Disc brake conversion: Beating a dead horse

[jturner18]

Ok. I've read and read and read again the swap threads under the FAQs. HELP!!!
I have mutiple 73-87 trucks to choose from to do the swap. All of my front end on my 65 is completely worn out and I planned on replacing all of it anyway. So why would I take the components of the donor truck? Like tie rod ends, centerlink, rotors, calipers, etc...if I plan on replacing anyway. I do understand to get the brake booster, MC, PP, brake lines, etc..

From what I've read, and seen people do, tell me if this will work...

Take Brake booster, MC, PP, and all brake lines that I can get, along with steering gearbox, power steering pump, and hoses.
Order bracket for booster and gearbox from Captainfab (Ive read it is top notch).

Order 2.5 in drop spindles (6 lug) from XX that fit new upper and lower ball joints for a 73-87.

Why would I use the rotors and calipers and linkages (tie rod ends, centerlink, pitman/idler arms) from the donor?

Basically all I'm doing is ordering, per 73-87, upper/lower ball joints. Do I order, because I'm replacing anyway, the linkages (tie rod ends, center link, and pitman/idler arm) for a 73-87? Will it bolt up? Also, do I snag the 73-87 swaybar?

Sorry for so many questions but I'm ready to fix ol "Elbow Grease"!

Thanks,
JT

[T.W.Dustin]

I swapped in a 87 Suburban crossmember. I ordered new 6 lug rotors from Summit and put new pads on. I got the bracket from Captain Fab for the PS box. You can lower with kits but I am stock height. Very easy conversion. I also bought the power brake bracket from Captain Fab. It uses 88 and later (can't remember cut off date) booster. The 73-87 booster is not on the list of donors for his bracket.

[jturner18]

Originally Posted by T.W.Dustin

I swapped in a 87 Suburban crossmember. I ordered new 6 lug rotors from Summit and put new pads on. I got the bracket from Captain Fab for the PS box. You can lower with kits but I am stock height. Very easy conversion.

Forgot to mention...I'm keeping my cross member. My tie rod ends and all linkages are worn out so I plan on replacing. But I don't want to put on the donor linkages because it's coming from a junk yard. So when I replace, should I get 73-87 linkages (new) or go back with stock linkages?

[T.W.Dustin]

I am using everything from the donor Suburban - hub to hub with the exception of the rotors because the Suburban was 5 lug and I wanted to stay with 6 lug. PS box, all linkage, etc... This pic is before I finished mounting the sway bar. It's so easy to just bolt the whole thing up if the donor is in nice shape that I didn't even try to salvage my old crossmember and swap stuff over.

[jturner18]

Originally Posted by T.W.Dustin

I am using everything from the donor Suburban - hub to hub with the exception of the rotors because the Suburban was 5 lug and I wanted to stay with 6 lug. PS box, all linkage, etc... This pic is before I finished mounting the sway bar. It's so easy to just bolt the whole thing up if the donor is in nice shape that I didn't even try to salvage my old crossmember and swap stuff over.

Are you not concerned with the old linkages and calipers? I'm thinking they may be worn along with the ball joints.

[T.W.Dustin]

Originally Posted by jturner18

Are you not concerned with the old linkages and calipers? I'm thinking they may be worn along with the ball joints.

Mine are solid but this needs to be evaluated on a case by case basis. Worst case is something needs replacing and I just go to NAPA and get a '87 Suburban replacement. It's a no-brainer. If I want to lower it down the road, I buy the parts to lower an '87 Burb.

[T.W.Dustin]

I bought a whole frame stub (from firewall forward) for $200 or $250 from a guy in Tucson to do the swap. I used info on this forum to guide me along. There was minor drilling required as expected - most all of it lined right up with the old holes in the '64 frame.

[Captainfab]

There are 2 ways to go about what you are wanting to do.

One is to simply buy dropped spindles for a '63-'70 C10 along with your 6 lug rotors. Plus a pair of calipers and hoses. Then all the other parts you will need for the rebuild, ball joints, tierods, etc. will be for your '65 C10.

The second option would be to get your dropped spindles for a '73-'87 along with the 6 lug rotors. Then you will need ball joints , tie rods, etc. for a '73-'87. You will also have to use the '73-'87 draglink and drill the holes to mount the '73-'87 idler arm to the frame. Personally, I prefer the '73-'87 control arms with the rubber bushings.

The master cylinder and prop valve will need to be specific for a disc/drum braking system. One for a given year of '73-'87 will work. You will just have to be sure to plumb it correctly, The m,aster cylinders are not all the same as far as which port is front and which is rear brakes. For the booster, that will depend on how you wish to mount it to your firewall. If you use one of my booster brackets, there is a list of compatible boosters in post #183 on page 8 of the for sale thread. You do not have to use the master cylinder that comes on a given booster, if you don't want to. You just need to use one that is compatible.

[jturner18]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

There are 2 ways to go about what you are wanting to do.

One is to simply buy dropped spindles for a '63-'70 C10 along with your 6 lug rotors. Plus a pair of calipers and hoses. Then all the other parts you will need for the rebuild, ball joints, tierods, etc. will be for your '65 C10.

The second option would be to get your dropped spindles for a '73-'87 along with the 6 lug rotors. Then you will need ball joints , tie rods, etc. for a '73-'87. You will also have to use the '73-'87 draglink and drill the holes to mount the '73-'87 idler arm to the frame. Personally, I prefer the '73-'87 control arms with the rubber bushings.

The master cylinder and prop valve will need to be specific for a disc/drum braking system. One for a given year of '73-'87 will work. You will just have to be sure to plumb it correctly, The m,aster cylinders are not all the same as far as which port is front and which is rear brakes. For the booster, that will depend on how you wish to mount it to your firewall. If you use one of my booster brackets, there is a list of compatible boosters in post #183 on page 8 of the for sale thread. You do not have to use the master cylinder that comes on a given booster, if you don't want to. You just need to use one that is compatible.

Thanks Captainfab! I plan on going with option two. I'm going to pull drag link tie rod ends etc from donor and mock everything up in the shop to see if I need to replace any of it. I will use the A arms from donor and replace the bushings with urethane. And I'll definitely give you a shout when I'm ready to order my brackets (gearbox and booster) when I find out which one I've got. Thanks for all your help. I'm probably gonna need some advice when fabbing up the brake push rod and steering/coupler.

[66 C10 383]

Since you're going to tear everything apart, replace the lower control arm u-bolts!!! The older ones are smaller in diameter and have been known to break. New ones are all of the larger diameter and will need the holes in the frame enlarged to get the bigger u-bolts in.

[64shortbox]

jturner18,
Just a few thoughts - I did the swap from a 73 C-10. It wasn't that bad. Definitely get the steering box adapter and power brake booster adapter from Captianfab - as you stated Top Notch!! AND the power steering box adapter comes with a Fool Proof template - you can't go wrong. There's a post from BimmerDr about adding more caster - helpful with radials and especially if you go with wide radial tires. I'll see if I can find that link for you and post it. Also if you can get ALL the brake lines & proportioning valve from your donor truck. With just a little bit of tweaking you can actually use ALL of the brake lines on these 60-66 trucks. It looks factory when done. You will need to make a bracket for the proportioning valve though. Again I'll see if I can find pictures and the posts for you. Also believe it or not I have over $1000.00 into my swap & rebuild of the donor stuff but everything was either new or rebuilt. I installed new Poly bushings from Summit, rebuilt calipers & master cylinder from Auto Zone, 2 1/2" drop spindles from CPP, 6 lug rotors from CPP, new standard Moog springs (wish I got 2" drop springs) new Raybestos Professional Grade Ball Joints (Rock Auto) - do you want to trust your life on cheap ball joints? New inner & outer wheel bearings & even new dust caps. I didn't buy new tie rod ends or center link - they were good and easily replaced when/if needed. It adds up in a hurry. I used a standard size 73 C-10 Vacuum Booster but now wish I went with a smaller dual diaphragm booster from an older Astro Van or equivalent - it will still work with Captainfab's bracket. Oh I also picked up a 1 1/8" front sway bar from a 78 One Ton Dully at Pick N Pull. I also built a stand for the cross member of the donor suspension so I could assemble it, slide my floor jack inside it and jack the rebuilt assembly in place. Hope this info is of SOME help to you.

[64shortbox]

Here's some OLD pics of my install. The master cylinder bracket is Captianfab's an excellent piece as you can see. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of his Power steering box bracket but I can guarantee you it's just as nice. ALL of my hard brake lines are from a 73 C-10 NONE have been cut I did have to slightly tweak them to get them to line up but they look factory enough that you could probably convince some people that 64 C-10's actually came with Disc Brakes. The 73 proportioning valve is in the same location as a 73 C-10 but I did have to make a bracket to support it. The last picture is the front assembly ready to slide under the truck. Notice the 1 1/8" sway bar. You can also see the frame work I made to support the donor suspension while I assembled it. I made it just big enough so I could slide my floor jack inside it and use it to JACK the suspension into place. The same could be accomplished with some scrap wood though. With that big sway bar My truck handles great. Still trying to find the post about adding caster.

[jturner18]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

Here's some OLD pics of my install. The master cylinder bracket is Captianfab's an excellent piece as you can see. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of his Power steering box bracket but I can guarantee you it's just as nice. ALL of my hard brake lines are from a 73 C-10 NONE have been cut I did have to slightly tweak them to get them to line up but they look factory enough that you could probably convince some people that 64 C-10's actually came with Disc Brakes. The 73 proportioning valve is in the same location as a 73 C-10 but I did have to make a bracket to support it. The last picture is the front assembly ready to slide under the truck. Notice the 1 1/8" sway bar. You can also see the frame work I made to support the donor suspension while I assembled it. I made it just big enough so I could slide my floor jack inside it and use it to JACK the suspension into place. The same could be accomplished with some scrap wood though. With that big sway bar My truck handles great. Still trying to find the post about adding caster.

Awesome! Thanks for all your info. What booster and master are you using? I got the donor booster and master, but it's not the right type for Captainfabs bracket.

[jturner18]

And I did manage to get a big swaybar from a Burb at the yard.

[64shortbox]

More Pics. - The first picture is with the old suspension dropped out, frame rails cleaned & waiting paint. I went ahead and removed the motor & trans because I had numerous oil leaks to fix on the motor and trans. also wanted to clean & paint the engine compartment. The second picture - that oblong hole is factory and is the perfect spot to route the brake line out to the brake calipers. The third picture is the hard line running through th e frame for the rubber flex hose to the caliper. Notice the big nut on it. If I remember correctly it's a 5/8" N.F. jamb nut but you can use the stamped ones off your donor truck. The 4th picture is the flex hose running through the frame but it's backwards that part should be on the outside of the frame leading to the caliper - I was just test fitting it there to see if it would work OK. The 5th picture - remember when I said you might be able to convince some people that your C-10 actually came with Disc Brakes? This little mod would seal the deal. I did this to my 64 C-10 too but that's another story.

[jturner18]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

More Pics. - The first picture is with the old suspension dropped out, frame rails cleaned & waiting paint. I went ahead and removed the motor & trans because I had numerous oil leaks to fix on the motor and trans. also wanted to clean & paint the engine compartment. The second picture - that oblong hole is factory and is the perfect spot to route the brake line out to the brake calipers. The third picture is the hard line running through th e frame for the rubber flex hose to the caliper. Notice the big nut on it. If I remember correctly it's a 5/8" N.F. jamb nut but you can use the stamped ones off your donor truck. The 4th picture is the flex hose running through the frame but it's backwards that part should be on the outside of the frame leading to the caliper - I was just test fitting it there to see if it would work OK. The 5th picture - remember when I said you might be able to convince some people that your C-10 actually came with Disc Brakes? This little mod would seal the deal. I did this to my 64 C-10 too but that's another story.

Nice. What booster and master did you use?

[64shortbox]

jturner18,
The master cylinder is for a 73 C-10 $23.00 from Auto Zone - use your old master as a core. My vacuum booster came off an 83 C-10 if I remember correctly. The only reason I got that particular one is because the motor & steering column were gone from that particular truck making it easy to pull. I just cleaned & painted it. NOTE it has metric studs & nuts. The first picture is of the CPP 6 lug rotors/ Second picture is of the CPP 2 1/2" drop spindles. Third & 4th pictures are my stand I made to support the cross member while assembling it and to Jack it into place. That 5th picture - just a pic of my truck for that last Pic.

[64shortbox]

Here's that link I was telling you about. It goes into detail with pictures how it's done and what the benefits are for this no cost mod. It will bring your truck into the 21st century.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=adding+caster

[jturner18]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

More Pics. - The first picture is with the old suspension dropped out, frame rails cleaned & waiting paint. I went ahead and removed the motor & trans because I had numerous oil leaks to fix on the motor and trans. also wanted to clean & paint the engine compartment. The second picture - that oblong hole is factory and is the perfect spot to route the brake line out to the brake calipers. The third picture is the hard line running through th e frame for the rubber flex hose to the caliper. Notice the big nut on it. If I remember correctly it's a 5/8" N.F. jamb nut but you can use the stamped ones off your donor truck. The 4th picture is the flex hose running through the frame but it's backwards that part should be on the outside of the frame leading to the caliper - I was just test fitting it there to see if it would work OK. The 5th picture - remember when I said you might be able to convince some people that your C-10 actually came with Disc Brakes? This little mod would seal the deal. I did this to my 64 C-10 too but that's another story.

Nice touch on the brake pedal.