Battery Randomly Dying - Would This Help Troubleshoot It?

[LuvNLife]

Went out to start my truck and run some errands, and the battery made 1 revolution of the engine, then quit. Waited a few, and it just clicked. The battery is an Interstate, 850 CCA, and less than 1 year old, and this isn't the first time it's happened. I've had the battery checked with a load tester (passed) and it's putting out 14.4 when running. The in-dash gauge shows charging for about 3 minutes after I start it, then settles back to 13+. All of my hot and ground wiring and connectors are good, clean and secure. My battery charger is charging right now, but it'll fire up as soon as I connect it. The truck had been sitting for 4 days. The last time it happened, I stumbled across the face plate of the radio being installed as the possible culprit; with it removed, this hadn't happened for quite a while. Other than the radio, the only non-stock items are a cheap tach (installed after the initial problems) and a Summit fuel gauge (installed the same time the problem started) It seems something is creating a drain or feedback.

Trying to troubleshoot electrical issues is a nightmare for me. I was hit with 45Kv setting the timing on my Nova 40 years ago (hot summer day, sweating, no shirt, laying across fender) and have had a healthy respect (fear) of electrical ever since. To begin narrowing it down, I was looking at something like this:

http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette...uitry-100517-1

My thinking is, it's an inexpensive, quick and dirty anti-theft, and, if the battery still went down after a week or so of sitting, that would prove there's some accessory grounding, feeding back, etc., since the only power going to the vehicle is through the fused bypass wire.

I sure could use some thoughts and opinions on this one.

Jerry

[Ski-me]

I just had my Optima Yellow top die out (3+ years, but Advance replaced it under warranty). I also tried a battery charger on it prior to replacement, but it didn't really help very much.

Checked Optima's website and they recommended going into a local Interstate Battery shop to get it tested. After talking with the gal and charger, she said the older chargers can't charge this modern battery very well. I would need to purchase a newer, more modern one to handle the newer batteries. She also said that some of the auto part stores can't test the newer batteries very accurately and could give false info.

So, if nothing else, I would have your battery tested at a local Interstate shop if possible and see what they say.

[burkeftm]

what you need to do is a draw test,there is a good video on youtube of how to do this with a multimeter.Google parasitic draw test eric the car guy

[Dead Parrot]

Next time you are going to park the truck for a few days, make sure the battery is fully charged and just disconnect one of the battery cables. Then reconnect the next time you want to start the truck. If the battery is charged, suspect a parasite draw in the truck, if battery dead, battery bad.

Ski-me: I think the clerk was trying to sell you a new charger. Don't see how an old charger is bad for a new battery if an alternator with 40 year old tech is OK.

[Shugalou]

I would think that cut off trick would be good to put on and when you have time inspect all culprits but cut power easily when you need.

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Ski-me: I think the clerk was trying to sell you a new charger. Don't see how an old charger is bad for a new battery if an alternator with 40 year old tech is OK.

Yes, she could of been trying to sell me something, but Advance Auto said it was good, but the truck could barely sit overnight without having problems starting in the morning. Something was up!

I do know there are issues with the AGM type batteries and do require some "special" care compared to standard type batteries. There are tons of threads about "Love it/or Hate it" on the Optima batteries. This is the second battery I've replaced under warranty, so that's not good. However, the yellow top deep cycle was the only battery that my headlights didn't pulse with the beat of my bass speaker amplifier. It had enough oomph to handle 3 amplifier demand.

So, with that said, I think the spiral AGM batteries may need "special discharge, re-charge" maintenance to keep it alive longer. All 'per Optima's website'.......

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by burkeftm

what you need to do is a draw test,there is a good video on youtube of how to do this with a multimeter.Google parasitic draw test eric the car guy

Found the video. That was well explained enough, even I could follow along. It's one time the relative simplicity of our older trucks makes them easier to work on - there's only so many fuses in the panel. Plus, it made me think of some wiring I found behind the seat - large RCA cables and a power lead, which may have been from an amp before I got it. The head unit is being replaced next week, so that may reveal something under the dash.

I don't have a multimeter, so was cruising around looking for one locally. Checked Sears, and they seem to average $50-$60, but when I looked closely, there's a warning to the effect when it's set on A, it's 20 max for 30 seconds, and the max on mA is 400. Does that sound like what I'd need? I'd like to have one of my own, but the prices can get pretty scary...

Jerry

[burkeftm]

I used to use a cheap $10.00 meter that I picked up at radio shack. I used to see a lot at flea markets also. You could also do what dead parrot said and dis connect the battery,I would also inspect the alternator,I think a shorted rectifier or diode trio will cause a slow battery drain. Bob

[kalbert]

I'm not sure what the linked cutoff is supposed to do, it shows a bypass across the cutout. Seems to me that would defeat the purpose of a battery disconnect since nothing is being disconnected. It would no doubt be forgotten about enough that having a bulk package of fuses would be necessary.

[bilfman]

You should have 3 things to trouble shoot this issue. For the battery a load tester and a digital multi meter. A good battery will Always rebound under load. Here is how to do it, hook up load tester and multi meter to the battery( make sure battery is fully charged), read voltage before starting load test i.e. 13.54v, start load test , voltage will slowly drop and then hold steady i.e. 11.65v, it will stay this way for several seconds , but a good battery will then slowly start moving up the voltage, like 11.65 11.67 etc . Basically a good battery will bottom out at a voltage and then increase. A bad battery will bottom out and then keep going down in voltage. This whole procedure will usually take 25 to 40 seconds. So that is 2 tools, the 3rd is a test light.

To test for where your draw is ( key off of course)unhook your negative battery cable and connect one side of the test light to your unhooked cable and the other end to the negative battery post. If there is a draw the test light will be lit. Remove the radio fuse as these will deliver power to your radio ( if clock /memory equipped) if the test light remains on there is a draw. Now start removing fuses one at a time and check the test light every time. When the light goes out you have found the culprit circuit, some times you may have to remove all fuses first and put them back in one at a time if there are mutiple problems. If the test light lights there is current draw on that fused circuit. At least this way it dramatically reduces the search variables.

[LuvNLife]

Just a quick thread update...

I did buy that disconnect, and installed it on the negative side, but I didn't use the jumper wire that would feed the radio, etc. I drove the heck out of the truck (the wife was ready to send out a search party, I was gone so long), parked it and disconnected the battery. I did verify that with it running, it's a rock solid 14.3/14.4 at the battery, and my dash gauge never went under 13/14 when driving, even at idle. I let the truck sit for 5 days, reconnected the battery, pumped the gas, and it turned over the engine twice (no choke), then it was done - just a click. The two times I cranked it over, it was only for 3-4 seconds; I never just grind away at it. Hooked up the jump box, hit the key and it instantly fired. It behaved like there was just enough voltage to turn the starter, but not enough to fire the HEI.

The one thing I totally forgot to do was check the voltage on the battery before trying to start it. I did another long drive after getting it running again, and disconnected it, so I'll do that in a couple of days. In the meantime, I think it's safe to say I need a new battery. Next up will be checking to see if there is a parasitic drain...

[barry1982]

Do you have the quartz clock in your truck? I had a similar problem a few years ago... and turns out something screwed up in the clock, causing it to draw more current than should. I did the "simple" pull fuse trick to determine what was drawing power with the key off. Take off the positive batt cable. remove a fuse. Just barely touch the cable to the battery to see if you get a spark. Replace fuse, and try the next one.... when you pull the fuse that's drawing power, you will not get a spark. Narrows down your search a little. Of course this only works for detecting draw for the electrical through the fuse box.

[4 Wheelin Fudpucker]

The battery in Mrs Fs car is the OEM from 2005. My battery in the Harley is OEM 2008.
My Burb's battery is a deep cell from 2010.

The trick to keeping them up is to keep them charged.
The Harley sits on a tender everyday.
The var and truck get charged every 3 months over night @ 2 amps.

Keep the battery core charge at near 100% and they will last a very long time.

[rich weyand]

I hate dealing with battery issues, because they always leave you stranded when the weather sucks. I buy the biggest meanest Sears Die Hard Gold 7-year battery, and replace it as scheduled maintenance at five years, and have done that since 1976. I never get battery issues.

As to what changed? Make sure you connected all those accessories to IGN, not BAT. Simple mistake, but the parasite draws are really really hard on batteries. Just put the voltmeter (a $10 one from Radio Shack or equivalent is fine, see below) on the hot for your aftermarket tach, radio, and fuel gauge and measure the voltage to ground. It should be -0- with the key off, +13.2 or so with the key on. If they are hot all the time, that's what started your troubles. Now, though, the battery is toasted, because it won't hold a charge when disconnected.

This meter is fine for car work: https://jet.com/product/detail/ba50c...FQoKaQodaKkMBg

[chevy-fun]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRso1A0VScw

[LuvNLife]

I did pick up a multimeter at Sears while back. It'll do AC and DC, so once we're back in a house next year, it'll come in handy.

I just went out to see what would happen after sitting for several days again with the battery disconnected. Without trying to start it, the battery read 11.87. Amazingly, I put the key in, turned it to Run, listened to who knows what power up under the dash, bumped the key and she fired right up. Regardless, a battery is in my near future.

The only non-factory add-on's I have are a new head unit (no sub, no amp), a tach and an aftermarket fuel gauge, so those shouldn't be too hard to isolate. It's darned chilly here, but I was able to look under the dash real quick, and noticed one thing that actually made me laugh. The horn and lighter are on the same circuit. The horn works fine, but if I plug in my GPS to the lighter, the fuse blows. Somebody took what looks like a hot wire (red), and rather than putting it to ACC with a spade terminal, they stripped the wire back, pulled the fuse to the horn/lighter, stuck the wire in, and popped the fuse back in. I'm no rocket scientist, but that has to be one of the most stupid things I've seen in over 40 years. I can't wait to find out what it's feeding...

[beamn7]

I had a similar problem that I chased for years. Turns out the dang tach that I put in, I had connected to battery + as it says to. Well, that sucker would kill the battery after a few days. (course this issue only showed up after it was no longer my daily driver) Switched it to key + and issue went away. Something to look into...

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by beamn7

I had a similar problem that I chased for years. Turns out the dang tach that I put in, I had connected to battery + as it says to. Well, that sucker would kill the battery after a few days. (course this issue only showed up after it was no longer my daily driver) Switched it to key + and issue went away. Something to look into...

I wouldn't have thought of that; thanks for pointing out one more place to look...

[LuvNLife]

Quick update:

I finally got a new battery this past Thursday; 995 CCA,, etc. Before hooking it up, checked the voltage, and it was 12.57. Checked the old one before pulling it, and, after a long drive it was only reading 11.98. After getting the new one in, brought the truck home, and let it sit with the battery connected until this afternoon (3 days). Checked the voltage before driving it, and the meter showed 12.38. Needless to say, it fired up like a new truck, even without the choke hooked up.

Now that I know everything else is good, next step will be checking for a parasitic loss.

[69heavychevy]

Anytime I have battery issues the first thing I do is check charging voltage. Then I check for parasitic draws. 9/10 times its one of the two.
I had battery issues on my 80 and found that I had a draw from the tach and horn.
I had mistakenly hooked the tach up to a constant power lead, that was an easy fix.
I didn't even have a horn button, so the draw from that was a surprise. I probably have a short to ground somewhere because I unplugged it and it still had a draw. I just ended up removing the fuse...I'll eventually try to fix it because with so many stupid drivers out there, a horn is a necessity.