I know... Another rust repair question!!

[Alberta65]

Hey everyone!! Long time reader of the site but I've finally began tearing into my truck in depth so I'm going to have plenty of questions...

I am new to the metal work game when it comes to rust repair but have some decent skills with a mig so I am going to do everything myself. My question that I am wondering is the process I should take in order to have everything lapping properly and in the correct spots. I pulled the carpets and the idiot that I bought the truck from had siliconed tin over all his problems, so just my luck I have tons of problems. I have two rotten back cab mounts, some holes at the rockers and the floor pans. Its hard to explain so here are the best pictures I could get:

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So the first few are the drivers side, then the passenger side. Any advice or game plan help would be more than greatly appreciated!! thanks in advance guys and gals!!

and just for the sake of it heres my girl:

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[LT1 Burb]

The front is standard fodder but the rear might be a bit tougher, too bad you didn't post earlier, I had that rear section that was rust free but I ended up scrapping it.

[franken]

Your troubles are the same as everyone else's. The parts are steel, and they weren't painted inside by the mfgr. Rust free is a myth. Rust starts from the inside of parts like rockers and you have no idea how bad it is from the outside til it comes through the paint.
Might want to look up a lapped repair...
Different people have different opinions but to me, a factory lapped joint is fine, but lapping a repair where metal was a single part is not to good and invites more trouble.

The bottom rust in the pics is standard rockers/floor/cab corner repair.
Look at the roof.

[Alberta65]

I understand the issue behind the rust, I guess my question is the correct order of panels to replace? To i take off outer rockers first then the floor or do i have to have the rocker on the put the cab support back in? I am just concerned about pulling it apart in the wrong order or taking too much off and causing more issues?

[Alberta65]

Originally Posted by LT1 Burb

The front is standard fodder but the rear might be a bit tougher, too bad you didn't post earlier, I had that rear section that was rust free but I ended up scrapping it.

OH NO! well I guess I should have been quicker to the site instead of just creeping in the shadows looking at everyones build threads.

[Captainfab]

To answer your question. Remove the outer rocker, and lower A and B pillars if needed. Then the inner rocker and outer floor area. Next the cab corner, mounts and inner floor if needed. Reverse the order in replacement. Be sure to brace the cab to help keep it's shape and leave room to bolt the door back on to check your door opening shape, check fitment and gaps.

[DakotaKid]

measure measure measure. brace the door opening and measure its dimensions front to back and top to bottom. CaptainFab had the advice for the order. i had to cut mine back apart after i had fixed it because the door didnt fit anymore. my own fault for getting in a rush.

[BR3W CITY]

I have a bunch of pics in my build of doing the floor and corner area there on my '66. We actually went back later and tubbed the firewall area later in the build, and there are some other looks at that floor/corner/crease area.

Depending how far back you need to go, just keep an eye on the cab mount location. If its sagged at all, you want to support the cab so its at the correct height, so when you install the new mount and start to do the floor, everything comes out level. Its pretty straightforward, just something to keep any eye on.

[doobiebro]

I saw this in the great internet and found this to be very informative and I like pictures!.. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/1512-19...98819#photo-01

[Alberta65]

Originally Posted by doobiebro

I saw this in the great internet and found this to be very informative and I like pictures!.. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/1512-19...98819#photo-01

this is a huge help!!! Thank you very much. I will do a write up on my progress once I actually dive in but I am just getting all my ducks lined up right now

[Alberta65]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

To answer your question. Remove the outer rocker, and lower A and B pillars if needed. Then the inner rocker and outer floor area. Next the cab corner, mounts and inner floor if needed. Reverse the order in replacement. Be sure to brace the cab to help keep it's shape and leave room to bolt the door back on to check your door opening shape, check fitment and gaps.

Thats exactly what i needed thanks!

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

I have a bunch of pics in my build of doing the floor and corner area there on my '66. We actually went back later and tubbed the firewall area later in the build, and there are some other looks at that floor/corner/crease area.

Depending how far back you need to go, just keep an eye on the cab mount location. If its sagged at all, you want to support the cab so its at the correct height, so when you install the new mount and start to do the floor, everything comes out level. Its pretty straightforward, just something to keep any eye on.

do you have a link to your build?? thanks

[Alberta65]

oh wow I just realized your build is right in your sig.

[dracko]

. I am by no means an expert, but just did similar rust repair on my passenger side and now starting the drivers side. similar rust.

I drilled out the floor/brace spot welds, then removed outer rocker, bottom of pillar, inner kick plate area and then the floor slightly less than my patch will cover. Leaving the rusty front brace as a locater for where the floor should fit. Cut new floor panel to fit then clamp the new floor/inner rocker panel at the rear where the old one was bolted (you'll see the holes) and clamp the front to the rotten floor brace you didn't cut out yet. That lines up the new panel. Once you have it spotted in you can cut out the old floor brace and replace it.

I also welded cross bracing in the cab and drilled holes through my door hinges so hopefully the door gaps will be good when back together. Should also mention I sand off the black primer in contact spots and paint with kbs rust proof. Like where braces sit. Hope this helps a bit






the cab corners i'm doing later after i have the bed removed.

[RANDY COX]

Yep that's what mine looked like when I got it the PO just covered it up with some tin and screws, course I knew that when I bought it, looks like you've jumped right in and tackled it..

[Alberta65]

Originally Posted by dracko

. I am by no means an expert, but just did similar rust repair on my passenger side and now starting the drivers side. similar rust.

I drilled out the floor/brace spot welds, then removed outer rocker, bottom of pillar, inner kick plate area and then the floor slightly less than my patch will cover. Leaving the rusty front brace as a locater for where the floor should fit. Cut new floor panel to fit then clamp the new floor/inner rocker panel at the rear where the old one was bolted (you'll see the holes) and clamp the front to the rotten floor brace you didn't cut out yet. That lines up the new panel. Once you have it spotted in you can cut out the old floor brace and replace it.

I also welded cross bracing in the cab and drilled holes through my door hinges so hopefully the door gaps will be good when back together. Should also mention I sand off the black primer in contact spots and paint with kbs rust proof. Like where braces sit. Hope this helps a bit






the cab corners i'm doing later after i have the bed removed.

Thank you sir! My truck at this point is turning into a full resto so it looks like I'll head over to the build thread and start a page. Thanks again to everyone who helped.

[cleanfreak]

All great advise here. Following Dracko's pictures , when the floor and braces are in place , the A and B pillars repaired , but before the rockers and cab corners are done , you can re-install the door , and adjust the A and B pillar for door gaps , that seems to be why they are bolted at the bottom. After the gaps are as good as you can get them , you could repair the cab corner , installing the rocker last ( pre-fitting along the way). Don't you just love rust?