Getting rid of and replacing this old caulk?

[In The Ten Ring]

How do I remove this stuff from the heater core box and the firewall?

What do I replace it with?

[MY67GMC]

Is that just dum-dum (3M strip caulk) or something else. If dum-dum, manual removal with a putty knife/scraper should do it.

[cooperhw]

Gas and a match. About a gallon should do. I kid.

Yeah, a scraper will get the bulk off and wire brush the rest. I used to stuff comes in a roll the AC guys call "Monkey Poop".

[FirstOwner69]

As noted above. Scrape it off. I would then use mineral spirits to attempt to remove the residue. Most vendors sell "heater gasket" or "heater seal" kits.

[Big Kev-O]

Replace it with Butyl tape. It seals great and conforms under pressure to make a nice tight weatherproof seal that will last. Sometimes you can find it at the local hardware store or HVAC supply house.

[In The Ten Ring]

Should I worry about the surface rust on the metal in the middle section?

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Should I worry about the surface rust on the metal in the middle section?

Rust is rust. Remove it with a wire wheel or spray it with any rust converter. Duplicolor has one (Rust Fix) that you can get at almost any auto parts store along with a decent flat black paint to finish off with. No reason not to take care of it while it's apart.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Rust is rust. Remove it with a wire wheel or spray it with any rust converter. Duplicolor has one (Rust Fix) that you can get at almost any auto parts store along with a decent flat black paint to finish off with. No reason not to take care of it while it's apart.

Should I remove it from the housing first? It seems to be held on with rivets, I have a rivet tool.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Should I remove it from the housing first? It seems to be held on with rivets, I have a rivet tool.

The rust converter is a spray so, you can get into all of those rusty places a tool won't reach and it will even wick between the riveted pieces so it's probably not necessary to completely disassemble it. What a converter does is chemically change iron oxide (rust) into iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material which actually prevents further corrosion if you cover it with a waterproof coating like enamel. In any event be sure to knock off the big pieces first.

[In The Ten Ring]

I have used NAPA Rust Treatment (turns to a black finish after it dries, 24 hours) and Krylon exterior spray paint. Is that good enough to prevent further rust or must it be an enamel?

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I have used NAPA Rust Treatment (turns to a black finish after it dries, 24 hours) and Krylon exterior spray paint. Is that good enough to prevent further rust or must it be an enamel?

All of those work really well. Krylon over the top works as well as any paint you can get!

[In The Ten Ring]

Good to hear! I've been using that combination all summer on truck parts!

[leftybass209]

The benefit to removing it, is the flapper/diverter is under there. It is a metal plate wrapped with foam and stapled together. The foam can be deteriorated or shrunk, thereby not effectively diverting any air. I took mine apart and it didn't take very long to fix. I purchased a new heater seal kit and it made the job cake.

The seal kits come with a kneading type rope seal which is what you were asking how to remove. It can be purchased at any auto parts store, or better yet, the butyl tape would seal better.

[englands 71]

I have a rubber wheel eraser that I put on my drill and use for stripes , double sided tape , glue etc.
on my box I used a good quality seam sealer. 3m

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by leftybass209

The benefit to removing it, is the flapper/diverter is under there. It is a metal plate wrapped with foam and stapled together. The foam can be deteriorated or shrunk, thereby not effectively diverting any air. I took mine apart and it didn't take very long to fix. I purchased a new heater seal kit and it made the job cake.

The seal kits come with a kneading type rope seal which is what you were asking how to remove. It can be purchased at any auto parts store, or better yet, the butyl tape would seal better.

That does it! I am going to take it apart as soon as I get my pants out of the dryer.

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

That does it! I am going to take it apart as soon as I get my pants out of the dryer.

I'm afraid to ask....

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

I'm afraid to ask....

Don't then! LOL

I have the heater box apart, using my drill on the rivets. I used a scraper to remove the caulk, followed up by a washing brush and dish washing detergent. There seemed to be a lot of "road grime" in there. There was also a great deal of pine needles, in a place I don't think I could have gotten to without this level of disassembly.

I am afraid to drill out the rivet holding the flap control as I am not sure if I can get my rivet tool back in there to re-rivet it. Now the metal in the center section (with the opening in the center) I now have soaking in Evaporust so at least that will be de-rusted. The rubber around my flapper seems to be soft so I won't replace it.

How do you get the round rubber gasket out of the right side (of the pic)? This is opposite the fan. Is it just glued in there?

[special-K]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

That does it! I am going to take it apart as soon as I get my pants out of the dryer.

You only have one pair?

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by special-K

You only have one pair?

Yep. Only 1 pair for working in. Odd set up for sure!