? on u-joint removal

[csdineley]

Hello

So I'm trying to replace my rear u-joint on my 87 R20. It looks to have been there since the factory put it in. In other words rusted as hell. I finally got the stupid clips off. But can't seem to get the caps to move a mm. After beating on them for an hour or so. (Using an impact socket on the cap and hitting it.) Sorry don't have a press with me at the moment.

So any tips, tricks or other advice? Please

[Ski-me]

Vice by chance?
Add some heat to it (just guessing on this on)?

[chrismoore701]

Get a cut off wheel and cut the undoing out. Then Heat the axle till almost red beat until out. Just did that the other day

[enaberif]

If they are stock ujoints then you have to generally melt the wax. If you look closely you will see two holes and GM filled these up.

Grab a hot heat source melt them or drill them out and have fun.

[franken]

I used to change U-joints on the side of the road w/ 2 sockets and a hammer. You need to get the DS out and on the ground.
Vise is best or a big C-clamp works.
No need for heat.

[csdineley]

Thanks guys I'll give those idea a shot here this morning. I do have the rear drive shaft out and in a vise. And I have a map gas torch. Hopefully letting the PB bluster sit on it over night helped.

[cadillac_al]

I didn't know if they still used that plastic in the U joints in 87. If they do, then it will take a LOT of pounding to get them out and I would worry about damaging a yoke. The easy way is to heat them with the cap facing upwards. Sometimes the caps will pop out and go flying so you don't want it facing you.

[csdineley]

Another ? One of the strap bolts broke off in the yoke. Is there an easy solution? And what size bolt are those?

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by csdineley

Another ? One of the strap bolts broke off in the yoke. Is there an easy solution? And what size bolt are those?

Well......not saying I've done that?!? I mistaken ft-lbs with in-lbs. Big difference!

Is this in your rear differential yoke? If so, you might be able to drill it out carefully, but you may end up damaging the threads in there.

What I did is go to junk yard and find another yoke for your rear end. Then you will need to mark both the nut and thread so that it can be put back into the same place. The concern is over crushing the "crush sleeve" inside the rear differential. This method gets pro's and con's in regards to the crush sleeve, but I also see it being used in Chilton book so I'm thinking it's a decent method. If the seal is leaking, now is the time to put in a new one if the yoke is off. Like a $8 part.

What rear end do you have and what size ujoint? 14 bolt SF with 1350 yoke?

[csdineley]

14bff 1350 u-joint.

[Jeepwm69]

Get a cutoff wheel and cut the inside of the ujoint out. When you're trying to push it out now you're trying to move two stuck caps at once. If you cut out the center of the ujoint you only have to press/hammer out one cap at a time and are much less likely to mess up your ears on the dshaft.

As far as the twisted off bolt, I'd drill it out and replace it with the Ubolts instead of straps. They're stronger anyway. Help! part number was 81002 on mine.

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

I didn't know if they still used that plastic in the U joints in 87. If they do, then it will take a LOT of pounding to get them out and I would worry about damaging a yoke. The easy way is to heat them with the cap facing upwards. Sometimes the caps will pop out and go flying so you don't want it facing you.

Plastic was still used in the ujoints even in the 88-98 trucks.

[Kaysen]

Jeepwm69 nailed it. My exact thoughts!

[tucsonjwt]

I have not had to remove u joints, but I do know that a big C clamp will torque down quite a bit with persuasion from a good mallet. The trick will be to find one with a swivel end cap that will fit inside the yoke and still be big enough to take the mallet abuse. I have used this C clamp trick on jammed steel dowels and such and it always got things started well enough that a large punch or old socket would finish the job. You may have to sandwich an old socket or piece of steel rod in the C Clamp first. I have many sizes of Harbor Freight C Clamps and I have to say they are some of their better hand tools. Of course, PB Blaster helps a lot but usually is best if you can get a little movement going first.

[csdineley]

Well guys thanks for the advice and help. I tried the vise, c-clamp, and hammer and socket. Dam thing still didn't budge. So I ended up taking it to a nearby transmission shop and having them change it. Also I drilled that broken bolt out. And tomorrow I'll probably run out and get those ubolts that Jeepwm69 suggested. Now hopefully the drive shaft doesn't give me any problems going back in. This whole project has been a PITA. Guess it the trucks way of telling me it didn't like the 600 mile move I just made it do.

[hatzie]

You need to flatten the area where the U-bolt nuts come up against the yoke so that it's perpendicular to the shaft of the U-bolt.
Usually it's just a small amount of material. Cast Iron is pretty soft. You can mill it or grind it.

[csdineley]

Ok thanks guys. Trucks all back together and running good again.