Dana 60 U-bolt Spring Plates?

[special-K]

Upper U-bolt retainers? I don't know what to call them w/o looking at a book. These are the two plates, one for each side, that lay over the center pin nut on top of the spring that locate the over the top (square) U-bolts. The u-bolts hold them in place while they help keep the u-bolts in place.

Just one problem, and I've never experienced it before. On one side the plate just floats. It's loose enough to rattle, and the U-bolts are as tight as they can be. What could cause this? The U-bolt isn't bent tight enough? Bent a shade too narrow? I cant get the U-bolt drawn down any tighter and the plate will just rattle and shake making a clatter when I drive, I'm sure.

What would you do? Buy another U-bolt and see how it works? I came here after getting 3/4 of the way into posting a WTB for another pair, thinking just double them up. That is the only way I want to lift the plate up to the U-bolt. The other option would is getting the U-bolt down to the plate..and without getting into a blacksmithing job, I figure buy another U-bolt.

The overall job I'm trying to finish up is 4" rear lift on my '72 using Add-A-Leaf and 2" block. I started out buying the cheapest possible lift out there... NTW's Suspension Special w/ rear blocks with free shipping. I could have shelled out another $150 fr rear leafs, but with going cheap being the thing $150 less was the answer. If not, I would have bought all four spring kit from Tuff Country. If I'm buying rear springs I'd like to get ones made for a better ride. I figure the ones in the "too cheap to advertise brand" price were just old school springs like what came on the truck. The brand is Superlift, so no too shabby, I like their stuff. I wanted to retain full hauling abilities and the stock springs are still great. Add the Add-A-Leaf and she should haul just great. I'm old school and never minded the ride that pioneered the lifts we see offered today. This is a period truck, so actually fits it. I want to feel as close as possible to how I did doing the same thing in the same trucks as I did 35-40 years ago (good luck with that,, right?).

Anyway, I got to the rear and eyeing up those platform shoe


Disco always did suck!


4" blocks, I just couldn't do it. I swear they look more like 6" and I'm a carpenter who by now can eye up a measurement with the best. Even measured a time or two. "I used to do this?" I thought to myself. Funny how time can pass once you stopped doing something a certain way and looking back looks so different. It didn't help that I stumbled into an extra pair of tapered 2" blocks I have no idea where came from. I ordered the Add-A-Leafs from Tuff Country (will that make it ride softer?? ) and went together with it. I get the whole thing together and just don't like what I'm seeing on the right side. The loose plate I already told you about, and I can see daylight, just a paper thin sliver, between block and spring. I think the divot in the block was a bit wallowed out and less than favorable in general. I thought about deepening the divot or grinding a bit off the pin, but decided it was dumb to use these old blocks, probably were dunnage from someone else's loosened U-bolt/block catastrophe. I have new blocks coming, but still need to remedy the loose plate thing. I want everything drawn-up snug'n tight and copesthetic. I think I just talked this one through. I came here thinking double the plates up, but now think there must be a quality issue with the U-bolt and why get around it (though that would work fine) when for a fist full of ones I can have a U-bolt that fits the right side as well as the other does on the left side.

Hey, thanks for your help! (still open to thoughts/opinions)

[BLAZERMAN]

I can't imagine what it could be other than running out of thread before getting tight and I'm sure that's the first thing you would have checked. Where did you get your UBolt? I never use the ones that come with lift kits, nothing really wrong with them but I get mine made by a local truck spring shop. They use blanks with rolled threads rather than the cut threads you get with the cheaper Ubolts in lift kits. I also always use the extra tall nuts and heavy machine washers that they carry rather than the nylocl nuts that come with kits. You might check that drivers side spring perch for flatness just to be sure, I've also seen this same perch get bent sideways on a 60 because they are so tall.
Maybe snap a few close up pics for us, this will be interesting to find out what's going on.

[1tuff71]

I'm on for this one. never had that problem myself. Pics please

[jeffahart]

Seems like you've run out of threads. But you can do a quick sanity check and stick a piece of 1/2" stock between the axle and U bolt and snug it up and see if it still rattles.

[special-K]

Yeah, it's funny. There is plenty of thread to go. The U-bolt is snug hard against the edges of the springs but not the middle. I think the bolt is just not bent right, like 1/16" too narrow. So it could still be bumped down over the spring and axle.

It's two separate things. I'll have to get that block out to see what's up with that. It's like the divot isn't deep enough, but how could it wear shallower? The daylight I see is even all the way across the pad

These are the bolts they sent with the kit. They didn't provide any nuts. I did use the tall nuts and thick washers from my hardware stash. I'll take a picture

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by special-K

Yeah, it's funny. There is plenty of thread to go. The U-bolt is snug hard against the edges of the springs but not the middle. I think the bolt is just not bent right, like 1/16" too narrow. So it could still be bumped down over the spring and axle.

It's two separate things. I'll have to get that block out to see what's up with that. It's like the divot isn't deep enough, but how could it wear shallower? The daylight I see is even all the way across the pad

These are the bolts they sent with the kit. They didn't provide any nuts. I did use the tall nuts and thick washers from my hardware stash. I'll take a picture

I bet it's plate binding on U bolt before fully clamped due to catiwhampus bolt angle
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[special-K]

The plate is loose. No contact with U-bolts at all. The inner corners are contacting the spring at the edges while not down tight across the top. I'm sure they would hold it all together. Everything "sandwiches" together as tight as can ever be. The issue is it's not all "fitting" or "seating" right. I'm sure in time there would be an issue from it due to torque. Basically, the axle could rock the slightest bit on the center pin with no contact across the surface of the block.

What bolt angle do you mean, U-bolt or center pin? All is straight and aligned fine. I'm headed out for a picture now...

The gap is bigger now because I backed it off so I could look in there. I'm replacing the blocks and I think that will solve this issue. The other side went together fine. The plate also moves on that side

I included a picture of the original (maybe) U-bolt. I see the problem. Look how these were made. The ones I got with the kit are just straight-up bent and that's it. I may just modify these to fit better, but will see what other new ones look like first. The last picture is for any block bashers. It shows what has been in my truck since who knows when. They make a 1 1/2" lift combined and I'm doing 2" blocks with a taper. I never noticed the added block. I thought it was all one thing. Actually, I never noticed the OEM 1/2" block and thought the 1" was OEM. Just never had a reason to look at that area hard since I've owned it.

[BLAZERMAN]

I don't know what I was thinking, guess I didn't read your post good enough the first time and I thought you were talking about the front axle. On those rear u bolt spacers they always seem to be worn thin and yours looks to narrow anyway. I've made my own before from 2.5x.250 strap iron or GM parts dept. should still carry the later version that is much heavier duty, I've used these along with there blocks before but it's been about 10 years since I've ordered any.

[special-K]

Here is a video for your viewing pleasure. I tried to show the daylight seen between spring and block. Sorry, no music sound track, strictly documentary.

[BLAZERMAN]

You can see where your old u bolts were manufactured to have square inside corners as opposed to your new u bolts that were just bent over a square mandrel.

[b454rat]

The u-bolt bend isn't right. Needs to be more squared off, not rounded.

[BLAZERMAN]

I don't think your going to get a u bolt that size to bend any tighter without going thru a machining process. The newer u bolts may not fit as tight around the spring but they look much beefier compared to the old. I would just make a thicker wider saddle to fit the bolts and leave them along. You may even want to radius the top edge of a full width 1/4" plate or go slightly less than full width if not.

[b454rat]

Any good spring shop can make the correct u -bolts.

[special-K]

I thought about grinding the u-bolts out. I know that will weaken them, but the OEMs are way under 9/16" in that whole area. They look like they were stretched and pounded flat (blacksmith style). If the plates were thicker it would be fine. That's why my first thought was double them up. But, I'll see about the cast plate from GM. I think any u-bolt I buy will be just like the ones I have. Only a spring shop could do better and probably not needed, if I just get the thicker plates.
The blocks will be here any day now

[jeffahart]

I bought some U bolts from Michigan Truck Spring recently. I know you want to go on the cheap. I called them and they sent. Easier on the phone.

[special-K]

They only show one square u-bolt and it's the next size shorter that may not give quite enough. It also looks no different than the ones I have.

One thing I will say about this California truck, I removed all shocks, spring eye bolts, and u-bolts with no problems what so ever. Just spray it all with PB, and thread them off. It was the easiest I've done in quite a long while.

[obijuan]

Flip it over and get normal round ubolts. Fixed. Ruff stuff specialties sells new HD spring plates.

[jeffahart]

Barnes 4wd also, and Barnes does my favorite thing... "Overkill"! They have lot's of nice axle accessories,brackets, perches and such.. good site to have in your back pocket. What ever you do don't use any old Rancho's you have laying around. They hardly took 100 ft lbs and bent my new bolts too.

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by obijuan

Flip it over and get normal round ubolts. Fixed. Ruff stuff specialties sells new HD spring plates.

Agreed! Pretty bullet proof and fit really well. Top plate is as thick as the springs that I have.

[b454rat]

DIY4X has them too, and is heavy duty. I have their shackle flip and SAS kit, and had their B52 kit and gauntlet bumpers. Everything is at least 1/4"...

[special-K]

Yeah, I thought I had mentioned that. I usually do change the square to round. Not this time, though. I think I've already spent what the rear leaf springs would have cost when the plan was keep it cheap (still would have this issue, though). Yeah, I'm pretty broke lately, but mostly because this is just for now, to run off the tread on the BFGs I have before they decide to crack up on me. I have bigger plans for the truck later on... although still tempted to tear into it now that summer is over and I missed driving it already. I am heavying up the whole drivetrain... 4.10 (maybe 4.46) HO52 No-Spin/Dana60 Tru-Trac, TH400/NP205, & rebuild original 350 to 383. I may take the 4" lift out and go down 2" later. I want to eventually run between 285/75 & 255/85-16s, but maybe stay 35s a while, who knows. I'm keeping the truck forever.

[obijuan]

You gonna have the truck for ever or just fix things on it forever? Wait a little bit and get the good stuff that keep it from rattling apart.

[special-K]

More like, I'm allowing for changes that will occur as the years pass. Everything I'm doing here is quality and will last. I don't know any other way.

[special-K]

Been thinking since my last post and have looked more at the truck. Rather than edit my post, I'm posting here that I am going with round u-bolts. Obijuan's words made me question the square bolts, which I never really liked, and all the reasons have come forth. It's not just the threads hanging down to get buggered up. I like the way the round fits the axle snug all in one piece up through the plate and the bolts are fore and aft of the axle, not side to side. If the bolts are loose at all the square bolt can shift fore and aft, which allows the axle to shift. I just like that set-up better and since I need to buy something, I might as well do this. As far as possible future changes, the round bolts are what the HO52 uses anyway, and I'll just keep all the original Dana 60 stuff all together.

[jeffahart]

I put the squares back on mine. I think they are fine. It's what came with the 14bolt off the CUCV = good enough for mil spec .... good enough for me, and for this truck.

Of course, if anyone wearing a bow tie tattoo wants to argue against the square bolts then you arguing against GM design.... a bit of a paradox... no?