]

just completed this, 6 lug disc upfront now.

[picklito]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

I am still trying to get my brake light to quit coming on, but I digress.

Did you adjust the brake light switch at the pedal?

[Kaptain Kadian]

No, didn't know to do that. How do I go about doing that? Thanks

[picklito]

Just follow the rubber brake pad up its metal arm, and you'll see a "plunger switch" against the arm. The switch's housing it threaded for adjustment. When brake pedal is released and all the way up the plunger switch is depressed by the arm and the brake lights go off. Adjust it so that as soon an you begin to push on the pedal the plunger comes out and actuates the brake lights. 5 minute fix if that's your problem.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by picklito

Just follow the rubber brake pad up its metal arm, and you'll see a "plunger switch" against the arm. The switch's housing it threaded for adjustment. When brake pedal is released and all the way up the plunger switch is depressed by the arm and the brake lights go off. Adjust it so that as soon an you begin to push on the pedal the plunger comes out and actuates the brake lights. 5 minute fix if that's your problem.

I believe he is talking about the "brakes" light on the dash and not his rear brake lights.

If that is the case, stomp on your brake pedal HARD, that usually solves the problem.

[Kaptain Kadian]

I am talking about the one on the dash.

[RyansToy]

So i found a 1975 truck being parted out.

What would a complete front end be worth?
Disk to disk (calipers)?

with the brake booster?

Don't really have a good idea where I should be starting my offer...

[picklito]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

I am talking about the one on the dash.

So that light is most likely coming from the proportioning valve. Did you use the lock out tool when you bled the brakes?

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by RyansToy

So i found a 1975 truck being parted out.

What would a complete front end be worth?
Disk to disk (calipers)?

with the brake booster?

Don't really have a good idea where I should be starting my offer...

I wouldn't want to pay over $200