Cab mount Redux

[mmiddle]

Ok, for those that know.... is it acceptable to shim the cab mounts?

I bought mine from Brothers trucks. the kit came with out spacers or instruction. I figured this is not rocket science so I installed the new mounts matching the appearance of the bushings with the location. After installing the mounts and core support bushings I went to test fit a fender.... The body is now sitting about 1 inch higher than the core support.

After some research here I found a post from several years ago detailing the correct thickness of each bushing and its location... see pic... OK. I go out to the shop and remove the D/S bushings and sure enough I had them wrong positions. Corrected this and now I only had a 3/4 inch mismatch. Better, but still way off.
So, I used some of the old washers 2 in fact for a total of 1/4 inch between the body and rear bushings. This brought the mismatch down to 1/8 inch so I placed 1/8 inch washers under the core support and bushing to correct the problem.

All of this to ask... Is it acceptable to shim as needed the body and core support bushings??? Attached is the pic I found for anyone who may need it. 1970 C/10 shorty

[Orange Crate]

I also had to shim my cab mounts to make my fenders fit. I ended up with about 3/16" extra on both front cab mounts and then I also installed one OLD core support bushing set on the left and one NEW core support bushing set on the right. All of this was to make sure that my gaps are as close to perfect as these trucks can realistically get. My attitude is that the gaps are more important than the "correct" stack up of the new bushing kits. I am satisfied with my gaps the way the bushing stack up is and the rest of the truck is going together on top of all of that. Oh, I did have to also add small 1/8" spacers at the front of the bed so that the body lines remain straight. I spent a LOT of time on the gaps and body lines, installing shims ,reassemble, reinstall fenders, take it back apart redo and reassemble. I consider gaps one of the most important final assembly tasks there is (don't forget door gaps too).

[mmiddle]

I'm working on the panel gaps now. The major rust repair is complete with the exception of replacing the roof panel. I figured I would get everything lined up and dial in the panel gaps then cut the roof off and replace with a nice one I bought the other day. Plus with all the mods I am doing its a great time to work on integrating the updated electrical and HVAC systems.

[57taskforce]

I've got about 5/16" worth of shims in my front cab mounts, I just used big thick washers. A couple washers or shims to get the gaps right isn't gonn hurt anything.

[Orange Crate]

I agree with "Taskforce" a few extra shims can mean a huge difference when you get to final assembly. I had assembled my truck before going to paint and then took notes where the shims went, then took the whole thing apart and took it to my painter. When it was time for final assembly (at my painters shop), things went very well. If you can get good gaps once, you should be able to repeat that. When these trucks were on the original assembly line they weren't always shimmed the best so you should be able to improve on the way they look & fit when you take on a repaint/restore.

[48richard]

When I bought my truck, the cab was about 1/2" too low on the driver's side, so the cab and the bed didn't line up properly and the door-to-fender gaps were much wider at the bottom than the top.
The cab mounts were collapsed so I replaced them with new ones, but even then they needed shimming to get everything aligned. I used some of the original washers as shims, and now everything looks as it should. It took a little time, but it's well worth it.

[mmiddle]

Thanks guys.
Right now I have finished all the major rust repair with the exception of replacing the entire roof cap. So, before I cut the A&B pillars I wanted to know everything fits correctly. I now have the gaps set. Now it is onto dialing in the gaps by welding and grinding and replacing the roof section. after that it is on to the sand blasters.

[In The Ten Ring]

This pic was a ton of help! I have it printed out in my garage, for when it's time to put the new radiator core support in.

I noticed that after replacing my cab-to-frame bushings that the bed and steps sit lower than the cab. *It's a stepside.*

Is that normal?

[Daryl87]

I know this is an old thread, but it has the information we are looking for today! My truck is a two-wheel drive, but the first body kit I ordered showed up for a 4-wheel drive (two of the bushings are taller) and we didn't realize that until we went to install it this morning.

Found a supposedly proper cab mount kit at one of the shops in town today but we weren't sure we had the bushings in the right spots. This info helps a ton!

[zicc1835]

thanks for getting this resurrected