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09-12-2003, 05:07 PM | #1 |
Low & Slow
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,047
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What am I going to be looking at price wise (rear bags)
OK here's the deal, I have a 70' lwb fleet pickup with 2 1/2" drop spindles (disc brakes of coarse), 1 1/2" drop springs in front also and, 4" drop springs in the back for a total of 4/4 drop. I'm considering putting in some 5" or 6" drop springs to drop the rear a bit more but, my problem is I don't want my truck to be totally useless as a truck. I say this because I am not going to C-notch the frame. That is why I am starting to look into a rear bag setup. I don't want anything crazy, just two bags a small air tank and small compressor. I'm not interested in air out and air in speed or how many times I can go up and down before I have to fill the tank. This is mainly because I want to have some load handling capability when I use my truck as a truck. Can anyone help me out? I hope that covers everything if not, let me know what else you need to know. Thanks, Billy
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70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop |
09-12-2003, 06:31 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,064
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You can just mount the bags in place of the coils & run schrader valves to fill them when needed. I mounted the schrader valves to my license plate box & ran the air lines from the bags along the inside of the framerails to the box. When I wanted to carry a load (hook up my trailer), I flipped the license plate up, grabbed my air hose & filled the valves & checked the pressure w/my tire gauge. I used this method for almost 2yrs w/o major problems.
I say major because the only issues were once I started filling the bags 2-3 times a week (usually in the dark early, early am) I would sometimes bend the 'needle' for the valve & it wouldn't fill properly. I would have to steal another schrader valve from a spare tire to be able to fill it. So, once I started pulling the trailer that much, I hooked up a tank, compressor, & gauge/controller to make life easier. Both ways work, but I will admit I much prefer the tank/comp/controller vs. filling by hand. I left the schraders on my l.plate box just in case I ever needed them for an emergency fill. Ooops.... cost was about $300 for bags, schrader valves & bag fittings, & 30ft DOT airline delivered to my door from AirRide.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 09-12-2003 at 06:33 PM. |
09-12-2003, 06:33 PM | #3 |
Low & Slow
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,047
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Thanks scoti, I am wanting to be able to lower and raise it as needed but, I would also like to occasionally drop the frame on the axle tubes or atleast close to it and be able to air it back up and drive off.
Anyone else?
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70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop |
09-12-2003, 06:44 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,064
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AirRide offers a 2whl compressor/installer kit that would work for you for $359. I used the ARC1001 kit which is the 4whl installer kit @ $499, but instead of front/rear, mine is set up for L/R w/independent control of air psi. for each side (and no issues w/air transfer from side-to-side). I keep the control paddle under my seat & out of the way until it's needed.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
09-12-2003, 06:49 PM | #5 |
Low & Slow
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,047
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is that with the two bags?
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70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop |
09-12-2003, 06:55 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tri Valley California
Posts: 792
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If you are not going to c-notch it I would go with Early Classics bag- they are huge and can you alot more lift then a typical bag will. Hope that made sense. As for valves and tank, and compressor i would get about 3 gallons of air, compressor, and small valves. You dont need a guage for your rear. You will be able to tell where is a good ride height.
If you are really intrested PM and I can get you some good deals on all the stuff. |
09-12-2003, 06:55 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,064
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No. Firestone #6873's are $125 each. The gauge is a good idea (no offense fastbagged) because you can adj. your panhard bar for a set ride height/air psi. then always return to it w/o having to wonder how far off you are.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 09-12-2003 at 06:59 PM. |
09-13-2003, 02:11 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 441
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What r leafs? I have a 77 I wanna do it ot, with a 2/4 currently.
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09-13-2003, 09:07 AM | #9 |
Happy to be here
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 39,021
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Senor_paco,
The system they are describing is for the rear of 67-72 GM trucks. "Most" of them have a trailing arm suspension, with coil springs. Your 77 with leaf spring rear suspension is very simple to do too. If you just want rear air for towing, you can use a bolt in set up like kit #1 pictured below. If you want full four corner control, you will have to add a front kit... kit #1
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