12-16-2015, 01:33 PM | #1 |
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Temp Sender Problems
Ok guys I have read and read and can not find or get a definate answer on this. I am sure by now someone has figured this out. Installed a 350 in place of a straight 6, the OE temp sender is a 1/2" and it appears i need a 3/4" temp sender for the intake or head. I can not for the life of me find a 3/4" that will let me use my factory gauge.
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12-16-2015, 01:49 PM | #2 |
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
You may have to go get some adaptors from like Home Depo to make it work. Or... Get a mechanical gage, auto meters are nice
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12-16-2015, 02:01 PM | #3 |
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
Brass bushing. Way easier than the other way, I paid like $50 for a tap so I could cut the threads in an iron intake to take the big fitting!
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12-16-2015, 02:53 PM | #4 |
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
If I do a 3/4" to 1/2" bushing will the temp sender sit deep enough into the head?
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12-16-2015, 03:22 PM | #5 | |
The Older Generation
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
Quote:
Have you actually tried the sender in the head? The head should be 1/2". I have seen intakes 3/4" but not heads....... Sounds like you have a full gauge panel but just as a heads up the senders for the idiot light gauge panels are different than the full gauge panels. LockDoc
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12-16-2015, 03:42 PM | #6 |
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
The heads are aluminium aftermarket heads and are definately 3/8" threads. And yes I have full gauges.
Sorry for the confusion on the above posts saying 3/4". |
12-16-2015, 05:20 PM | #7 |
Knuckle Buster, Instructor
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pantego, NC
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
I had the same issue with the Vortec heads. I bought a new brass sender for the truck and carried it to the local machine shop and had them turn it down in the lathe and then rehread it to fit the heads. There is no other sender that will give the correct resistance for the factory gauge.
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12-16-2015, 05:37 PM | #8 |
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
I used a 1/2 npt to 3/8 npt bushing when I did mine.
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12-21-2015, 09:51 AM | #9 |
Knuckle Buster, Instructor
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
How well does the temp gauge work with the adapter in place? I didn't go this route since the sender was not in the flow of water.
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12-21-2015, 10:51 AM | #10 | |
The Older Generation
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
Quote:
Ah, that makes more sense. I think the gauge would at least be off some if you used a reducer bushing. I'm not sure about that because I have never tried it. I tried the intake and mine didn't read even close in the intake because of the thermostat opening and closing. I have had a couple turned down for the GM crate engines I used. Make sure you have the sender for gauges and be sure they don't turn it down or thread it too far back or it will break off when you try and tighten it down. I drilled and tapped the head on my LS1 and that worked out good. There was a member on here turning them down but I don't know if he is still around or not.... LockDoc
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12-21-2015, 12:11 PM | #11 |
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
I used the adapter and mine works fine. I think it's all bathed in water whether it's "in the flow or not" so hot water will find every surface it's exposed to.
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12-21-2015, 01:02 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
Quote:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=627880 Last edited by FirstOwner69; 12-21-2015 at 01:10 PM. |
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12-21-2015, 03:00 PM | #13 |
Moderator
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Location: Modesto, CA
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
I had this same problem. My crate engine sensor opening would not accommodate the correct 67-72 sensor. I asked the same question HERE.
I was going to get an adapter, but a member chimed in who was able to machine a new OEM style to the correct size. There was also discussion about possible incorrect readings if using a brass adapter, stating that the sending unit needed to be positioned in a specific location relative to the heads, as well as the brass acting as a heatsink. Since brass is an alloy compound, its conductivity varies significantly to iron. However, I am not too convinced about the conductivity issue, as temperature sending units are made of brass. Moreover, I was told at one point that adapters were often used on high performance applications without any issues. My thinking is this: adapters are inexpensive. Give it a try. If the reading looks odd, or incorrect, look into getting the sensor machined to the correct size to fit your heads. Richard
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12-21-2015, 03:13 PM | #14 |
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Location: Tuttle, Oklahoma
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
Thanks guys, I took two steps backwards this weekend while hooking up a volt meter from a 86 chevy. Appears I burn't up my circuit board. I posted over in electrical trying to get some ideas on what went wrong.
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12-21-2015, 03:19 PM | #15 |
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Re: Temp Sender Problems
I have a spare PCB if you get desperate (I'm in WA so not nearby). They're easy enough to find but if you get stuck and can't find one, let me know!
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