Wire question

[ShinyC10]

So a wire caught fire today and I'm not sure where it leads. It has two wires to a inline fuse and finishes with a two hole strap eyelet that hooks over two bolts. Any ideas what is for? They were red so I'm guessing they are hits and my Dakota digital gauges don't turn on. Need help, gotta get home by tomorrow lol

[gmachinz]

Are u referring to the firewall junction block?

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

Are u referring to the firewall junction block?

It's under the hood though

[gmachinz]

Yes it is-above the distributor and towards the drivers side a little?

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

Yes it is-above the distributor and towards the drivers side a little?

Bingo! Any specific reason for the strap eyelet or would I be fine twisting them together and putting it under one of the bolts?

[gmachinz]

Its more of a convenience when building harnesses. I stock the dual eyelet terminals for my harness builds. Originally its got one crimp location which originated from the high speed output from the blower relay. You should replace the fusible links @ the junction as well. I use fusible link wire soldered in series.

But, do you know why a wire burned up?

Oh, and yes you can put all the leads under one stud-that won't hurt anything.

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

Its more of a convenience when building harnesses. I stock the dual eyelet terminals for my harness builds. Originally its got one crimp location which originated from the high speed output from the blower relay. You should replace the fusible links @ the junction as well. I use fusible link wire soldered in series.

But, do you know why a wire burned up?

Oh, and yes you can put all the leads under one stud-that won't hurt anything.

Well the initial problem was cleaning the carb and replacing spark plugs so I was messing around with the plug wires so I'm thinking I put some pressure on them and they were touching another wire and cause it to burn up.

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

Its more of a convenience when building harnesses. I stock the dual eyelet terminals for my harness builds. Originally its got one crimp location which originated from the high speed output from the blower relay. You should replace the fusible links @ the junction as well. I use fusible link wire soldered in series.

But, do you know why a wire burned up?

Oh, and yes you can put all the leads under one stud-that won't hurt anything.

I think I found the problem😆 This thing came out of the power slot for the fuze box. Gonna pop in a new one and see if that does the trick

[ShinyC10]

Replaced the fuze and it didn't change anything. The hot wire I replaced has voltage going through. But on the inside of the cab, I'm not seeing any voltage on my test light

[gmachinz]

The only thing I can think of is a burnt fusible link somewhere.

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

The only thing I can think of is a burnt fusible link somewhere.

All the fuses came out fine. The ones that were bad I replaced. The control box for the gauges is showing voltage but the display isn't working. Could this have cause the gauges to fry?? (Knock On wood)

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by ShinyC10

Replaced the fuze and it didn't change anything. The hot wire I replaced has voltage going through. But on the inside of the cab, I'm not seeing any voltage on my test light

We'd all appreciate it if you'd say what year your truck is and maybe post a picture of the burned junction. I found a truck year in one of your other posts. I looked because I was feeling nice.

In the original configuration... Two 12AWG Circuit 2 RED wires splice to one 16AWG fusible link that connects to the 1986 J-Block using a Delphi 8911698 double hole ring terminal.

One of the circuit 2 wires off that fusible link to the J-Block is the 12AWG RED charge wire to the alternator. It runs on the RH side of the intake next to the valve cover. I'd say to check this wire but you have a melted fuse in the cab.

The other 12AWG RED circuit 2 wire from the J-Block is the main ignition switch power feed wire. Inside the cab it runs from a somewhat center position in the firewall bulkhead plug to a splice that feeds three 12AWG RED wires;

1. A 12AWG wire to the PWR ACCY and STOP HAZ fuses in the fuse block.
2. Two separate 12AWG wires from the splice to BAT2 & BAT3 on the ignition switch plug.

Did you put a fusible link in the replacement wire? If you didn't why not?

I assume that melted yellow lump in the picture used to be the 20A ATC POWER ACCY fuse. You have/had something on that circuit that's drawing way way too much juice. If you don't have fusible links in the 12AWG RED circuit 2 wire between the firewall bulkhead plug and the J-Block and one more in the alternator charge wire you will melt your harness into a useless lump. GM used one fusible link. I use two for ease of repair.

The J-block is fed from a 14AWG fusible link spliced to a 10AWG red wire at the starter. You should check this fusible link if the J-Block doesn't have any juice.


--------------------------

This is probably not involved...

There's one more circuit 2 wire that can be found on an outside edge of the bulkhead plug that comes from a 16AWG fusible link at the starter. This one immediately becomes two wires on the interior of the bulkhead plug. If your headlights and/or horn work it's OK.
Inside the cab;...

1. One runs directly to the headlamp switch from the bulkhead plug.
2. The second wire feeds the TAIL CTSY, HORN-DIM, and two BAT positions at the base of the fuse panel.

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

We'd all appreciate it if you'd say what year your truck is and maybe post a picture of the burned junction. I found a truck year in one of your other posts. I looked because I was feeling nice.

In the original configuration... Two 12AWG Circuit 2 RED wires splice to one 16AWG fusible link that connects to the 1986 J-Block using a Delphi 8911698 double hole ring terminal.

One of the circuit 2 wires off that fusible link to the J-Block is the 12AWG RED charge wire to the alternator. It runs on the RH side of the intake next to the valve cover. I'd say to check this wire but you have a melted fuse in the cab.

The other 12AWG RED circuit 2 wire from the J-Block is the main ignition switch power feed wire. Inside the cab it runs from a somewhat center position in the firewall bulkhead plug to a splice that feeds three 12AWG RED wires;

1. A 12AWG wire to the PWR ACCY and STOP HAZ fuses in the fuse block.
2. Two separate 12AWG wires from the splice to BAT2 & BAT3 on the ignition switch plug.

Did you put a fusible link in the replacement wire? If you didn't why not?

I assume that melted yellow lump in the picture used to be the 20A ATC POWER ACCY fuse. You have/had something on that circuit that's drawing way way too much juice. If you don't have fusible links in the 12AWG RED circuit 2 wire between the firewall bulkhead plug and the J-Block and one more in the alternator charge wire you will melt your harness into a useless lump. GM used one fusible link. I use two for ease of repair.

The J-block is fed from a 14AWG fusible link spliced to a 10AWG red wire at the starter. You should check this fusible link if the J-Block doesn't have any juice.


--------------------------

This is probably not involved...

There's one more circuit 2 wire that can be found on an outside edge of the bulkhead plug that comes from a 16AWG fusible link at the starter. This one immediately becomes two wires on the interior of the bulkhead plug. If your headlights and/or horn work it's OK.
Inside the cab;...

1. One runs directly to the headlamp switch from the bulkhead plug.
2. The second wire feeds the TAIL CTSY, HORN-DIM, and two BAT positions at the base of the fuse panel.

They are VHX Dakota digital gauges for my 1986 Chevy pickup.
Would that wire I mentioned that burned up cause that fuse to boil like that?

I have gotten power to the control box for my gauges but they will not display. And of course the tech support is off till monday

[hatzie]

NO The fusible link is before the fuse panel. The fuse will go if the short is after the fuse. If it's between the fuse and the J-Block then the fusible link goes.

Where are you tapping power for the VHX gauges?

Did you move the power tap after this little mishap?

[ShinyC10]

Yes I have a fuse able link between the fuse box and the control box. Power is coming from the an accessory I believe (supposed to be constant)

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by ShinyC10

Yes I have a fuse able link between the fuse box and the control box. Power is coming from the an accessory I believe (supposed to be constant)

In addition to my previous reply, no I didn't switch the power source. Still currently in an acc. Going to move it to a constant power source but not sure where

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

NO The fusible link is before the fuse panel. The fuse will go if the short is after the fuse. If it's between the fuse and the J-Block then the fusible link goes.

Where are you tapping power for the VHX gauges?

Did you move the power tap after this little mishap?

I put another fusible link with those two red wires but it gets real hot when the trucks on.

[hatzie]

You're pulling a lot of juice. Unplug everything extra you've added and turn the ignition on. If it still gets hot you're going to have to chase the short. What fun...

Is it the charge wire or the Ignition Switch wire or both?

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

You're pulling a lot of juice. Unplug everything extra you've added and turn the ignition on. If it still gets hot you're going to have to chase the short. What fun...

Is it the charge wire or the Ignition Switch wire or both?

I have gauges unplugged and my door locks unplugged and the fusible link itself is getting hot after the truck is on. So tomorrow I'll probably chase down that short. Like you said, "what fun"

[hatzie]

http://realfixesrealfast.com/finding...ive-short.html

Finding an Active Short

[hatzie]

The Fox N Hound type tools are useful for pinpointing which bundle a wire is in... if you can find an inexpensive one that actually works.
The Extech 40180 is a pretty decent inexpensive unit. It's not a Fluke but it's not priced like one either.

You need the vehicle battery disconnected to safely use it.

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

http://realfixesrealfast.com/finding...ive-short.html
Finding an Active Short

Thanks for the video, I'll be playing that while I'm under the hood

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by ShinyC10

Thanks for the video, I'll be playing that while I'm under the hood

Figured it might help. No idea what your level of expertise is.

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Figured it might help. No idea what your level of expertise is.

I guess we will find out how good I am tomorrow. gonna bring my old man out there to help. Two brains are better than one

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Figured it might help. No idea what your level of expertise is.

So got into the wiring today and narrowed it down; with the alternator disconnected that fusible link doesn't get hot BUT when it's plugged in it instantly heats up. Is it possible the alternator is putting out too much juice?