Brake Question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**66ChevyMax** · 10-19-2015, 11:13 PM

Got a brake question, I have bled the brakes starting with closest, depress pedal and open bleed valve and fluid shoots out with plenty of force.

Pedal never tightens up, brakes only work when almost to the floor. No leaks, I'm thinking master is bad? Is there something with the master I can check or am I SOL?

Thanks,

blown240 · 10-19-2015, 11:18 PM

I was always told to start bleeding with the farthest...

Maybe that would help.

OR, is it drum brake? are the drums adjusted correctly?

**66ChevyMax** · 10-19-2015, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blown240

I was always told to start bleeding with the farthest...

Maybe that would help.

OR, is it drum brake? are the drums adjusted correctly?

I will try working towards the Master, new 4 wheel disc.

blown240 · 10-19-2015, 11:28 PM

My buddy got all new CPP discs on his 71. We had to bleed the crap out of it to get a pedal....

**Captainfab** · 10-20-2015, 12:48 AM

Start bleeding at the furthest which is the left rear, then right rear, right front, and then left front and see where your brakes are at. Also check to see that you are getting fluid at all 4 calipers. If not it is possible that the valve in the proportioning valve has slid one way or the other and needs to be centered again. POL sells a little tool that keeps the valve centered until you get the brakes bled.

cg285 · 10-20-2015, 09:20 AM

bleeding either way works, (close first, close last). doesn't take as long if you work your way from the master cyl back.
you have a modified brake system. lots of possibilities with the installation.

**66ChevyMax** · 10-20-2015, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blown240

My buddy got all new CPP discs on his 71. We had to bleed the crap out of it to get a pedal....

Define "the crap" like 3 times or 10 times

**66ChevyMax** · 10-20-2015, 08:02 PM

Bled from back to front, used clear tube and plastic catch. No air bubbles at all seen in the clear tube. Pedal gets a tiny bit better, let it sit for a minute and back to having a live pedal only on the last 10% of travel.

It's enough to stop the truck but I'm not liking it and I'm tired of brake fluid

Any ideas or help is welcome.

slowGN · 10-20-2015, 08:43 PM

Did you drill a new hole on the brake pedal. When I put power on mine I had to drill a hole about 1 inch below the factory hole. That took up all the slack.

WOLFMANmike · 10-20-2015, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66ChevyMax

Bled from back to front, used clear tube and plastic catch. No air bubbles at all seen in the clear tube. Pedal gets a tiny bit better, let it sit for a minute and back to having a live pedal only on the last 10% of travel.

It's enough to stop the truck but I'm not liking it and I'm tired of brake fluid

Any ideas or help is welcome.

i dont know if this will be of help to you or not as it sounds like my situation too .. only that you have a full custom brake set up and i got back yard mechanic crap POS Previous Owner Syndrome thanks Chevy Mike for that wording lol ok now back to my idea on mine the PO put in a 1985 bronco II brake master and booster set up plumbed really stupid but we wont get into that anyway Chevy Mike looked at my brake peddle and saw that the biggest reason for my peddle being so close to the floor is because the PO welded that brake push rod in the wrong location on the peddle so because of that my brakes are working very close to the floor ... since yours is a full custom aftermarket jober i was thinking maybe the same issue only that your rod should be an adjustable one so look for some kinda adjustment on that ? just an idea like i said i could be wrong but it never hurts to check ... HAPPY TRUCKIN

**MikeB** · 10-20-2015, 09:25 PM

Did the brakes ever work, or is this a brand new setup?

If new, did you bench-bleed the master cylinder (or firewall-bleed it with brake lines disconnected? Are the bleed screws located on the top of each caliper?

**66ChevyMax** · 10-20-2015, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowGN

Did you drill a new hole on the brake pedal. When I put power on mine I had to drill a hole about 1 inch below the factory hole. That took up all the slack.

I did not, it calls for one 3/4" below the factory hole but I didn't like the angle that created. May have to follow the instructions after all

**66ChevyMax** · 10-20-2015, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WOLFMANmike

i dont know if this will be of help to you or not as it sounds like my situation too .. only that you have a full custom brake set up and i got back yard mechanic crap POS Previous Owner Syndrome thanks Chevy Mike for that wording lol ok now back to my idea on mine the PO put in a 1985 bronco II brake master and booster set up plumbed really stupid but we wont get into that anyway Chevy Mike looked at my brake peddle and saw that the biggest reason for my peddle being so close to the floor is because the PO welded that brake push rod in the wrong location on the peddle so because of that my brakes are working very close to the floor ... since yours is a full custom aftermarket jober i was thinking maybe the same issue only that your rod should be an adjustable one so look for some kinda adjustment on that ? just an idea like i said i could be wrong but it never hurts to check ... HAPPY TRUCKIN

The rod is adjustable, I will start there and take some slack out.

**66ChevyMax** · 10-20-2015, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeB

Did the brakes ever work, or is this a brand new setup?

If new, did you bench-bleed the master cylinder (or firewall-bleed it with brake lines disconnected? Are the bleed screws located on the top of each caliper?

Brand New Setup, CPP disc and master, I firewall-bleed it with lines disconnected. I'm not seeing any air in the lines.

blown240 · 10-20-2015, 10:32 PM

You need to drill the new hole and move the rod. Makes a big difference. And by a crap ton, I mean 7-8 full bleeds...

**66ChevyMax** · 10-20-2015, 11:19 PM

Adjusted the length of the push rod and I think we are getting somewhere. I will start over tomorrow and move the hole down.

Thanks for all the help

WOLFMANmike · 10-21-2015, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66ChevyMax

Adjusted the length of the push rod and I think we are getting somewhere. I will start over tomorrow and move the hole down.

Thanks for all the help

your welcome brother Happy Truckin

**66ChevyMax** · 10-21-2015, 10:38 PM

move the hole down 3/4", extended push rod about 1/4", SUCCESS

Thanks again guys, I feel like an idiot, but I'm a idiot with BRAKES!

WOLFMANmike · 10-22-2015, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66ChevyMax

move the hole down 3/4", extended push rod about 1/4", SUCCESS

Thanks again guys, I feel like an idiot, but I'm a idiot with BRAKES!

Not a idiot brother you cant know everything. the only idiot is the guy who never asks what he needs to know about his project . and does not use the vast information this board and its people have to offer . i have learned that no question is to dumb to ask even the smallest ones that we feel we should know . are always answered to the best of everyone's ability's .. always remember that Happy Truckin

10-19-2015, 11:13 PM	#1
66ChevyMax Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Wolfforth, Texas Posts: 976	Brake Question Got a brake question, I have bled the brakes starting with closest, depress pedal and open bleed valve and fluid shoots out with plenty of force. Pedal never tightens up, brakes only work when almost to the floor. No leaks, I'm thinking master is bad? Is there something with the master I can check or am I SOL? Thanks, __________________ Craig 1966 Chevrolet C10 - Supercharged LS3 1968 Chevrolet Camaro 1957 Chevrolet 2dr Hardtop "It makes sence if you don't think about it" Mesquite 1966 C10 - LS3 W/ Air Ride http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4989763

10-19-2015, 11:18 PM	#2
blown240 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: CA Posts: 772	Re: Brake Question I was always told to start bleeding with the farthest... Maybe that would help. OR, is it drum brake? are the drums adjusted correctly? __________________ '61 Panel - Helms Bakery Truck - Daily Driver - FOR SALE

10-19-2015, 11:28 PM	#4
blown240 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: CA Posts: 772	Re: Brake Question My buddy got all new CPP discs on his 71. We had to bleed the crap out of it to get a pedal.... __________________ '61 Panel - Helms Bakery Truck - Daily Driver - FOR SALE

10-20-2015, 12:48 AM	#5
Captainfab 60-66 Nut Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho Posts: 23,250	Re: Brake Question Start bleeding at the furthest which is the left rear, then right rear, right front, and then left front and see where your brakes are at. Also check to see that you are getting fluid at all 4 calipers. If not it is possible that the valve in the proportioning valve has slid one way or the other and needs to be centered again. POL sells a little tool that keeps the valve centered until you get the brakes bled. __________________ Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE

10-20-2015, 09:20 AM	#6
cg285 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: sumterville, florida Posts: 914	Re: Brake Question bleeding either way works, (close first, close last). doesn't take as long if you work your way from the master cyl back. you have a modified brake system. lots of possibilities with the installation.

10-20-2015, 08:02 PM	#8
66ChevyMax Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Wolfforth, Texas Posts: 976	Re: Brake Question Bled from back to front, used clear tube and plastic catch. No air bubbles at all seen in the clear tube. Pedal gets a tiny bit better, let it sit for a minute and back to having a live pedal only on the last 10% of travel. It's enough to stop the truck but I'm not liking it and I'm tired of brake fluid Any ideas or help is welcome. __________________ Craig 1966 Chevrolet C10 - Supercharged LS3 1968 Chevrolet Camaro 1957 Chevrolet 2dr Hardtop "It makes sence if you don't think about it" Mesquite 1966 C10 - LS3 W/ Air Ride http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4989763

10-20-2015, 08:43 PM	#9
slowGN Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: richmond, va Posts: 47	Re: Brake Question Did you drill a new hole on the brake pedal. When I put power on mine I had to drill a hole about 1 inch below the factory hole. That took up all the slack.

10-20-2015, 09:25 PM	#11
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,563	Re: Brake Question Did the brakes ever work, or is this a brand new setup? If new, did you bench-bleed the master cylinder (or firewall-bleed it with brake lines disconnected? Are the bleed screws located on the top of each caliper? __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

10-20-2015, 10:32 PM	#15
blown240 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: CA Posts: 772	Re: Brake Question You need to drill the new hole and move the rod. Makes a big difference. And by a crap ton, I mean 7-8 full bleeds... __________________ '61 Panel - Helms Bakery Truck - Daily Driver - FOR SALE

10-20-2015, 11:19 PM	#16
66ChevyMax Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Wolfforth, Texas Posts: 976	Re: Brake Question Adjusted the length of the push rod and I think we are getting somewhere. I will start over tomorrow and move the hole down. Thanks for all the help __________________ Craig 1966 Chevrolet C10 - Supercharged LS3 1968 Chevrolet Camaro 1957 Chevrolet 2dr Hardtop "It makes sence if you don't think about it" Mesquite 1966 C10 - LS3 W/ Air Ride http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4989763

10-21-2015, 10:38 PM	#18
66ChevyMax Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Wolfforth, Texas Posts: 976	Re: Brake Question move the hole down 3/4", extended push rod about 1/4", SUCCESS Thanks again guys, I feel like an idiot, but I'm a idiot with BRAKES! __________________ Craig 1966 Chevrolet C10 - Supercharged LS3 1968 Chevrolet Camaro 1957 Chevrolet 2dr Hardtop "It makes sence if you don't think about it" Mesquite 1966 C10 - LS3 W/ Air Ride http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4989763



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