Air ride conundrum...

[monte0185]

I really wanna put my new dually on air since Im starting over but the more I look at it and the hassle its gonna take and all the parts and cost the more I think just static drop it and be done. I love the thought of the softer ride and I dont wanna drop it to the ground but it seems to me the only options out there that will lower it some are home made or cost way more than i wanna spend. Front seems simple enough and not pricey but the rear is where i run into the fact everyone cuts there bed or frame and I dont want to do that. So if anyone has any suggestions im all ears. I guess in the air ride community its all or nothing.

Now that my rant is over. What size lines should I be running if I go air? Whats the difference between them and what do I need for tanks and valves and compressors and controllers? Sorry Newbie here to the air world. Kinda getting overwhelmed.

[monte0185]

Pics of truck for reference.

[tinydb84]

Have you looked at Scotti's dually build thread? He did a real nice one that isn't completely slammed. Take a look: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=640843

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Have you looked at Scotti's dually build thread? He did a real nice one that isn't completely slammed. Take a look: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=640843

Yes Ive watched his and 75dually's since they started. Love them but both cut the bed and notched the frame which are two of the things im trying to avoid. I need my bed space plus I have a GN hitch already installed.

[cochino12]

If you dont want to notch to frame of cut the bed just flip the axle, add some shackles and a cheap air over leaf system

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by cochino12

If you dont want to notch to frame of cut the bed just flip the axle, add some shackles and a cheap air over leaf system

Considered that or at least doing like my old truck had which was spring perches and leaves removed with helper bags but then I would be loosing out on the better ride from the bagged setup. Guess thats what i dont understand why do you have to cut the hell out of everything just so it dont ride like a train.. I use the hell out of my bed and dont want to cut it up.

[JWall]

Are you against a mild c-notch in the frame?

I know your talking dually & mine isn't but I wanted to bag mine without cutting the bed floor & a bolt in notch was actually more notch than needed to bag it to go as low as I could with a factory bed floor.

[JWall]

Also, recently I helped Low1Ton use RideTech Universal HD 4 link kit on his 88-98 dually without cutting the bed floor & it is working out nicely for him.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/universal-hd-4-link.html

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by JWall

Are you against a mild c-notch in the frame?

I know your talking dually & mine isn't but I wanted to bag mine without cutting the bed floor & a bolt in notch was actually more notch than needed to bag it to go as low as I could with a factory bed floor.

Nope not against a c-notch at all as long as it don't interfere with my GN hitch which is just a little forward of the axle so it should be ok for that. My thought was to run a 2-bar setup with the bags behind the axle on the bars. Simple and I can keep axle underneath the bars to maybe avoid notching?? Got the idea from 75dually.

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by JWall

Also, recently I helped Low1Ton use RideTech Universal HD 4 link kit on his 88-98 dually without cutting the bed floor & it is working out nicely for him.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/universal-hd-4-link.html

Thats what I like to hear!! How hard was it? Was it the weld up type or bolt on? Details and pics please.

[JWall]

It's a weld on kit & took some additional fabrication since it is "universal"

Here are some pics of Low1Ton's truck after it was installed...

(Keep in mind this is an 88-98 style truck)

[bustedknuckles]

Can't get too low without cutting the bed. With just a flip, overloads removed, and c-notch my dually rear hits the bottom of the bed on big bumps.

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by bustedknuckles

Can't get too low without cutting the bed. With just a flip, overloads removed, and c-notch my dually rear hits the bottom of the bed on big bumps.

Yeah I heard that will happen if you flip the axle with a D70. One of the reasons I was trying to avoid flipping it. If I could get the top of the tires to tuck just a little like yours or close like my other dually id be happy.

[slotard]

Originally Posted by monte0185

Considered that or at least doing like my old truck had which was spring perches and leaves removed with helper bags but then I would be loosing out on the better ride from the bagged setup. Guess thats what i dont understand why do you have to cut the hell out of everything just so it dont ride like a train.. I use the hell out of my bed and dont want to cut it up.

I'd consider pulling a bunch of the leaves and adding helper bags, it should ride much better empty and then you can air up when it's loaded. If you do that, you might also want a traction bar (pulling leaves means you get more axle wrap).

[slotard]

Originally Posted by monte0185

Yeah I heard that will happen if you flip the axle with a D70. One of the reasons I was trying to avoid flipping it. If I could get the top of the tires to tuck just a little like yours or close like my other dually id be happy.

did any of these come with a D70? I thought they were all 14FF (not that it's small either).

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by slotard

I'd consider pulling a bunch of the leaves and adding helper bags, it should ride much better empty and then you can air up when it's loaded. If you do that, you might also want a traction bar (pulling leaves means you get more axle wrap).

That is exactly what I did on my last one and it did ride a lot better. I liked it but I wanna try air ride.

Originally Posted by slotard

did any of these come with a D70? I thought they were all 14FF (not that it's small either).

You could get D70's in the 80's if memory serves. This 91 has one.

[andrewmp6]

Have you looked at http://www.ridetech.com/store/trucks...hash=V328.V263

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Have you looked at http://www.ridetech.com/store/trucks...hash=V328.V263

Yes the front part I can get cheaper but that rear 4-link is sweet. Just wish it was already setup for a c30 and not universal. I really like their air management as well. Ridetech sure is proud of their stuff though.

So on to bigger questions. What size lines should I be running and should I be running separate solenoids or one big management setup? Then what brands should I be looking at? I need all the details I can get cause there are so many options..

[bustedknuckles]

That all depends on your budget and what you want. I'd like to give this thing a try along with an engine driven compressor. Cuts down on all the bs.. http://www.littlelarrys.net/

[andrewmp6]

Line size and what valving system depends on your budget and do you want basic up and down or a toy to play with.If you want a simpler install i would use a manifold style system over 8 single valves.Most manifolds on the market are by big name companies i trust but they cost a little more then 8 single valves.Line size depends on the valves and how fast you want it to lift and lower.Then you got systems that can auto lift and auto ride height.Some systems use line pressure and some use a sensor system.Or the old school way single valves and air gauges and your the controler.If your kinda new to air ride talk to https://www.azproperformance.com/home.php hes a vendor on here and knows his stuff.He can get you anything you need and with in a budget but keep in mind air ride you can spend 3k plus real easy.

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Line size and what valving system depends on your budget and do you want basic up and down or a toy to play with.If you want a simpler install i would use a manifold style system over 8 single valves.Most manifolds on the market are by big name companies i trust but they cost a little more then 8 single valves.Line size depends on the valves and how fast you want it to lift and lower.Then you got systems that can auto lift and auto ride height.Some systems use line pressure and some use a sensor system.Or the old school way single valves and air gauges and your the controler.If your kinda new to air ride talk to https://www.azproperformance.com/home.php hes a vendor on here and knows his stuff.He can get you anything you need and with in a budget but keep in mind air ride you can spend 3k plus real easy.

Oh Im definatley new unless you count helper bags LOL. I dont really care how fast it goes up and down but it seems like 3/8ths or 1/2 inch are the common. The bags I like are 1/2 inch inlets. not sure if that means the holes or the fittings. Im assuming holes and whatever hit you get will have the size line fittings needed. I like the looks of the manifold as well. Think thats the way ill be going. Eventually I want the ridetech or accuair height sensor type system but im on a limited budget at the moment So depending on what the rear is gonna cost me to setup is gonna determine the rest of the system and what ill end up adding at a later date.

[JWall]

I highly recommend using a valve block assembly over individual valves.
Wiring & plumbing is so much easier & cleaner. I am running the airlift valve block on my truck now & am very pleased.

I like 3/8" over 1/2 stuff. 1/2 stuff is great going up but so fast on the dump side its harder to adjust small amounts. You can slow down your dump valves to help with this issue though.

I dont have any personal experience with the ride height sensors or the digital set ups with preset ride heights.


This is the AirLift valve block assembly I am running.

Obviously this was before all plumbing was completed.

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by JWall

I highly recommend using a valve block assembly over individual valves.
Wiring & plumbing is so much easier & cleaner. I am running the airlift valve block on my truck now & am very pleased.

I like 3/8" over 1/2 stuff. 1/2 stuff is great going up but so fast on the dump side its harder to adjust small amounts. You can slow down your dump valves to help with this issue though.

I dont have any personal experience with the ride height sensors or the digital set ups with preset ride heights.


This is the AirLift valve block assembly I am running.

Obviously this was before all plumbing was completed.

Attachment 1472952

Why does yours only have 4 solenoids VS most Ive seen have 8? Also is it necessary for 2 compressors and a big tank or will one and a smaller tank work? Just curious cause i see all configurations. I was thinking of running a bigger tanks or 2 if i can find room so I can run air tools as well if needed. For changing a tire on the race car or something small like that. Figured it would come in handy since it is a tow rig.

[JWall]

Originally Posted by monte0185

Why does yours only have 4 solenoids VS most Ive seen have 8? Also is it necessary for 2 compressors and a big tank or will one and a smaller tank work? Just curious cause i see all configurations. I was thinking of running a bigger tanks or 2 if i can find room so I can run air tools as well if needed. For changing a tire on the race car or something small like that. Figured it would come in handy since it is a tow rig.

Because my set up is for front & rear control vs 4 independent corner controls which would require 8 valves.

I am running 1 5-gallon tank & 1 compressor it works fine for my set up but more air & more compressor is always better especially with a heavier truck.

The idea of using air for other stuff is a good one too.... I have a push to connect air coupler behind my back bumper that I use to blow of my wheels at car shows, etc.

[monte0185]

Originally Posted by JWall

Because my set up is for front & rear control vs 4 independent corner controls which would require 8 valves.

I am running 1 5-gallon tank & 1 compressor it works fine for my set up but more air & more compressor is always better especially with a heavier truck.

The idea of using air for other stuff is a good one too.... I have a push to connect air coupler behind my back bumper that I use to blow of my wheels at car shows, etc.

Gotcha!! All i really need is front and rear as well. Im just doing this for ride quality and towing so I dont need anything fancy to start with. Mine is definatley not a show truck.. LOL