Floor rust

[70 c10 rook]

So I'm waiting for my fuel tank to arrive and start taking out the old rubber mat and this is the only rust I find on the truck is the best way to get rid of this grind it out or does someone have another way? I was just going to grind it it doesn't go thru the floor and it's a little thicker than just surface in a couple of spots. Also my fuel tank was seeping is there a good cleaner that will remove the stuff it's like a thick lacquer. Thanks for any help.

[70 c10 rook]

Another pic

[70 c10 rook]

Third pic

[swamp rat]

Wire brush it and use a rust converter

[pat english]

The DA sander with 80 grit would be best.Sand it down so you can see where the holes are.Your floor doesn't look bad.

[Jrainman]

floor looks good and solid . don't grind . Sand it , grinding is to abrasive , a good degreaser , clean the entire floor .

[hugger6933]

Da sand it with a80 grit then a 180 grit then spray some type of rust inhibiting primer on after a rust converter, neutralizer. I use epoxy some use self etch.

[Gromit]

The hardest part on mine was cleaning out and prepping the grooves in the floorboard under the door thresholds.

Finally I found a rotary wire brush that fit right down inside there and I couldn't have done without it (photo attached) - a but hard to find that exact small size (about 1/2" diameter) but maybe try Sears or Home Depot

While the tank is out it is a good time to make sure your inside cab corners are well sealed and with good paint - pretty tough to get down in there to sand or brush but a $48 Harbor Freight flex-shaft grinder with a wire brush worked well (still it was tough though - soda blasting would have been better)..

Also under the rubber/plastic part of the accelerator pedal (that should just pop off by carefully lifting straight up - but first check to make sure you have that kind) there are two ball-ended bolts - check and make sure those aren't rusted in place. Don't crank on them because you could pop the weld-on nut they are screwed into off - a little WD-40 and some patience worked for me getting them out.

I soaked those bolts in molasses for a couple weeks while I worked on the floor and they came clean -(photo attached) - they are also available at LMC

Make sure to mask off your dash because all the sanding and brushing debris will get into every nook and cranny in your wiring and instruments and ventilation duct system.

Also I have read in this forum that GM paint and or primer contained lead so wear a respirator rated for lead paint.

[Gromit]

Here's a better description & photo of the exact brush type to prep the parts of the threshold sill channel that need re-painting

Weiler® 1/2" X 1/4" 302 Stainless Steel Stem-Mounted .0060" Crimped Wire End Brush

This is such a messy job you never want to do it again if possible so once done with the prep I'd suggest painting with the two-part polyurethane primer like SPI sells in quarts for about $35 (instead of a rattle-can enamel paint).. it can be put on with a brush if you don't mind a few brush marks and it should last a lot longer

Hope that helps

[70 c10 rook]

Thank you