Lower a 49 rolling OG chassis?

[Tulsarust]

Hello guys. I've been reading this forum for about 2 months and have the bug for a lowered AD truck. This is my first foray into an endeavor like this but I have engineering and science background coupled with my grandfather's gift of using whatever is laying around to find a solution. I have decent metal fab skills and real good at overthinking a simple solution!
My studies of the many builds make it clear to me that I could easily get over my head on a full-on S10 swap. So, I've been searching for someone else's project that has stalled after getting a IFS front end and v8 installed. My current leads have me looking at a nice 49 body in one deal around $2000 and then a nice looking 49 rolling chassis that has had the body removed and been sitting for 2 years for about $1000. In my mind, I was thinking about doing a body swap, but the found chassis is WAY too high. Note: owner sent me this pic before he removed body. Owner doesn't have any real knowledge of chassis build other than he thinks it is a 350/350 combo and I don't think that is an original rearend.
So here is my question, from the pics do you have any ideas how to lower the front and rear of this chassis? I know I could locate some 2" drop spindles for the front, but the rear looks like it was some sort of 4 link in its first life. Those springs look huge and I don't think a couple of 3" blocks are gonna make a dent in the high flying stance. I don't want bags as I'm trying to keep it simple here and looking for static ride. BTW my favorite rides on here are Skymangs, JoeDoh, and 99toLife if you need a reference for what I'm after in looks. Thanks! Here are my pics. (in random order it looks like )

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Well first off welcome to the forums and glad you've upgraded from "lurker" to participator

I believe that rear end to be a ten bolt out of a mid 70's Monte Carlo my 57 had one slammed under it that looked just like it with a 7.25 ring gear so in the way of strength it was less than ideal for anything larger than an IL6 or mild V8

The rear leaf springs on most any GM vehicle can be modified by simply removing some leafs to lower it a bit

Edit: the trans looks a little long to be a 350 to me could be the angle maybe have him send a few of the engine from a few sides aswell as the casting and the trans pan to better identify it

[Hampshire]

Those leaf spring shackles could be pitched, for a start. Hard to see what the FE is - looks like a GM clip? If so, many things can be done to lower that (others with direct knowledge please chime in).

The GM clips are often wider track, around 59" or so - as opposed to the 57" stock track that is often retained with many IFS systems. Many (including me) like the wider track as it centers the wheels in the fender and avoids the sucked in look of the stock track. Whatever you do, pay attention to clearance issues as you get lower in front.

Seeing whose build you like, looks like you have good stuff to start with.

[ADchevys]

The rear looks like it has stock springs. You could use this kit on the rear http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-19...ies,47159.html along with lowering blocks and drop spindles and springs on the front.

[Tulsarust]

thank you for the replies.

Valarius_Starchaser: here is a stamping of the engine if that gives you any more info to decipher what I'm getting into, but I don't have a stamping on the tranny pic. I'll ask for that before I drive 3.5 hours to look at this chassis.

Hampshire, He thought it was a GM clip and that pic with the body does appear as if wheels are on the outer edge of the fenders. I might have to think about backspacing to prevent a rub; nice catch. Seller sent me this pic, but I can't read the tape measure. He is getting me more info tomorrow. I like a wider stance and that's why I thought the rear looked anorexic. Where's the Beef? is what that old lady on the Wendy's commercials would say. That's what I think about those hidden rear wheels inset in the fenders.

ADchevys, I'll follow that link. thanks

[Tulsarust]

From info on http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php it looks like all I know is this is a 350 engine and I need a casting number to gain more info. Count me in for learning something today! It also appears that it is a Saginaw block since the pic shows a "Casting Clock" to the right of the stamp. Nastyz28 states
"On some Saginaw blocks, intakes and exhausts a "clock" was cast into the block. The clock is a circle of 10 dots, one dot for each hour of a shift (usually 10 hour shifts). An arrow points to the beginning of the shift an another dot outside the circle indicates what time of day the cast part was made. Anyways, that's what that circle thing is (if you happen to see it on something)."

Guess its time for bed now.

[joedoh]

looks like a 70s camaro front subframe. which fits with the motor. the rear looks like a g body based on width and the "banana" mounts on the top of the axle. looks like a stock leaf pack, take 2-3 of the smaller leafs out of the pack and get an overload (the big flat one on the bottom) from an s10 leaf pack and the back will probably drop 3-4". spindles and springs in the front, new shocks all around, and you will be an earthworm

[OrrieG]

010 block was pretty common 350 and used for many apps, mine came out of a 74 truck with 4 bolt mains. Post the numbers on the pad in front of the passenger valve cover, last three should be letters that you can use Nastyz28 site to find the original donor HP, etc.

[Valarius_Starchaser]

I agree with the 70s camaro subframe looks all to familiar to my 74

[Tulsarust]

As Matthew McConaughey would say, "Alright, alright, alright!" Looks like I need to secure my finds and I'm ready to dig in. Thanks guys for your insight, I'll post up if I can get both vehicles for the project.

[Tulsarust]

Here is dimensions of this roller. Think it will work?
114inches roughly for the front center hub to rear center hub.
A rear axle with of 52inches(back of drum brakes).
Then a measurement of 58 in the rear(center of tires width)
And 54inches in the front(back of disc guards).
around 60.5 in the front(center of tires width)

Am I "on track"?

[Valarius_Starchaser]

This GM heritage website should help you out with what dimensions should be on the chassis

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...olet-Truck.pdf

[Tulsarust]

Thanks Starchaser. I have seen people post the wheelbase and some widths, but that link has a great CAD-type drawing with dimensions. Great resource. Gracias

[mr48chev]

The high altitude in front problem is directly attributed to the simple fact that they welded the subframe in so that the truck would sit at stock height rather than setting it so it was a few inches higher as apposed to the truck frame to lower the truck.

I don't know if you will ever get it as low as you want it but dropped spindles will bring it down a couple of inches and lowering springs will bring it down some more if needed. You could also drop a size or two on the front tires as those are pretty tall. On the back reworked springs, lowering blocks or a new set of springs that are built to lower the truck X inches would help.

[Tulsarust]

Thanks mr48, good idea on just changing tire size to a lower profile. That summit kit for the rear linked above looked nice but priced fat way too. The online reviews were very supportive of the kit even with the cost.

[mr48chev]

A set of lowering blocks and the removal of a couple of leaves in the springs will drop the back down as long as you don't get the springsor spring bolts below the scrub line.

If you are up to swapping springs take a look under Dodge Caravan vans from the early 90's at the wrecking yard you frequent the next time you go. They unbolt from the van front and rear brackets and all and although it would take some work and swapping the spring pads you should be able to drop the truck down where you want it and maintain a decent ride. They come in two lengths depending on long or short wheel base mini van. Posies also sells custom lowering springs but you are looking at a list price of 370.95 for the 440 spring with stock spring bolt location that should be a direct bolt in and be the simple way to drop the rear about 3 inches with a couple of hours work. If I did that I'd buy new spring mount bolts and shackle bushings and replace those as they are usually worn unless you know they were replaced recently.

[tmoble]

That's a 70-81 front subframe, good with disc brakes, power steering and good handling. You can get almost anything for it from Speedway Motors, call it a 77 Camaro.

They did weld the truck frame onto the subframe very high as mentioned. you can cut a coil off the front springs to lower it some.

[Tulsarust]

Thanks guys. In the meantime I stumbled on a 49 truck sitting in the back of a guys shop at work. Subframed on an early model s10. Office manager said owner wouldn't sell it, but 1 week later it's in my driveway. Needs help with frames swap bracket fabrication, weak power brake, hood alignment, wheel rub, no interior at all, some tranny adjustment, new shifter, and steeering column. But I'm gonna get this one the road first. Get my feet wet here and then move on to the second that is more complicated. I also swung the 51 GMC trailer too.

[joedoh]

super nice find, you'll get it whooped in no time

I went and looked at that roller wednesday for tulsarust, here were my comments

has a b&m ratchet shifter, trans is a TH350, has full length headers. tires are already pretty low profile, 205/70, anything smaller would look pretty silly. wheels are 1990 era worth about 50 bucks. the clip is installed very well, square and braced. front crossmember is only about 6 inches off the ground, and the running boards about 7, so no matter how you lower it that front crossmember will be the lowest part. to get really low it will need the clip z'd. all the steering is there ready to hook up to a column, has power steering and disc brakes, all the booster and master and lines are there. exhaust is there, driveshaft. its definitely a g body rear. motor turns free. you'd definitely have a runner in a couple days or so with a good body and some determination. didnt see gas tank mounts, so still uses the in cab tank. bed has no fenders, and is someones custom build, the only part 47-55 is the stake pockets on the outside, looks like brake bent flat sheet and has a round tube welded at the top. has a late model step side bed floor welded in it. neat piece, well done.

[Tulsarust]

gotta say, as a converted lurker to participant on here, Joedoh really blew me away offering to scout out that roller for me in KS. Saved me a 3 hour plus drive from OK and helped me decide which way to go on my first build. Thanks everyone!

[joedoh]

no worries man, me and beeps had a good time, the guys family raises clydesdale horses and she was excited to pet them. plus it was snowing lightly, it was a glorious day to be outside

[Chaddude]

Hey guys. Kinda a funny story. I have a 49 Chevy truck I was planning on going the s10 route with. Looking on Craigslist and found this chassis. And went and bought it today . I thought I would look on this site for more info on the motor and rear end what not and BAM
There is the add of the chassis I just bought!! with most of the questions I had answered for me.. I really appericate the info provided by all of you. More questions were answered on this site than the owner could provide .. Hope fully this fast tracks my build of my 49 Chevy. And I will be on the road much quicker. !! Thanks again. I will try to post updates on the build

[Chaddude]

Here is the body I am putting on the frame

[joedoh]

nice score man, welcome to the fray!

your truck looks like a longbed, did you get the short bed with the deal on the chassis?

start a project thread in the projects section and dont be afraid to ask questions, we dont bite.


much.

[Tulsarust]

That's awesome! Can't wait to see how it pays off.for you. Kinda jealous now, I've been thinking about that chassis and getting a 2nd one going! Please post a build.link when you get going. Congrats!