Which oil pan?

[GMJimmy]

I've got a new project. A 68 SWB fleetside with a 5.3 LS engine in it. The stock oil pan is too low and I'm planning on replacing it with a Holley 302-1 or a 302-2 or something better if there is one. Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks.

[cableguy0]

I cant answer your question but Im going to move this to the Ls section for you. The guys there will be able to help you out.

[hugger6933]

The H3 pan may be a ton cheaper and I know the S-10 guys are using them for that type of truck so it should be plenty for yours. Jim

[TwinsSpeedShop]

The f body pan was $300 to my door. Read up on the Holley pans, you need to modify the windage tray which scares me

[GMJimmy]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

I cant answer your question but Im going to move this to the Ls section for you. The guys there will be able to help you out.

Thanks... I'm not sure where to ask this.

[GMJimmy]

ooops

[GMJimmy]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

The H3 pan may be a ton cheaper and I know the S-10 guys are using them for that type of truck so it should be plenty for yours. Jim

What is the H3 pan?

Originally Posted by TwinsSpeedShop

The f body pan was $300 to my door. Read up on the Holley pans, you need to modify the windage tray which scares me

How low is the F body pan in a 68?

[BR3W CITY]

The "H3" pan is another name for something called the LH8 or "Hot Rod" Pan. Allow me to expound: The Hummer H3 got made for a few end-run years in a model called the Alpha, which replaced the 3.7 5cylinder with a setup for the 5.3 but still retaining hummers AWD system. When GM did that version of the truck, they approached it much like a hot rodder would, and simply went into the GM parts locker for a solution.

GM had started selling crate motors and replacement motors by that time, and they had an existing part # in their "Hot Rod Swap Kit" which, sure enough, just happen to be the SAME pan that fits the Hummer. For most purposes, its the universal solution.

It WILL still hang about to crossmember level, but not below, and clear the crossmember just fine.

There are multiple sources, but searches for "GM Hot Rod Pan, LH8 Pan, or H3 Alpha Pan" will all return the same part #'s. I suggest checking places like Nalley (which sells GM part #'s for a few $$ less than most local dealers and no tax).

[Paul Y]

Could always look at ebay for a CTSV pan. Picked up a new one including windage tray and dipstick for $100 + the ride.

Not fitted the engine yet but looks like it will give plenty of clearance over the stock truck one.

P.

[boostedc10]

Incorrect info removed at request of the poster.

[GMJimmy]

Thanks for all the help everyone. The muscle car pan kit at jegs for 149.00 with all I need sure beats 350 for the Holley 302-2. The Holley looks nicer and holds 3/4 of a qt. more oil but when you're on a budget........
Thanks again.

[dayj1]

The GM muscle car pan is a great deal when you need to replace a truck pan. Unfortunately, it's not much help for gaining clearance over the truck pan. The H3/muscle car pan is just over 1/2 shallower than a truck pan (7.75" vs 8.34"). For comparison, a CTS-V pan is 7" deep, and F-Body pan is 5.62" and the Holley 302-1 is 5.71".

Here's a link to various oil pan dimensions:

http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/pages.php?pID=8&CDpath=0

And a comparison of the Holley pan to the H3 pan:

[boostedc10]

Originally Posted by dayj1

The GM muscle car pan is a great deal when you need to replace a truck pan. Unfortunately, it's not much help for gaining clearance over the truck pan. The H3/muscle car pan is just over 1/2 shallower than a truck pan (7.75" vs 8.34"). For comparison, a CTS-V pan is 7" deep, and F-Body pan is 5.62" and the Holley 302-1 is 5.71".

Here's a link to various oil pan dimensions:

http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/pages.php?pID=8&CDpath=0

And a comparison of the Holley pan to the H3 pan:

Yup Dayj1 is right. Don't know how I missed the actual numbers on the jegs page too. Thanks for the correction Dayj1. For some reason I thought that pan was closer to the fbody pan.

[68c10airstream]

I installed the "F" body pan and made my own motor mount brackets using the organ donor 2001 ls mounts. I chose the "F" body pan for the additional reason it's the thinnest up front below the timing cover. My steering linkage center section ( stock linkage) almost rubs the pan as it passes under the front lip. The clearance is 1/4" max. The low sump area is still higher than the factory cross member by maybe 1/2".

[Aruba1]

Jimmy,

I just did this and I used a stock truck oil pan. I can take picture tonight and post them but the truck pan is just fine and fits like a glove. Personally I don't see any reason to go with the lower profile pan. Have you already installed your engine and realized that you want a lower profile pan? If not, and if you are on a budget, I'll say go with stock and spend the money elsewhere. Believe me, there will be more i$$ue$ that will come along with this swap.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Aruba1

Personally I don't see any reason to go with the lower profile pan.

With most mounts the truck pan is going to be lower than the crossmember. Usually in the range of about 3/4" lower. That is not a problem at all for stock height trucks. But, if you lower the truck enough, it becomes a real possibility that you'll catch the oil pan on something. It's much better to drag to crossmember than the oil sump. I don't know the OP's reasoning behind wanting a shallower oil pan, but this is one possibiilty.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by dayj1

With most mounts the truck pan is going to be lower than the crossmember. Usually in the range of about 3/4" lower. That is not a problem at all for stock height trucks. But, if you lower the truck enough, it becomes a real possibility that you'll catch the oil pan on something. It's much better to drag to crossmember than the oil sump. I don't know the OP's reasoning behind wanting a shallower oil pan, but this is one possibiilty.

This is true. I just talked to a guy a week ago Sunday that broke his oil pan because it hung lower than his cross member. He said that it was not a fun experience...... Also had a guy looking at my '67 Panel when I was putting gas in it and while talking to him he mentioned that he had his truck oil pan sectioned and welded back together to shorten it. Not sure how that would work but he said he hadn't had any trouble with it. I would think you would have to get a shorter pickup tube for the oil pump. Dunno what they look like inside the pan.

LockDoc

[Aruba1]

Originally Posted by dayj1

That is not a problem at all for stock height trucks. But, if you lower the truck enough, it becomes a real possibility that you'll catch the oil pan on something.

Oh ok, I now see the reasoning behind the question as a lot of people likes to lower these truck. Mine sits between 1-2 higher since I have HD suspension so probably that is why it was a noticeable issue to me. I'll check when I get home tonight how mine sits and I'll also post some pictures.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Not sure how that would work but he said he hadn't had any trouble with it. I would think you would have to get a shorter pickup tube for the oil pump. Dunno what they look like inside the pan.

LockDoc

Its pretty straightforward, just a matter of getting all the oil off the weld surface, sectioning it like you would a body panel or anything else, and weld her up. The oil pan is technically a support structure on the engine, so it is important to get a good weld and only use like-material.

As for the pickup tube, its possible to modify one, but its crucial that the pickup tube rests at the lowest/sump point. As long as it doesn't have any kinks or an excessive length, it'll work just fine.

[GMJimmy]

Thanks everyone for all the help and conversation. It really helps listening to all the suggestions. My 68 has been dropped 2-1/2 inches. The oil pan hangs about 2-1/2 inches below the cross member and about 2-1/2 to 3 inches from the road. I think the Holley pan may be the best choice for me.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Its pretty straightforward, just a matter of getting all the oil off the weld surface, sectioning it like you would a body panel or anything else, and weld her up. The oil pan is technically a support structure on the engine, so it is important to get a good weld and only use like-material.

As for the pickup tube, its possible to modify one, but its crucial that the pickup tube rests at the lowest/sump point. As long as it doesn't have any kinks or an excessive length, it'll work just fine.

Thanks for the input on that. I guess if a guy shortened the tube the same amount as the section he would be good to go. I am going to be picking up a '01 truck 5.3 and all matching components in the next couple of days so that's probably what I will do....

LockDoc

[Aruba1]

It's funny that I never paid attention to the oil pan when I installed the engine. Mine sticks about 2" also and I am not comfortable with that, even though my truck has a lot of ground clearance. I hope to build a skid plate soon that will provide protection to the pan, last thing I want is a hole in that thing.

[Hart_Rod]

Cadillac CTSV pan...

[GMJimmy]

Does anybody know what dipstick and tube is used with the Holley pan? My dipstick is the wrong one for the motor.
Thanks.

[Willie Makeit]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Cadillac CTSV pan...

i second this.