Gauges?

[noclrnce]

I went through the search and didn't really get what I felt was a "solid" answer. I have an 83 k10. The only factory gauge that works is the fuel. A couple of the other gauges have some cheap aftermarket ones swapped out by previous owner. The temp one works the others don't. My truck is a manual so I thought Id look for a tach cluster and just replace it all and be done with it. From what I read 78 and up is what I will need? Some threads claim they are plug and play, some claim I have to re pin connectors. I dont have cruise control so that really wont bother me. What exactly will I need to do here?

[enaberif]

3 styles of gauges.

73-77? With the ammeter. 78-80 and then 81-87 if my memory serves me correct.

Differences also include font changes and coloring as well as idiot lights vs gauges. If you are using the entire cluster and bezel 73-80 will not fit correctly with 81-87.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by noclrnce

My truck is a manual so I thought Id look for a tach cluster and just replace it all and be done with it. From what I read 78 and up is what I will need? Some threads claim they are plug and play, some claim I have to re pin connectors.

Yes, for your 83, you'd want to look for a 78+ tach cluster. And if OE apperance is important, look for an 80+ one as the 78 & 79 still have the older style fonts.

When dealing with a 78+ cluster in a 78+ truck, the re-pin vs. plug & play is determined by what type of cluster is in the truck now. From your description, it sounds as though your truck has what's left of a factory Z53 gauge cluster even though someone has swapped in a couple aftermarket gauges. If that's the case (and the previous owner didn't mess with the original cluster wiring) then a 78+ tach cluster should be plug & play for you. Now, if your truck has the base warning light cluster (speedometer, fuel gauge, and warning lights for temp/oil/batt/etc.) then it will be necessary to re-pin to swap in any gauge cluster (with or without tach).

Originally Posted by enaberif

73-77? With the ammeter. 78-80 and then 81-87 if my memory serves me correct.

Close. 73-75 have an ammeter and mechanical oil pressure gauge. 76 & 77 have a voltmeter but still use the mechanical oil pressure gauge. 78+ have a voltmeter & electric oil pressure gauge.

[noclrnce]

Cool. Thanks for the the info. Looking on eBay they all say 73-87. How can I really tell what they came out of?

[ray_mcavoy]

You're welcome!

Yeah, unfortunately a lot of eBay sellers are evidently unaware of the yearly differences and list them as 73-87.

An ammeter "AMPS" gauge (instead of a voltmeter) located in the upper left corner is probably the easiest way to spot (and in your case rule out) a 73-75 cluster.

Similarly, a mechanical oil pressure gauge (instead of electric) can be used to spot (and in your case rule out) a 73-75 or 76-77 cluster. These are easy to spot if the seller has provided a photo showing the back of the cluster. Clusters with a mechanical oil gauge will have a hole in the plastic housing directly behind the gauge (and sometimes a section of tubing still attached). While 78+ clusters with an electric oil pressure gauge will have 3 electrical contacts on the printed circuit behind the gauge (from the back it looks pretty much the same as the temperature gauge).

Without a photo of the back, spotting a mechanical vs. electric gauge isn't quite as easy. But if the photos are good enough, you should be able to see a small stop pin protruding from the face of a mechanical oil pressure gauge that keeps the needle from going below zero. Electric oil pressure gauges don't have that stop pin and their needles don't always return to zero when powered off.

There is also a noticeable appearance difference between the faces on the 73-79 vs. 80+ gauges. Starting in 1980 (maybe even late 79), GM changed to a larger/bolder font on the gauges. At the same time the needles were changed from red/orange painted aluminum to more of a yellow/orange colored plastic.

Here is a good reference page that describes the various 73-87 tach clusters and has several example photos --> http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/inte...achometers.htm

As mentioned at the bottom of that page, these tachometers will sometimes read higher than normal or peg to the maximum when powered on. That is caused by a calibration resistor that has gone bad and is fairly easy to repair on the 78+ tachometers. If you come across one needing such a repair, here is a good reference --> http://howtoalmanac.com/kevin/projec...chfixtruck.htm