Towing with a 5" drop question?

[C10forDad]

I am in the beginning stages of a build and was wondering if anyone here has used this system.

https://www.performanceonline.com/60...de-assist-kit/

[SCOTI]

What is your 'plan' to achieve the 5" drop?

[C10forDad]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What is your 'plan' to achieve the 5" drop?

I have a pair of ECE 5" drop springs. I also flipped the stock trailing arm brackets that attach to the cross member.

This will be a daily driver and I don't want to do a full air ride suspension.

[7dee2]

Didn't use that kit exactly but something similar with leaf springs and helper bags. Here's some pics of our setup at the time. The only problem we had is it eventually broke both frame rails in the c-notch area after years of use. If we were to do it again that's the area I'd focus on.

[SCOTI]

The kit looks like it would work as a helper w/your coil set-up.

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The kit looks like it would work as a helper w/your coil set-up.

x2

[7dee2]

Coil or leaf, I would still be concerned with the c-notch area that will be the weak link in your dropped towing plans. The helper bags worked really well for us and was great to compensate for the tongue weight. This is what we went to when we couldn't use the 68 GMC any more. The 99 C3500 did work better also with helper bags but again rear leaf suspension.

[SCOTI]

I agree w/the c-notch concerns. I wouId do a HD CPP notch or Porterbuilts multi-piece set-up.

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

The only problem we had is it eventually broke both frame rails in the c-notch area after years of use. If we were to do it again that's the area I'd focus on.

I also think the c-notch is the most important focus when your talking about towing with a 60-72 C10. It doesn't help that the frame curves right where the notch is installed. I had a 89 C1500 that I put a Bell Tech notch in. Because the area where notch was installed was straight the bolt in notch section can be a lot longer distributing the stress over a larger area. I felt pretty comfortable towing with that and air bag helper springs. The 60-72 C10 is a completely different animal. I would only use a notch that is specifically for towing for starters. I think Porterbuilt, CPP & Western Chassis make them. Even then I'd be cautious.

I was originally planning on doing that same air bag set-up. I've changed directions and am now going with replace the coils with air bags. One thought I had, and I don't know if it would be a positive or a negative, was that the original suspension supports the load from the frame in front of the wheels only. That kit will add it's support form the rear of the frame past the notch. I don't know how that would change the stress on the frame. The reason I changed my direction is because I'm moving the gas tank to the rear and I'd like to have the exhaust to exit behind the tires. Just a little too much going on in the area.

[SCOTI]

Keep in mind that leaf spring arrangements add more stress to a c-notched frame vs Truck-arm/coil set-ups because of the extreme rear pick-up point for the leafs on the frame rail. Coil set-ups keep the stress in front of the rear notch. Towing forces @ the rear of the frame would be the same for both.

[C10forDad]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I agree w/the c-notch concerns. I wouId do a HD CPP notch or Porterbuilts multi-piece set-up.

I did go with the HD CPP c-notch kit and plan to bolt and weld them in place.

[68c10airstream]

I have 4" dropped springs in the rear of my 68 c10 and pull a 2500lb airstream with absolutely no sag in the rear because i use leveling bars and the added feature of sway control. No "C" notch though, so not a fair comparison. Trailer sits level and the truck sit as if it wasn't loaded down. It actually rides and tows better pulling the airstream using the leveling bars than putting 1,000lbs of pavers in the box and driving home from the lumber store. My setup is the style that has a step block on the end of the bars and causes the trailer to lean into the turns.
Towed the airstream at 80 mph and been in pretty good cross winds and it works great. Call me crazy but i know what it can do and what to expect out of it.

[wraprail]

No issues

[Ghostwhite]

If your purpose is for towing assistance then you definitely need to get more specs on that specific kit. Sleeve bags of that sort CAN carry very low ratings for load capacity and it would be better to have some data before buying a random kit.

I am not saying that sleeve style bags are not good for loads as almost every air-ride 18 wheeler on the road would disprove that statement. I'm saying you should consult the manufacturer of the kit or the manufacturer of THOSE bags to figure out if they are rated for what they say they are intended.

Like everyone else mentioned an airbag can increase your safe load capacity by a very nice margin as long as you factor in building a nice strong C notch if you go that low.

[99RegalGS]

I have that kit on my 71'. It took me about 3 hours to install. I haven't had it on the truck very long, but it has prevented bottoming out the rear suspension the couple times I've used it..

[slotard]

I agree with everyone else regarding potential problems with a notch. I don't think I'd want to use a truck with a notch and stock bed floor very hard. If you do, inspect it very often early on (look for cracks), that might mean you find a problem before it causes a crash. I'm not questioning anyone's fab skill, just the significant decrease in strength thanks to a notch.

[HAULIN' IT]

I'm a bit late posting since I see you already have the notch done. I didn't use that kit, however some of the concerns (& solutions) could be the same from my '86 & your older truck.

As I was building our truck, I looked at the "normal" way some things were typically being done & came up with what I feel is a better way to end up sitting "right" without compromising the frame, usability, ride, ect.

I don't tow with my truck, however I do often haul 400-600 lbs. which would for sure create some problems with the suspension clearance once the leaves were softened up a bit for a better launch.

I started out by doing a 0"-2" (front to back) body drop. This way, the truck looks the same at the wheelwells, but has 2" more clearance between the axle & frame than a truck with a traditional flip & notch. This also did some other things like hide the frame, fuel cell, battery, ect. compared to a typical drop.

I added airbags on some altered/home-made mounts for times when I have some weight in the bed...keeping the same 2" between the axle & snubber.