My Build - "Orange Bliss"

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Alright, I figured I better start my build thread so I can keep track of my progress. Right now, I don't see the end in sight. I intend on this thread being my "upper."

I inherited this when my dad passed. I probably should have started with a better base, but I didn't want to give up the memories I had of this pickup.

I drove it for a few years in college then parked it sat for 10 years. My build (technically tear down) journey began May of 2013, and after a year or so I was quickly overwhelmed with grad school, 2 kids, and full time employment. It sat for a while until I graduated.

In October 2015, the real effort began...



Actual start - May 2013

1969 C10 long bed
Factory color, orange
307 cubic inch, 3 spd

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Here is what I started with (remember, May 2013!). I think the body is pretty straight. Reasonable place to start.

Start the teardown!

I think my neighbors really appreciated me tearing down an old pickup in my driveway.

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Just a reasonable build, heavily factory with a few of my own twists. Not necessarily showroom, but not rolled tractor paint either.

Drivetrain -
Crate LS3
4L80 Transmission

Suspension/Brakes -
Front and rear anti-sway bars
Factory rear end and suspension linkage (but lowering 1-2")
Disc brakes
Power steering

Body -
Essentially factory except:
Removing the HVAC system (I want a clean firewall)
Eliminating the dashpad
Rear rollpan

Color -
1970 Oldsmobile Rally Red OR
Hugger Orange OR
Tangier Orange OR
The factory 1969 C10 orange
Chassis black frame

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I started to feel better about the build now. It seemed like most of the rust was rocker panels, cab corners, kick panels, etc. Nothing that an ill fitting patch panel (or ill installed) couldn't be covered up with some filler or carpet.


It was a gold mine under that seat! But, what could be lurking under this rubber floor mat?


Rot and rust.


I may have mentioned I'm an amateur body guy. I've never developed good welding skills nor do I have (at the time I was staring at this) the necessary tools to fix this well. The only thing greater than the dreadful feeling of "what did I get myself into" was my imagining the pride I'd feel when I transformed it. All the little fasteners, clips, knobs, etc are in labeled ziploc baggies. I am worried about remembering how to reassemble this thing.


Notice the rust perforation on the kick panel. All in all, I didn't think this was so bad - mind you this is the first I've personally seen or done. Most of the rot and significant rust was well within existing patch panels territory and the rest of the floor was in great shape. The undercoating (I hate that stuff) was in decent condition underneath, I think there is too much good floor to replace the entire floor. More to come on the hidden rot lurking behind....

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5/29/17, I was over at a friend's watching him paint his Mustang. It was motivation I needed to get back into the garage. It has been months since I've set foot out there.

I was working on the driver's side cab corner. After making sure the body lines on the door and cab match up perfectly, I mocked in the rocker panel. I then loose fit the cab corner and found out I cut it too short, maybe 3/8-1/2" too short. I burned it in anyway with a few small scraps I had laying around. My mask's batteries died so I had to quit for the night.

I'm happy with how it is fitting up. It will take some filler, but I'm didn't expect to get by without it. I was probably out for 3 hours, give or take.








I need to finish burning it in, then get the rocker installed.

[hotrodchevy1999]

a ls3 will be a hand full

[NewType72]

Looks like a great start! A lot of motivation can be lost in the body side of it but you gotta remember small tasks first and at one time or else the overwhelming burden sets in and you won't see the light at the end. Restoration is hard but proper mindset to continue is even more difficult to most.

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I sure appreciate the feedback, words of wisdom are always welcome here.

Business travel the last two days, not much progress. I had 1 hour available tonight, I wanted to at least get out and do something, if only very little. My wife was out with me helping hold pieces, pass the mig torch, run the light, etc. I think she wants her parking spot in the garage back.

I'm planning to finish burning this piece in tomorrow night, and let the grinding begin!


I've never done body work, I only know what I've read on this forum and watched on youtube. I don't have anything to grade it against, but I am very happy with the fit.

These pictures looked better on the camera. I'll try take better ones in the future.









I'm slowly learning an important lesson. Don't cut out sheet metal over a little surface rust - it is a whole lot more time consuming to patch sheet metal then it is to run a sander and wire wheel!

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I had about 2 hours this evening. I removed some of the rear outer floor and finished burning in the cab corner. My plan is to build from the outside in, from what can be seen to what is hidden by carpet, etc.

The few plug welds I got to do turned out very good, I don't think any grinding will be needed. The butt welds for seaming the patch in are another story. Grinding is very time consuming.

Lines up very good with the door. Sorry for it being rotated, it is rotated correctly in my photo editor/viewer.


My plan is to grind it down and apply some etch primer to protect it until I am done with all the patch work. Then, I'll do all the filler at once.




I'm very happy with how it turned out. I hope the rocker panel goes this smooth.

[GR8-68]

Great looking project you have there, don't give up and keep pushing on. It gets easier as you learn the ins and outs, body work takes lots of patience and strategic planning

[raggedjim]

The welding is the fun part, I hate bondo work!

Good luck, Rg

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I had a few hours to kill so I spent them in the garage. Except for filler/finishing work, I consider this cab corner "complete." To get this far I had to clean off a ton of undercoating/tar like substance, and replace the lower rear pillar piece. I am very happy with the results. I'd welcome feedback from anyone on the welds, did I grind them "enough". I ground through a few times so I feel I found the happy medium. I figure a little extra texture will help the plastic filler adhere. Ha! I left quite a bit more on the inside, which will be covered by carpet.

I am thrilled with how this turned out. Admittedly, I have little to compare to. Does this seem on par to those with more experience?

BEFORE

Here is what the old one looked like. It wasn't so terribly bad from the outside, but still had to go.


As it turns out, somebody repaired this in the past. Both the rocker panel and cab corners were pieces welded over the factory pieces. There wasn't much left of the original cab corner.



AFTER

I finished grinding down the welds and threw a quick coat of etching primer on.


I welded on some grade 8, 1/4-20 nuts so I could sandwich in the rear brace, outer floor, and pillar. From everyone's post on this site, it seems that is the factory solution.


I'm super happy with the door/cab corner alignment. While I was doing this I fit the rocker up at least 30 times, so I hope it lines up well too.

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At this point, on the driver side I have the following to finish up.

floor pan
outer floor
rear outer floor
rear cab brace
kick panel
rocker panel

After cutting every piece of rust in sight out, and losing my references (and making the job much more difficult), I have a new plan. I want to first build what I can see, so I've been trying to make repairs from the "outside in."

Following this, here is my planned order of operations.

1. Get the rocker panel on
2. Install the rear outer floor
3. Driver side floor pan and kick panel
4. Fully burn in the outer floor, etc.
4. Move to the passenger side.

I'm planning on doing the rear cab support last, after the cab is back together and not relying on all my bracing to hold its shape. I am going to try tip the cab forward some to make it easier. It will also make it easier to get some of the undercoating off.

Does the order of operations above seem appropriate? I appreciate any advice any of you may have. Thanks!!!

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I had a a couple more hours to spend on it tonight. Slight change of plans. I installed the rear outer floor piece. The main reason was so the rear pillar had more support. I plug welded from the underside - holy moly, it makes me want a cheap Harbor Freight spot welder...





I spot checked the rocker again, I think it will turn out "ok." Next I need to do the kick panel, etc. I forgot all that stuff ties together at the lower A-pillar.

Then, ON TO THE ROCKER PANEL!

[TXBoudy]

Originally Posted by MoreWorkToDo

Not necessarily showroom, but not rolled tractor paint either.

I had a '66 when I was a kid that had been brushed with oil rig yellow. Thanks for the memory. lol...

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by TXBoudy

I had a '66 when I was a kid that had been brushed with oil rig yellow. Thanks for the memory. lol...

sorry for taking a space on the thread but I'm dying from this comment

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I had about 90 minutes tonight. I was going to fit/prep the rocker, but while I sat there contemplating I noticed I haven't yet put in the kick panel. So, tonight I worked on getting the lower portion of the kick panel in place.

I think I am going to order another few sets of rockers to see if the stamping creases are a little crisper. I was able to cut low enough that the rocker should line up with factory lines and steel. Maybe I got the last piece off the tooling...

I'm excited about the progress. I dream of the day the driver side is done and I move to the passenger side!

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Ok, it's been a long time. Life has gotten really busy, and the pickup sat in the garage for several years untouched.

Several weeks back I got a hair to do something. I came to the conclusion that although I want to do it all myself, I haven't the time or skill to do good body work. I wanted to do the engine and trans, though. After weeks and weeks of studying options, a friend of mine recommended pulling an LS based engine from a work van. Several weeks later, I had a van sitting in front of my home...

My oldest boy helped picked it up and haul it home.



The neighbors really appreciated this vehicle in the neighborhood.

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The donor was a 2003 GMC 3500 Savana with a LQ4 Vortec 6000 and a 4L80E. The van had 180K miles on it. I was nervous using a donor with such mileage, but a friend of mine (who is a custom car and engine builder said the new LS based engines are bulletproof).

My son and I started pulling the engine on August 16, 2020. Two of my curious neighbors stopped by to help. We hooked up the straps and cherry picker the morning of August 17. By 2 pm, it was out.


The engines are really tucked in there. The right way to do this is to remove the intake and valley cover, then use a LS engine puller plate. I didn't do that, but I wish I would have. I used a sawzall to cut the exhaust and body above the intake manifold. Note, don't forget to remove the fuse block with the harness. I cut it...




It was such a mental battle, by the time it was out of the van I let it sit for a few days.

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Sitting on the stand. Decided to clean it up and do a cam swap and freshen it up a bit. I didn't have time to take interim pics, the engine cam apart so quickly.




Pulled and cleaned the heads. The valves and bores were in excellent condition, removing the heads was a waste of time, but it was fun.
-Summit Stage 2 truck cam
-Upgraded to GM blue LS springs
-New valve stem seals from FelPro
-New GM oil pump and pickup oil ring
-New timing chain
-Rocker arms from Michigan Motorsports with upgraded trunion
-Michigan Motorsports pushrods
-Oil cooler delete plate
-Head bolts from BTR
-New front and rear main seals
-Rustoleum high heat primer and Duplicolor Chevy Orange engine enamel
-A new, vented oil fill cap from GM



I used front and rear cover alignment tools from Mr. Gasket. The tools were priced right and made installing the cover much easier.

A few notes, some people have luck replacing the oil pump without dropping the pan. I wasn't able to get the pickup bolt out without pulling the pan. Lifting the pan gave me an opportunity to clean it out. Pan installation was a pain, it has to be even with the back of the block so the trans has a flat surface to bolt to. I used a straight edge and feeler gages to get it in-spec. It took an hour, but it's perfect.

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The trans was it working order when I pulled it, and the fluid was in used, but not burnt condition. I scrubbed it, primed it with Rustoleum high heat primer and shot a couple coats of Duplicolor black engine enamel.



Cleaned up the alignment dowels, bolted up the factory flex plate and torque converter, then mated them. One of the threads in the trans housing for the dust cover was damaged, an M10x1.5x2D helicoil made it good as new.


The oil pan, heads and covers cleaned up much better than they look. Though, I wish I would have shot them with a gray or silver to clean it up.

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September 16, 2020 the new motor mounts, etc arrived and I started installing the engine after work.

I used a kit from CPP, with new perches, slider mounts, poly motor mounts, trans mounts, new trans cross member and all the hardware. The kit also came with Doug Thorley headers made specifically for LS swaps.




The new engine perches and motor mounts just bolted it, I recommend their products. Plenty of room for the headers and steering column, plenty of room to remove the bellhousing bolts and clearance for coils. I will have to run a high mount A/C kit. Note, my pickup was originally a 3 spd manual and is a low hump cab.

I noticed the engine sits about a 1/4" towards the passenger side. This seems to line up with the rear end and relief in the cab. It seems normal, but I had it in my mind it should be centered. Also, the factory LQ4 truck pan fits, but it is snug. I couldn't move the engine any further forward without hitting the front cross member.

[May70]

Id probably redo all your brake components in the rear drums (assuming your only putting disc brakes in the front) and put new lines in all the way around!

Doesn't appear you've done your outer rocker yet, if it fits like mine you will literally have to split it all the way down the middle. oh the joys

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More pics showing clearance between engine and firewall.


Driver side cylinder head clearance to firewall.


Driver side cylinder head clearance to firewall.


Passenger side cylinder head clearance to firewall.

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The stock truck oil pan extends below the cross member by about 1 inch. This will be a street only vehicle, so I'm thinking I'll be ok.



Since the engine is biased towards the passenger side, the oil pan to cross member clearance is tighter there. This is forcing a rear engine position, which I like from a weight distribution.



The driver side has about 1.25" of clearance.



The lighting is bad, but the tightest area for the trans is to the fold in the firewall. There is 3/4-1" clearance in that area.



There is about 11" between the cover and where the radiator support mounts. Even with a factory harmonic balancer, this leaves room for radiator/water pump swaps, etc.




To my untrained eye, this placement seems like it will work, right?