Knee tourqe specs please!

[Isaiah92260]

Does anyone k ow if the water pump on a 67' Chevy 250 is supposed to be tourqe down? I installed a new one this passed weekend and it stated leaking! Took it off, added silicon and noticed that two bolts some how got lose out of the 4, I tightened them down and this mor I got I could see and smell a leak again! Maybe I'm missing something? Help :/

[blown240]

I think that the bolts may need some sealant on the threads because they go into the water passages. Not 100% sure though....

[chevy_mike]

They are 15 ft/lbs but 2 or three of them go into the water jacket area. You need thread sealant on the threads or you will get a leak.

EDIT: I found the manual showing torque settings. 15 ft/lbs is correct. Use a water pump gasket and use thread sealant on the bolts (you can do all of them).

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

I think they are 40 ft/lbs but 2 or three of them go into the water jacket area. You need thread sealant on the threads or you will get a leak.

Thank you for your response! The ones you said that go into the water jacket are the two on the bottom that are bolted down near the bottom of the cylinder head correct? I believe those are the two that have the longer threaded bolts? I'm gonna try to dis assemble today after work and try to tighten them down at 40 lbs like you mentioned. And I'm gonna go to the store and get sealant

[TJ's Chevy]

Just get some sealant and put them on Tight. lol And be sure to tighten them down evenly.

[Isaiah92260]

I'm afraid to strip the bolts, I found a web page that says that's says 15 inch lbs, but I'm not sure if I should trust this site? Isn't that 15 inch pounds too light?

[TJ's Chevy]

You won't strip those bolts. lol They are course thread and hard as a rock. Silicon the gasket...then put the pump on...And Don't tighten the bolts until the silicon is dry or it will all just squeeze out! Put the pump on with the bolts hand tightened....let the silicon dry for a few hours...Then tighten the bolts down with some thread sealant. Then you can tighten them down and I don't mean with an impact...I mean with a 3/8 ratchet wrench. Long as you get them good and snug and tightened down evenly it should be fine.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Just get some sealant and put them on Tight. lol And be sure to tighten them down evenly.

Do you think I need a O-Ring? My buddy said I should of got one, the old pump didn't have one

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Do you think I need a O-Ring? My buddy said I should of got one, the old pump didn't have one

They don't have an o-ring, they have a gasket and o-ring won't work unless you have a groove cut out in the pump for a ring.

[chevy_mike]

I updated my above post. I found the factory setting, it's 15 ft/lbs.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

I updated my above post. I found the factory setting, it's 15 ft/lbs.

Wow thank you so much!! I'm gonna go to AutoZone on my lunch break and try to knock it out tonight before it gets too dark! Thanks again! Btw what manual did you find that info in?? I need to by myself a Shop manual

[Isaiah92260]

Should get a new gasket and re seal everything again? Or just seal the bolts?

[Isaiah92260]

There is a website I found that says 15 INCH pounds...

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Wow thank you so much!! I'm gonna go to AutoZone on my lunch break and try to knock it out tonight before it gets too dark! Thanks again! Btw what manual did you find that info in?? I need to by myself a Shop manual

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Should get a new gasket and re seal everything again? Or just seal the bolts?

I found this PDF http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Olds/19.../06-Engine.pdf Go down to page 6A-34 and it has torque specs. Don't worry that the manual is for an Olds. They used Chevy inline 250, so the torque specs are the same.

As for the seal, depends if it's leaking out of the seal or just the bolts. One thing to keep in mind, you need to drain the coolant down below the level of the water pump and dry those bolt holes before trying to use sealant. You need to let it dry before putting coolant back in or it will end up still leaking.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

I found this PDF http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Olds/19.../06-Engine.pdf Go down to page 6A-34 and it has torque specs. Don't worry that the manual is for an Olds. They used Chevy inline 250, so the torque specs are the same.

As for the seal, depends if it's leaking out of the seal or just the bolts. One thing to keep in mind, you need to drain the coolant down below the level of the water pump and dry those bolt holes before trying to use sealant. You need to let it dry before putting coolant back in or it will end up still leaking.

Thank you! How do you suggest I get the boot holes dry? When I drained the radiator last time it still had coolant I the head

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Thank you! How do you suggest I get the boot holes dry? When I drained the radiator last time it still had coolant I the head

Air compressor and blow the holes out. Then take some brake cleaner and spray it, then blow it out with air to dry it. You should be good after that.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Air compressor and blow the holes out. Then take some brake cleaner and spray it, then blow it out with air to dry it. You should be good after that.

So I did everything that was suggested, bolt sealant and tourqed to 15, then even more, I still have a leak! :/ but it very small, pin hole like because it's small water drops here and there, but enough to know that it's leaking, I can smell hot coolant too.... I might just take it off and clean everything out, install a new gasket and add another good layer of silicon... I still can't figure why it's not sealing right. My buddy thinks it's that the motor is warped because it's been driving to the ground before me and has never really been rebuilt or maintained 100%. Pretty much neglected. So I'm hoping that this can be an easy fix. I wana get this all squared out since I finished the HBalancer too, I hoping to go pick up a 283 short block in LA so I need to be able to drive 240 miles to and from.

[Isaiah92260]

Although the leak problem is t seviour, the 67' 250 is running a hell of slot better! New HBalancer, new summit racing 140 amp alternator, now the water pump. All my pulley's nice and tight, the motor has a nice hum now and picks up quick! So once this water pump leak is fixed, I'm gonna do the valve train and then I should have to touch it till the 283 gets built.

[TJ's Chevy]

You let the silicon set and dry before you tighten it?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

You let the silicon set and dry before you tighten it?

For about an hour yes. Maybe I should try again but wait longer?

[TJ's Chevy]

Might try a red silicon...let it set for an hour then tighten it down....then wait over night. Water is like oil...it'll find its way out.

[cg285]

just an observation: there was life, without leaks, way before the silicone goop was invented. 2 clean, flat surfaces and a gasket is all that is needed. sometimes an adhesive, or grease, is used merely to hold something in position when you only have 2 hands

[cg285]

and what is "knee tourqe"? sounds french

[maxwoof]

I've always had good luck with a gasket and black permatex on the gasket and threads.