Advice on dash welding?

[Tod59]

Hey Guys, a question about fixing/welding the aftermarket radio hole the previous owner cut into the dash on my 1959 1/2 ton.

Which method would you guys prefer to use as seen in picture #1 or picture #2? I can weld (just ok) and grind and use a wire welder at home. My fear is if I use method #2 and something goes wrong, in the welding process there is no more metal to cut and remove and fix.....except to buy a replacement dash and I don't want to do that $$.

I thought method #1 is better and take as little metal out as needed. If I screwed up, just make the hole in the dash a little bigger and order another $40.00 replacement panel.

I thought about replacing the metal exactly where the previous owner cut it out, but welding and grinding around the circular radio knob holes would be tricky at best.

So, any advice for those that have done this before? All comment and advice welcomed. I do want to do this myself and I'll use a wire welder with gas shielding.

Thanks
Tod

[dwcsr]

Use the entire panel, its less likely to warp welding close to the bends at the top and down the side where the ash tray and heater panel bends are and go all the way under then cut off the excess. Go slow and let it cool, don't lay big fat beads, fat beads shrink more, I would grind the weld as soon as you put down the gun. That way if it puckers you can dolly it before you move on. I might even go so far as to tack it into place and then weld every 2 inches grinding as I go and let it sit over night to relax it, dolly it when its cold and start over spotting

[THEE OG]

I would tack either in place. Make sure your all lined up etc. then just tack your way around. Moving around in a pattern just laying food tacks so it doesn't pull around on you. Grind and golden.
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[58CameoAZ]

Originally Posted by Tod59

Hey Guys, a question about fixing/welding the aftermarket radio hole the previous owner cut into the dash on my 1959 1/2 ton.

Which method would you guys prefer to use as seen in picture #1 or picture #2? I can weld (just ok) and grind and use a wire welder at home. My fear is if I use method #2 and something goes wrong, in the welding process there is no more metal to cut and remove and fix.....except to buy a replacement dash and I don't want to do that $$.

I thought method #1 is better and take as little metal out as needed. If I screwed up, just make the hole in the dash a little bigger and order another $40.00 replacement panel.

I thought about replacing the metal exactly where the previous owner cut it out, but welding and grinding around the circular radio knob holes would be tricky at best.

So, any advice for those that have done this before? All comment and advice welcomed. I do want to do this myself and I'll use a wire welder with gas shielding.

Thanks
Tod

Tod, I had about the same looking cutout that you have on my 59 and i ended up using the whole replacement panel (#2 Method) My reasoning came down to, To me their was just the outside edges area to work around instead of in between the top and bottom's of the round knobs.and like suggested maybe a little less warping. all in all, it still is a tedious job and i would take replacing the whole dash (which i did on my 58) over replacing just the panel piece any day.
Allen

[Stepside Jim]

I have no idea which is the better way to go, I figure I'll show that the short way does work.


I ended up with black so it had to look good when done.


Block sanding sucked but sometimes it takes what it takes to get the job done.

[roger55]

I'd definitely do it closer to #1.
I might even make the cut-out on the dash a little smaller. I'd cut it very close to the knob humps. I'd bring that bottom line right up the edge of the present hole.

The smaller you go, the less shrinkage issues you have thus less work to finish it off.

[Speedbumpauto]

I'll vote for #1 and did a modified version of it myself. Why cut out perfectly good metal? I also filled in the heat and ash tray because I don't smoke and wanted to use the Vintage controls to complement the radio shape. I'm not the most patient welder and made all my own patch panels and welded them individually. There are enough curves and structure in the dash that you don't have to worry TOO much about warp....as proved by me.

[mr48chev]

Everyone does it a bit different but no matter how you do it follow what Thee OG (great post for a new guy) suggested and do it with very short welds and let the welding cool before welding another very short weld in another spot.

The quickest way to ruin a sheet metal project is to get in a hurry and run long welds getting the metal too hot and warping it.

I like the concept of doing it as you showed in the second photo as finishing the metal between the holes for the radio and other pieces would be a big added chore.

[THEE OG]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Everyone does it a bit different but no matter how you do it follow what Thee OG (great post for a new guy) suggested and do it with very short welds and let the welding cool before welding another very short weld in another spot.

The quickest way to ruin a sheet metal project is to get in a hurry and run long welds getting the metal too hot and warping it.

I like the concept of doing it as you showed in the second photo as finishing the metal between the holes for the radio and other pieces would be a big added chore.

Thank you for that. I am a welder by trade. I will give info where I can. Might not know everything about these trucks. Or much of anything. But will always help anyone anywhere I can.
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[Northern lights]

The son of a friend of mine is taking a college course on building hotrods which includes body, suspension engine etc. He was taught (recently) that, when welding in body patches with a mig to turn the heat up and the wire down and just sort of spot weld. Apparently it gives a similar result as tig welding and prevents warping. The theory being that the wire mostly just makes the contact and the two panels fuse from the heat which adds VERY little extra weld to grind off. I'm not a welder and have never done this but will try some practice pieces to try it out. Might be worth a try on some practice pieces.

[Tod59]

Thank you to all that responded; a lot of great advice here!!

[_Ogre]

my choice is method #3: cut out the old radio dimples and replace with flat metal, run single din radio
single din radios will be around for a while and have many options
if you go back with the oem holes your stuck with marginal custom auto sound radios

[Tod59]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

my choice is method #3: cut out the old radio dimples and replace with flat metal, run single din radio
single din radios will be around for a while and have many options
if you go back with the oem holes your stuck with marginal custom auto sound radios

hmmmm.....good idea. I hadn't considered that.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

my choice is method #3: cut out the old radio dimples and replace with flat metal, run single din radio
single din radios will be around for a while and have many options
if you go back with the oem holes your stuck with marginal custom auto sound radios

They are a couple of other options for the original hole and other than a stock radio. One is the Retrosound Apache (which I have and is very good) and the other is Antique Automobile Radio which are very expensive and only so-so in quality but look just like an original radio.

[58CameoAZ]

Naa..... I think he should put an 8-Track in there

[dsraven]

personally, I would go down further to get around the bend as much as possible because you will notice any imperfections less as you go further below the main light reflection area. (not saying anything about your work, please don't take it that way, just saying take the seam out of view if possible). keep us posted with pics.

[dsraven]

another option, if you are not a sound guy, is to fab up that you can put stuff in. like phones etc. since you already have the piece I am assuming that option is for other guys who may be looking for an idea.

[58CameoAZ]

Originally Posted by dsraven

personally, I would go down further to get around the bend as much as possible because you will notice any imperfections less as you go further below the main light reflection area. (not saying anything about your work, please don't take it that way, just saying take the seam out of view if possible). keep us posted with pics.

That is a good point, i did do that on my 59 and you have pretty much two
vertical welds along with the horizontal.
Allen

[Speedbumpauto]

X2 on that Retrosound Apache. I have one and a small 300 watt amp under the seat and it's way better than mediocre, at a fair price. I like the rings on the dash and used the extra ones for a manual over ride fan switch and the other for electronic cutouts which is the real sound one of these trucks should make.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

... I like the rings on the dash and used the extra ones for a manual over ride fan switch and the other for electronic cutouts which is the real sound one of these trucks should make.

If no photos it doesn't exist!

Seriously, got any pix?

[Speedbumpauto]

The pic of my dash above shows them. I'm lucky enough to have a lathe so I copied the stock knobs out of aluminum and polished them. Used a std. push pull switch on the left of the climate control for the fan switch and used a double pole, double throw momentary switch spring loaded to neutral, to the right, for the cut outs open and close. It looks natural in the off position and you have to push it up and down to open and close the cut outs. Modified the toggle handle and put the knob on with JB weld. I did eliminate the center switch ring for the climate control install but saved it in case there is ever a need.

[1-ton of fun]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

my choice is method #3: cut out the old radio dimples and replace with flat metal, run single din radio
single din radios will be around for a while and have many options
if you go back with the oem holes your stuck with marginal custom auto sound radios

Have you seen the new forgot all media head units? Some are the same size as a 3 3/8" speedo. No cd hole. Digital media and radio only. Din will still be around but there are smaller, good options.
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[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by 58CameoAZ

Naa..... I think he should put an 8-Track in there

with less people smoking... the availability of matchbooks to jam under the 8 track is limited

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

If no photos it doesn't exist!

OK, I was guilty of that too.

I left the area around my radio stock. It had not been altered. The left fresh air vent is controlled where the wiper control was and the right fresh air vent is controlled where the throttle was. The center hole is still a cig lighter. Not a smoker but of course there are some other uses for it if needed. I moved the wiper control to where the choke was.

I did have an issue with the stock location of the ignition switch. With the column shifter there it was very awkward to reach the switch. So, I welded up the ash tray hole using the skin from the tray cover and moved the ignition switch there.

The only other mod I did to the dash was a small hole for the Check Engine light.

Btw, Retrosound updated their Apache radio this year and mine is before that. They've removed the buttons and added bluetooth.
You can see in my photo where I mounted the small unit where the USB and SD slot is for the Apache radio. I find that handy and the new Apache model doesn't have this. It uses a dongle instead and I don't like that as well.

[ChuckDriver]

I repaired mine using method #1.

I would also suggest you move your lower cut line up to the match the current line, saving more of the original metal.

Good luck and be sure to post pic's of your progress!