1970 K20 Lift Prep/Frame Mods?

[K20rookie]

Hey all...I'm at the point where I'm ready to take my frame down for sandblast and powder coat. Before I get that done, I want to make sure I'm not overlooking any modifications that may need to be done on the frame.

I'd like to lift the truck, maybe 2-4", and am considering the ORD shackle flip for the rear. http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm My understanding is the shackle flip offers a smoother ride and allows me to use my original rear springs which would keep my weight rating stock (I have other tow vehicles, so maybe weight rating shouldn't be a huge concern for this build). If I go the shackle flip route, I'll need to remove the old spring mounts and drill the frame holes out before powder coat. Anyone have any feedback on this setup? I don't plan on doing any serious wheeling or anything, just the occasional offroad/hunting trip. Would I be better off just doing new springs all around and leaving the stock spring mounts? Any other frame modification considerations I need to think about before powder coat? I'd hate to have it powder coated and then wish I would have done other frame mods first. Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

[Orange Crate]

I went with a 2" spring lift on my 72 K20 because there is no 2" shackle flip kit (looks to be 4" only for 67-72). The 4X4 frame is really very good in stock form. I have used mine similar to your suggestion and even had a 9.5' cab over camper on it for a year with no issues what so ever. If ORD has a 2" shackle flip now, it would save you some coin for sure.

[K20rookie]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

I went with a 2" spring lift on my 72 K20 because there is no 2" shackle flip kit (looks to be 4" only for 67-72). The 4X4 frame is really very good in stock form. I have used mine similar to your suggestion and even had a 9.5' cab over camper on it for a year with no issues what so ever. If ORD has a 2" shackle flip now, it would save you some coin for sure.

I thought they had a 2" shackle flip, but after calling them, they don't offer one for the 67-72 years, only 4". That helps narrow my choices down. Now I just need to decide which way to go: add-a-leaf, new springs, or blocks.

[msgross]

Rear blocks work fine for most guys. But for a 40 year old truck it wouldn't hurt to put a new set of springs all the way around. Add-a-leaf will stiffen them up even more and might not get the lift you need/want out of them.

[K20rookie]

Originally Posted by msgross

Rear blocks work fine for most guys. But for a 40 year old truck it wouldn't hurt to put a new set of springs all the way around. Add-a-leaf will stiffen them up even more and might not get the lift you need/want out of them.

I agree with you on this one. I'm just going to get new 4" springs all around. I've been told to go with Skyjacker or Superlift.

[b454rat]

Avoid either one if you want to keep your kidneys. Look into Tuff country, or if you don't mind spending some money, Alcans.

[special-K]

Do you want 2" or 4". Makes a big difference in options. For now, I'd say stay with the factory spring mount since there are plenty of good options for 4" or under using those.

I just did a 4" lift on my '72 GMC. I was going for cheap as possible and went with blocks on the rear. My springs are fine. But looking at the 4" blocks I just couldn't come to using them. They looked so tall. It didn't help that I came across a pair of 2" tapered cast blocks in my stash, so I did what I would rather have done anyway, and ordered add-a-leafs. Now I have a better hauler with reasonable blocks. I should have spent the additional $150 to have all 4 new springs, but I knew that ahead of time.

For the best ride for a reasonable price, go all spring with Tuff Country Easy-Rides: www.suspensionconnection.com

For cheapest price, go all spring with NTW's Suspension Special. Free shipping a big plus: www.ntwonline.com
They can't say what brand because it's below retail. It's good quality.

Back to spring capacity. I feel, for whatever reason, OEM springs were probably a better capacity spring than most lifts. Probably all in my head. But, the non-ride enhanced rear lift springs are truck springs of the same design. There's really no reason the same leaf count wouldn't be as HD as the OEMs. Plus, the stock weight capacity is based on compression shackles.

[K20rookie]

Originally Posted by special-K

Do you want 2" or 4". Makes a big difference in options. For now, I'd say stay with the factory spring mount since there are plenty of good options for 4" or under using those.

I just did a 4" lift on my '72 GMC. I was going for cheap as possible and went with blocks on the rear. My springs are fine. But looking at the 4" blocks I just couldn't come to using them. They looked so tall. It didn't help that I came across a pair of 2" tapered cast blocks in my stash, so I did what I would rather have done anyway, and ordered add-a-leafs. Now I have a better hauler with reasonable blocks. I should have spent the additional $150 to have all 4 new springs, but I knew that ahead of time.

For the best ride for a reasonable price, go all spring with Tuff Country Easy-Rides: www.suspensionconnection.com

For cheapest price, go all spring with NTW's Suspension Special. Free shipping a big plus: www.ntwonline.com
They can't say what brand because it's below retail. It's good quality.

Back to spring capacity. I feel, for whatever reason, OEM springs were probably a better capacity spring than most lifts. Probably all in my head. But, the non-ride enhanced rear lift springs are truck springs of the same design. There's really no reason the same leaf count wouldn't be as HD as the OEMs. Plus, the stock weight capacity is based on compression shackles.

I'm leaning towards a 4" lift. I'll check out Tuff Country. Thanks

[Wasted Income]

I'm super happy with the 4" Skyjacker Softride that I put on the K/10. Zero complaints, and my kidneys are still snugly in place

As for what to do to the frame, I didn't do anything special before I had the frame blasted and powdercoated. If you need to notch the frame for AC compressor or exhaust clearance, obviously do that now. Also try to drill any holes you may need before getting it coated....drilling holes in fresh PC makes me cringe.

[74CustomK20]

If only want 2" why not just longer shackles?

[kwmech]

Unless it is a show truck or a mall queen, don't waste your money with the powder coat. Everybody I know that did a powder coat on a driver or a wheeler was sorry after a couple of years. They get dinged and scratched. if you don't catch it, the frame can start rusting under the coating

[K20rookie]

Originally Posted by 74CustomK20

If only want 2" why not just longer shackles?

Decided to go with a 4" lift.

[K20rookie]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Unless it is a show truck or a mall queen, don't waste your money with the powder coat. Everybody I know that did a powder coat on a driver or a wheeler was sorry after a couple of years. They get dinged and scratched. if you don't catch it, the frame can start rusting under the coating

This is a concern I've had, and I hear mixed results. Some people haven't had any issues at all, some regret it. Paint is appealing because I would be able to make modifications, touch up, etc. I might consider having it painted instead. When I take it down for sandblast this weekend I'll talk to them about it.

[El Dorado Jim]

In my opinion, powder coating is tooo expensive, a good primer then paint would be good, then you could do any mods later and be able to paint it.I have a skyjacker soft ride 2" lift that rides real nice, blocks in the back, new springs in front.it is an ez ride kit, I have heard that tuff ccountry ez ride is real good too

[msgross]

Originally Posted by 74CustomK20

If only want 2" why not just longer shackles?

You can't get shackles that long anyways. You would need 4" longer, than stock, shackles to get 2" of lift. I did the add-a-leaf and ORD shackles on mine for 2"

[msgross]

Originally Posted by K20rookie

This is a concern I've had, and I hear mixed results. Some people haven't had any issues at all, some regret it. Paint is appealing because I would be able to make modifications, touch up, etc. I might consider having it painted instead. When I take it down for sandblast this weekend I'll talk to them about it.

I used this on my frame, get the IV resistant stuff, and you would think it was powder coat. It is so strong it had to wear off of my skin since nothing would take it off. http://www.masterseriesct.com/

I blasted the frame, used a foam brush for the sealer and then the paint. Super easy and cheap.